Stator replacement questions

[jbs80106]

Hi all! Happy New Year! Finally getting around to doing this work on my bike and started with the 'easy' one, the stator. However, I have some questions that might save me some trouble....

Bike: its a 650G, 1982 vintage.

Status: Got the stator cover off (see pic). Trying by hand to get the screws out and haven't budged most of them yet. Got 1 of the screws that holds the stator on loose).

Question 1: I read in the forums a recommendation to use an impact screw-driver to get the phillips head screws out and to replace them with hex heads. Is that what I should do? (Doing it by hand is tough and impact driver might break them loose?).

Question 2: The directions with my Electrosport stator says to 'Cut the wires close to this grommet and pull the wires out'. Do I cut on the stator side or the engine side or doesn't it matter?

Question 3: directions say "feed the new stator wires through the holes in the original grommet....connect the bullet connectors of the connector block to the end of the wires." I don't think the wires on the new stator are long enough to route thru the grommet, thru the starter, behind the battery and to the connection point.

A) do these bullet connectors go on the ends of the wires so they'll attach where the current wires go into the plastic connection just by the battery?

B) what if the wires just aren't long enough to reach all the way? Where do I connect them?

This is my first forrey into bike mechanics so all help would be welcomed. Before anyone asks, I've bought a Clymer manual, it just says to remove the old stator, noting how the wires are run, and follow the reverse to install the new one.....great help!

 

[tkent02]

Impact is great...

Impact is great...

Question 1: I read in the forums a recommendation to use an impact screw-driver to get the phillips head screws out and to replace them with hex heads. Is that what I should do? (Doing it by hand is tough and impact driver might break them loose?).

An impact is made for this, place the cover over something solid enough to give a solid hit but soft enough to not damage the finish on the outside of the cover. Big hunk of wood with a layer of cloth or something??
Hex heads are always a nice improvement.

Question 2: The directions with my Electrosport stator says to 'Cut the wires close to this grommet and pull the wires out'. Do I cut on the stator side or the engine side or doesn't it matter?

Question 3: directions say "feed the new stator wires through the holes in the original grommet....connect the bullet connectors of the connector block to the end of the wires." I don't think the wires on the new stator are long enough to route thru the grommet, thru the starter, behind the battery and to the connection point.

Hard to say without seeing exactly what you have, but cut the wires as close to the stator as you can, in other words save as much of the original wires on the bike as you can for now. Put the new stator on and run the wires alongside the old ones temporarily, see how far they go.
If you need to make a splice, see if you can do it in a protected area, so the splice is not exposed to any weather.
And see if you can use a connector instead of a splice so it is easier next time.

 

[Steve]

DITTO all of the above.

Also, when you use the impact driver, make sure you use a bit that fits correctly. I don't remember if it's a #2 or a #3 bit that fits that screw, but there should be NO PLAY between the bit and the screw head.


.

 

[jbs80106]

thanks!

thanks!

Found out my helpful neighbor has an impact driver! Woohoo! I am going to try and cut several inches from the grommet inside the side-cover (protected from the weather) assuming I can peel back some of the black wire cover stuff. Once I cut the wire and get the entire assembly free I'll take it over to the neighbors to get the screws out.

Hopefully its easier from that point on...

cheers!

 

[mixongw]

For lack of an impact screwdriver, I used the proper size philips, applied all the counterclockwise torque I could do and tapped the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. After doing this two times, it came loose. The others came out without any additional help than the screwdriver.

 

[Eric Peterson]

For what it's worth, I just went through this last year with my '82 750--also with Electrex replacement. Getting the wires throught the grommet was the REAL hard part; and pulling the old actually tore some of the old wire, leaving it in the grommet for TRYING to pull later. Cut the old wires so that there's not much to pull through the grommet, and maybe try lubing them a bit before pulling. Soaking the grommet in hot water awhile to soften it helped me push the new ones through. I used new bullet connectors to wire the new stator, just as far as the new wires allowed, then I hooked into the old.
And I'd agree about the Clymer manual--didn't help me much either. The info posted on this site is much more thorough and user friendly; the instructions from Electrex helped finish the job.
Good Luck!!

 

[earlfor]

DITTO all of the above.

Also, when you use the impact driver, make sure you use a bit that fits correctly. I don't remember if it's a #2 or a #3 bit that fits that screw, but there should be NO PLAY between the bit and the screw head.


.

Its a #2 phillips. Or, should I call that a #2 Boondock? LMAO

E.

 

[Boondocks]

Its a #2 phillips. Or, should I call that a #2 Boondock? LMAO

E.

I'm honored that a screwdriver would be named for me and don't want to be picky, but I wish they had spelled my name correctly.:wink:

 

[eddiev]

I used a #3 with my impact driver and they came off easily. The screw heads look identical to the ones on the coils. When I first tried my driver with a #2 bit on the coil screws it instantly turned the philips into a complete circle. The #3 took the remaining screws out easily.

Regarding the grommet. The wires are difficult to pull through the old grommet. I think that's why they say to cut them close. If the wires won't pull through, soak the grommet in hot water and pull the wires one at a time with a plier. This is all just so you can reuse the grommet. The new wires are also difficult to push through. Strip them enough to pass through the grommet and then pull with pliers. Put a piece of tubing on first and feed it down to the stator, long enough to route to the point where the grommet will sit.

I haven't installed mine back on the bike yet but I agree that the wires seem much shorter. I think I may be splicing additional wire to them. Maybe splice the old wires on.

