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Stator?

  • Thread starter Thread starter aeholton
  • Start date Start date
A

aeholton

Guest
My wife's GS300L's battery died on our Christmas day ride.

First, let me say that I read the "Stator Papers". I started following the fault finding chart.

When I check resistance between leads from the stator, I get 1.1 to .9 ohms (normal).

When I read resistance between each wire from the stator to the engine case, I get .9 ohms (indicating a short to ground?). According to the flow chart I have a bad stator.

Just for grins I measured the ac voltage between each 2 legs of the stator. I still get 60+ Vac when I measure between any 2 of the 3 legs with the engine revved.

Am I still looking at a bad stator?
 
The stator has three legs. What happened to the third?

Edit: just reread your post. If you get 60 volts on each of three legs of the stator, the stator is okay. Please check the grounding of your R/R - it's best to run the ground direct to the battery and then check charging system voltage.
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
The stator has three legs. What happened to the third?

Edit: just reread your post. If you get 60 volts on each of three legs of the stator, the stator is okay. Please check the grounding of your R/R - it's best to run the ground direct to the battery and then check charging system voltage.
Click to expand...

Ed,
All unloaded stator tests can only confirm failure. No unloaded test can confirm the stator is good. The test to ground of 0.9 ohms does indicate a bad stator and it probably is bad as it is shorted.

If OP failed Phase A of the tests and the above test stator is likely out. Swapping the R/R with know good woudl confirm.
Jim
 
Also check the stator wires where they go thru the engine for a short. Internal short ? It's time for a replacement
 
posplayr said:
Ed,
All unloaded stator tests can only confirm failure. No unloaded test can confirm the stator is good. The test to ground of 0.9 ohms does indicate a bad stator and it probably is bad as it is shorted.

If OP failed Phase A of the tests and the above test stator is likely out. Swapping the R/R with know good woudl confirm.
Jim
Click to expand...

One thing I wasn't clear about from the testing procedure was whether to read the ac voltages across the pairs of legs from the stator with the connector attached to the RR. The 60+ Vac was with the connector disconnected from the RR. I only read 14-15 vac across them with them connected to the RR.

I don't have a known good RR, I was trying to save $$$ only order what is bad. If you are saying it could still be the RR, maybe I should replace both. The bike appears to have an aftermarket RR with large fins like the one on ebay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLT...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1071wt_935
 
That RR on Ebay is not as reliable as the Honda RRs I offer, I had one similar on my GS when I bought it and it shorted internally. If you want a good RR I offer a Honda RR kit for the GS for 45 dollars delivered.

I've sold a few hundred already. PM me for ordering details.
 
duaneage said:
That RR on Ebay is not as reliable as the Honda RRs I offer, I had one similar on my GS when I bought it and it shorted internally. If you want a good RR I offer a Honda RR kit for the GS for 45 dollars delivered.

I've sold a few hundred already. PM me for ordering details.
Click to expand...

PM sent. Thanks. At that price I will replace both.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. aeholton,

Yes, that stator short to ground is pretty serious. I suspect the stator too. And you can't go wrong buying one of Mr. duaneage's r/r units. He's a great guy to deal with. At this time, Rick's Electrics is my favorite stator. If you want to go all-out big bucks for the r/r unit, the Compufire (series regulator/rectifier) unit is great, but really pricey. Let me share some more GS lovin'... :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....:)

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
aeholton said:
One thing I wasn't clear about from the testing procedure was whether to read the ac voltages across the pairs of legs from the stator with the connector attached to the RR. ...
....
....
Click to expand...

Check voltage with the stator disconnected.
Is called an "open circuit" voltage test.

The ohm check should be done also with stator disconnected.


.
 
Thanks, the ohm test was performed disconnected.

BassCliff - Thank you for the warm welcome. I actually visited your website over the weekend after searching stator issues here. Very informative.
 
Last edited:
Update: Changed stator, battery now charging. Problem fixed. I still will install the R/R from Duaneage when it arrives. Thank you for all the help.
 
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