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Stator replacement questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Andy
  • Start date Start date
A

Andy

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Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum. I own a 1983 GS550E with an electrical issue. I replaced the R/R recently with an aftermarket one when it was overcharging my battery. My mechanic warned me that the aftermarket might not last long but I couldn't afford the expensive OEM one. When my battery stopped charging a few months later I assumed I had another bad R/R. I asked a mechanic to replace the R/R with an OEM one which they did but they told me the stator is bad when I picked up the bike. I assume my aftermarket R/R is OK so I asked to keep it but I haven't tested it. The stator pages that everyone refers to are currently not up and running with the website changes but from what I have read on the forum it seems like the root cause may have been a bad connection and either or both devices can fail as a result. I suspect that is what happened and my stator was likely partially damaged when my original R/R fried and now it?s completely toast. I have a new stator but I think I need a new crankcase gasket before I proceed.

Do you need a puller or any special tools to replace the stator and can the crankcase gasket be reused or does it need to be replaced?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
No special tools needed. The stator will come off with the stator cover. Just a few Philips screws to remove it. The only thing I would recommend is the use of an impact screwdriver to get the screws broken loose. Cheap tool if you don't have one and handy to get those pesky case screws out as well.
 
Andy said:
Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum. I own a 1983 GS550E with an electrical issue. I replaced the R/R recently with an aftermarket one when it was overcharging my battery. My mechanic warned me that the aftermarket might not last long but I couldn't afford the expensive OEM one. When my battery stopped charging a few months later I assumed I had another bad R/R. I asked a mechanic to replace the R/R with an OEM one which they did but they told me the stator is bad when I picked up the bike. I assume my aftermarket R/R is OK so I asked to keep it but I haven't tested it. The stator pages that everyone refers to are currently not up and running with the website changes but from what I have read on the forum it seems like the root cause may have been a bad connection and either or both devices can fail as a result. I suspect that is what happened and my stator was likely partially damaged when my original R/R fried and now it’s completely toast. I have a new stator but I think I need a new crankcase gasket before I proceed.

Do you need a puller or any special tools to replace the stator and can the crankcase gasket be reused or does it need to be replaced?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

You should read GS Stator in my Signature. It will give you teh scoop on Series R/R's. If you are burning stators then you need to change. The most cost effective option is the SH-775. Looks for Steve's links posting most current sources and prices.

There is absolutely NO REASON to buy an OEM R/R.

Also read GS charging health.

To see where you stand on charging do the Quick test. All in my Signature.

BTW, your "mechanic" is not doing you any favors in evaluating your electrical problems.
 
"....BTW, your "mechanic" is not doing you any favors in evaluating your electrical problems."

the series r/r has not gone mainstream yet, lots of old inventory needs to be moved!
To OP, get the SH-775 - I experienced your situation. Got tired of replacing stators and decided to make the jump.
 
As stated earlier impact driver.
I had a heck of a time with mine.
posplayr info in his signature located in bottom left corner of his post.
Possibly Steve has a few tricks for removal?
I know he was rebuilding stators and a PM to him may help you along?
 
Make it easier on yourself and put the stator cover on a sandbag covered with a towel. It will shape to the cover, hold it in place and give you hands free for the impact driver and hammer. The screws are locked with what appears to be the insulating varnish for the stator wire. Make to use thread locking compound when you put it back together.
 
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Thanks for the advice. I will wait till I get a new gasket before I proceed. My mechanic hasn?t done me any favors at all!
Last time this bike was in the shop I got a new chain/sprocket plus the OEM R/R and my bill for parts and labor was $1000 - roughly what the bike is worth!
I wish I came across this forum earlier because I surely could have saved a few bucks. I have no issues troubleshooting electrical problems, it?s what I do for a living.
 
Andy said:
I have no issues troubleshooting electrical problems, it’s what I do for a living.
Click to expand...

Well I'm sure your background will put you in good stead, however there are some seemingly paradoxical characteristics that these Shunt R/R alternator systems have that bears some reading up on to fully appreciate.

The Shunt R/R stresses the stator (by shorting it's winding) to reduce the stator AC output to the charging system. Depending upon the bikes ability to take away this I^2R heat (speed, RPM,engine size, ambient temperature etc...) through cooling, the stators typically turn into crispy critters. This is no easy job for the R/R either and they often fail due to exaggerated thermal stress of doing the shunting.

Additionally, the systems operate in opposite to what you might think, the more load you put on the charging system the easier the stress on the stator and R/R. This is simply a consequence of the shunt architecture. For example if you switch to LED lighting you will likely push your charging system over the edge and burn the stator-r/r out very quickly owing to the reduced load you placed on it.

These long standing issues (that afflict 95% of all motorcycles that do not have a field controlled alternator) can be virtually eliminated by using a SERIES R/R. I provided the link (GS Stator) for more info)
 
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