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Stator Test Results

  • Thread starter Thread starter dbraz7
  • Start date Start date
D

dbraz7

Guest
My 1980 GS850G started to sputter, lose power and the electrical power was also sputtering off and on, then it stalled. Had no power for about 5 min then it came back, sputtered again then stalled. Waited 5 min then power came back, started and managed to make it home(2 KM). Checked the battery while running and it wasn't charging, just kept dropping. Battery is new.

Tested the stator and my results were: Ohm test .7 .6 .7 AC test revving engine, Positive to stator wire and negative to battery negative: 10.00v 13.00v 13.00v
Now it's supposed to be 0 right? I checked connections, cleaned fuse panel. Also the R/R wasn't connected.

I tested my R/R but its a aftermarket approx. 3 yrs. old( got the bike last summer) but I'm not sure if its a shunt style because according to my tests it failed. Tested it in the diode test position and it came up all 0's
I'm at loss, not sure what's not working. Here are some pics of the R/R. Your help is much appreciated!
20160422_163236.jpg On the back it reads: TMR541-1230
0233-CN
 
That's a pitiful shunt r/r - might work when connected to a good stator, but you seem to have noticed the stuff about series r/r's, so good time to get one!

As to your stator, test it like this Basscliff link (last page).. With stator disconnected from r/r. While doing that, also measure between one stator lead and bike ground. You want to see 0 volts or real close, indicating the stator windings are well insulated

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/stator_check.pdf
 
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dbraz7 said:
AC test revving engine, Positive to stator wire and negative to battery negative: 10.00v 13.00v 13.00v
Now it's supposed to be 0 right? I checked connections, cleaned fuse panel. Also the R/R wasn't connected.
Click to expand...

You need to check the voltages from each stator leg to each stator leg. At 5k RPM you should see close to 80V AC. So far your numbers look good but stator output is pretty critical.
 
You should do both leg to ground and leg to leg. As stated in stator pages leg to leg is. 80 vac at 5k. At same time leg ground should be 0vac. Stay on vac scale for all those tests
 
Test from leg to leg at 5000rpm were over 70vac but were not a consistent number. The test from leg to battery - were all negative -12.45vac -12.56vac and -10.50vac? Why are they negative, they should all be 0vac.
I cleaned all the connections that I could see and even the main ground on the engine and when a tested it again the voltage was up to 13.50 volts but no higher. The battery isn't charging though, when I test it with the bike off it keeps getting lower.
 
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dbraz7 said:
Test from leg to leg at 5000rpm were over 70vac but were not a consistent number. The test from leg to battery - were all negative -12.45vac -12.56vac and -10.50vac? Why are they negative, they should all be 0vac.
I cleaned all the connections that I could see and even the main ground on the engine and when a tested it again the voltage was up to 13.50 volts but no higher. The battery isn't charging though, when I test it with the bike off it keeps getting lower.
Click to expand...

There is no such thing as negative VAC, check your manual to see what that is supposed to indicate. If you did in fact have the meter on VAC then you probably have a bad stator. Unfortunately you seemed to have started with a final irrelevant tests and are progressing backways to the first (Quick ) tests and not doing that to completion to boot.

So my conclusion is justs change parts (stator) as you are having too difficult time doing any measurements.
 
dbraz7 said:
Test from leg to leg at 5000rpm were over 70vac but were not a consistent number.
Click to expand...

The over 70vac could be a good reading but how much over 70 and was the RPM constant? Did you disconnect the R/R when you did this test?

The test from leg to battery - were all negative -12.45vac -12.56vac and -10.50vac?
Click to expand...

Why did you test from leg to battery? Not really a valid test? The negative readings seem to indicate that your meter was in DC mode.
 
JTGS850GL said:
The over 70vac could be a good reading but how much over 70 and was the RPM constant? Did you disconnect the R/R when you did this test?



Why did you test from leg to battery? Not really a valid test? The negative readings seem to indicate that your meter was in DC mode.
Click to expand...

I think he indicated imbalance in the reading. Again we have a poster that ignores information that is very relevant because they think it is unimportant and then come with filtered information for help. :(


Leg to ground could be leg to case which is same as leg to battery ground strap to engine and/or battery(-). All the same thing especially when you see 5-10V is a threshold problem.
 
Here are my Phase A results: STEP#1 12.94v @ 2500rpm, 13.05v @ 500rpm STEP#2 1.4v STEP#3 .0001 v @500rpm The negative leads on the R/R are two green wires that are connected to the fuse panel ground.
 
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dbraz7 said:
Here are my Phase A results: STEP#1 12.94v @ 2500rpm, 13.05v @ 500rpm STEP#2 1.4v STEP#3 .0001 v @500rpm The negative leads on the R/R are two green wires that are connected to the fuse panel ground.
Click to expand...

500 or 5000 RPM?
 
dbraz7 said:
sorry 5000
Click to expand...

Add all three:

13.05v @ 500rpm
STEP#2 1.4v
STEP#3 .0001 v @500rpm
_______________________
14.4501V

Comes right up to what your regulator should be regulating to.

You have dirty conenctions on the plus side. Did you clean your fuse box?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?237763-Recommended-Products-for-Preparing-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=
 
I cleaned the connections but did not take the fuse clips apart. I'll do that as soon as I can. So STEP#3 is ok? The papers say less than .25v but its barely a reading on mine .0001?
 
Both reading ideally would be zero; 0.25v is basically the worst you would ever want to have. Less is better
 
Do you think the R/R ground is good enough? I was reading your post about a single point ground from the R/R and the possibility of the R/R not charging the battery properly. I noticed after cleaning most of the visible connections it charging more than before.

Thanks for your help!
 
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