Hope it helps. Eddie V

 

[Road_Clam]

Replaced my stator last winter during my reso.

#1) do NOT substitute a hex bolt for the phillips. The hex will stick out too far, and is too close to the spinning crank rotor. I used socket head screws, they worked perfect, with adequate clearence.

#2) like others commented, it's a bi%$h to remove the 25 year old baked and bonded wires from the grommet. I just spent an hour using a thin scribe, and just worked the holes unti I was able to free the wires.

 

[twr1776]

I also replaced my stator last year and would suggest pulling the starter motor cover off to expose the wires and when you install the new stator you can route your wires through and pull any slack out if needed. The new electrex stator I used had enough wire to go up to the existing wires for connection but if your wires are not long enough you can also hide your splices under the cover if needed. I also slid off the new outer wire shield on the stator and took the grommet in from the end of the new wires (one at a time) and then pushed the wire shield in as far as it would go. I used new terminals and heat shrinked the connections. Heat shrink also helps to keep the connections from becoming loose. Tim

 

[jbs80106]

Update

Update

Thanks again for all the tips. I cut the wires as far into the cover side as I could to free the cover from the bike. Now I can take it to my neighbor's to get the stator out, will then install the new stator and see if the wires are long enough, if not, my neighbor (a really nice guy) said he can help me crimp(?) the wires together inside of the cover to protect them from the weather. We'll figure that out when we get there.

I need to go to the bike shop tomorrow for some longer bolts to put the R/R back on (replacing that too) and the existing bolts aren't long enough.

I've also noted some wear on the phillip's head screws. Almost seem to have been worked on with a too small screwdriver...but then again, maybe that's what size 3 screws look like (almost like a square head with some points on them to make them phillips).


interesting....

 

[twr1776]

If the screws look slightly bad you should replace them. I also used a little of the blue loctite on the screws during assembly. The socket head screws suggested by R/C might also be a good option if you can find them. When I did mine I also ran an additional ground off of the R/R as suggested by others on the forum and cleaned up and retightened the main ground wire from the battery. Since then I have had no charging issues.

 

[argonsagas]

DO use new bolts if you see any damage to the existing ones.

DO clean both the bolts and cover threads thoroughly.

DO use BLUE loctite/permatex/other thread locker.

DO be sure that any electrical connections you make inside the stator cover are secure in themselves, and that they can be held securely away from the rotor. There is almost no free space available, so everything must be done tightly or damage will follow very quickly.

It would be better to route the new wires up the starter and do any splicing there.


DO NOT use a RED thread locker.

 

[jbs80106]

removing old gasket residue

removing old gasket residue

Okay, with all your help I'm nearly there. I have the old stator removed from the side cover, and before I install the new one I want to get off all the bits of the old gasket adhered to it.

What do I do? I've tried gently with a razor blade to get off all the substantial pieces of the old gasket, but there is still a black film if you will around the edges of the side cover.

I tried a bit of 'goof-off' but didn't seem to really do anything...

:?

 

[Eric Peterson]

What I did might not have been the "incredibly experienced GS forum member solution", but it worked: I took as much off with razor blade as I could, then used a small sanding wheel (like the modeling kind Dremel makes) to carefully remove big pieces left, then by-hand fine sandpaper to smooth the edge. Right before reassembly with the new gasket I ran some fine steel wool around the edge and wiped every little bit of grit off I could.

Hope this helps!

 

[jbs80106]

UPDATE - Putting her back together

UPDATE - Putting her back together

Thanks again for all the help. Last night I put the new gasket in place, threaded the wires thru the hole into the starter area and secured the side cover in place with a couple of the screws.

Latest question is how tight to tighten the bolt for the side cover? I'm securing them with the blue loctite but recall reading not to over tighten them as they're going into the aluminum block.

My manual didn't seem to list torque settings for the bolts, should the tight...but TIGHT!!!

I'm using a ratchet to put them in and have tightenend them to reasonable hand strength but haven't leaned onto the ratchet with my body weight if that makes sense....

Cheers!

 

[twr1776]

Do NOT overtighten the case cover bolts. They are probably only 6 mm bolts and you can snap them off. My manual does not specifically give a torque for the case bolts but notes for all bolts of that size on the bike to go to 3 - 5 lb-ft. I did not use a torque wrench on mine. I used a 1/4" drive and just tightened them. I also would not use the blue loctite. I just used assembly lube and did not overtighten them. You probably know this already but when you tighten the bolts do it in a star pattern. Just sung them the first time,
check all around the case for good gasket contact and then go around again. I will snug slightly more the second time and then go around the third time with the final tighten. Happy charging

 

[jbs80106]

funny you shouldl mention it...

funny you shouldl mention it...

You mentioned to be careful to not overtight as the bolts can snap off...

I changed modes this evening and was reinstalling the battery holder bracket, tightend up on the first bolt and it just sheared off....fortunately I could just un do the broken off bit. I didn't torque it much...maybe just don't know my own strength!

I'll do the star patter and the multipass tightening. I really can 'see' much of my gasket round the outside of the side cover. I assumed it was just a good fit....

 

[twr1776]

I also have a tendency to overtighten. The aluminum threads are easy to strip and it also seems that the heat or age can make these old bolts brittle. Most of the time I replace the original bolts if I can. If you are doing a few other things the assembly lube/anti sieze is great stuff to use. I use it on about everything I re-install and it should keep corrosion out of the threads. On these bikes most steel bolts are in aluminum and it seems that the different materials oxidize together making them difficult to remove. I don't have any scientific proof but it sure seems that way.