• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Stator Prognosis Needed

Gregory said:
Why wouldnt hooking it up the original factory way (minus the extra Yellow and White/Blue) keep it working without burning up the stator?

I remember running my other 78 back in the 80's without the light.
Click to expand...
The factory wired your 78 so that the headlight switch openned one loop of the stator output when headlight was off- this dropped the stator output considerably,so less heat was generated.
If you run with headlight on ,best to follow oldvet66's advice and wire the stator direct to a decent R/R-
 
ok, so, if I leave the extra yellow and white/blue disconnected.... AND I somehow accidentally turn the headlights off... how long till the stator fries?

AND other than the stator, do you have any idea what would cause my battery to only show 12.29 volts at idle AND at 4k RPMS?
 
That I couldn't tell you. I'm guessing it's not immediate. It's required by law to have it on all the time, so don't turn it off. Usually whatever beam you use most of the time goes first if it blows out (I always use the high beam in daylight), just switch to the other beam until you can get another replacement.
 
If the bulb burns out in the daytime, and you don't notice, how soon will things fry?

I run my bike with the light off quite often, as dirt roads will break a hot filament much quicker than a cool one. Sometimes I do it for the stealth aspect, sometimes I just forget to turn it on. Because of this I always left the stator loop going throughout the light switch. I know a lot of you guys remove it, have any of you had a headlight burn out and take the rest of the system down with it?
 
Last edited:
Gregory said:
ok, so, if I leave the extra yellow and white/blue disconnected.... AND I somehow accidentally turn the headlights off... how long till the stator fries?

AND other than the stator, do you have any idea what would cause my battery to only show 12.29 volts at idle AND at 4k RPMS?
Click to expand...
Poor connections? Have you tested the R/R yet? What R/R is currently on the bike?
 
tkent02 said:
Because of this I always left the stator loop going throughout the light switch...
So on the end of the bundle near the battery, are the two yellows and two white/blue connected?

There may be instances when I may want the light off.... and another switch to turn the brake light off also. Lets say, when I'm off road.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Gregory said:
tkent02 said:
Because of this I always left the stator loop going throughout the light switch...
There may be instances when I may want the light off.... and another switch to turn the brake light off also. Lets say, when I'm off road.
Click to expand...
Just use spade connectors joining the stator to R/R, that way if your headlight bulb burns out or you choose to run incognito, unplug one stator loop connector and you'll being doing the same thing the headlight switch did!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Hot / Cold filaments??

Hot / Cold filaments??

My first post to an existing thread.. In 1973-74 I worked in the engineering dept. of an automotive lighting company. We had a very noisy machine for vibration testing truck lights; there was certainly a difference between the life of a hot or cold filament, BUT it was the cold / off ones that failed way sooner; theory being that the filament was more ductile when hot, or more brittle when cold.
If you have a voltmeter and see it dropping below 13v or so. then losing your headlight can get you home, btdt with a Honda turbo..
Amazing some of the stupid stuff I remember, now what day is it??
Cheers

The 1150EF is ready for a ride tomorrow
Durham ON
 
Last edited:
Hey, you edited a post while I was typing! and my computer didn't like it.

Anyways, qcktvr said....."theory being that the filament was more ductile when hot, or more brittle when cold.
Amazing some of the stupid stuff I remember, now what day is it??"

That's my opinion too , and it's Saturday (I think)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top