Stator?

[Rob S.]

I keep reading about stator and charging system problems on the old GS's. Mine has performed without problems since I brought her home five months ago.

When I finally got to my battery (not an easy thing on an 1100EZ), I found no vent tube and a few low levels. I corrected both situations and bought (and used) a trickle charger, even though the bike has shown no signs of needing one.

I'm fairly certain I'm going to read more than a few posts telling me to upgrade or replace the regulator or rectifier or stator. Not at this point. It ain't broke.

But I would like to understand more. I'll tell you what I know (believe) now, and then I'd like to be corrected, possibly told what the first symptoms of problems might be from this system that I keep reading has been poorly designed.

The stator is stationary, inside the right (or left?) engine cover. Something spins inside it, creating (A/C) juice. The rectifier changes it to direct current, the regulator limits the (voltage?) from getting too high before sending it to the battery.

Without getting too technical, is that correct?

Are the rectifier and regulator housed in one unit? Is that the part that fails, that was poorly designed?

Are the symptoms of it failing simply a dead or weak battery?

The battery sends power to the coils, which create the spark for the plugs?

 

[Steve]

The stator is stationary, inside the right (or left?) engine cover. Something spins inside it, creating (A/C) juice. The rectifier changes it to direct current, the regulator limits the (voltage?) from getting too high before sending it to the battery.

Without getting too technical, is that correct?

Yes.

Are the rectifier and regulator housed in one unit?

Yes.

Is that the part that fails, that was poorly designed?

Sometimes. It is not always the failure point. It was well-designed, but poorly executed. There are many upgrades available.

Are the symptoms of it failing simply a dead or weak battery?

That is usually the one that gets your attention. Sometimes by not starting when you want to go for a ride, but also happens on a long ride, by dimming the headlight (possibly losing it altogether) or killing the engine. Hopefully, those will not happen in the middle of a dark curve.

The battery sends power to the coils, which create the spark for the plugs?

Yes.

.

 

[tkent02]

Don't remember which bike you have. The early ones had a separate rectifier and regulator. After '79 or '80 they were all one unit.

It was well-designed, but poorly executed. There are many upgrades available.

Poorly executed as in it can't take a lot of corrosion in the wiring and connectors. Other than that it's fine. Corrosion makes resistance, makes heat in the connectors, they melt, the wires inside short together, then all Hell breaks loose. Result is usually a fried stator and RR, and bike parked for a decade or so.

I'm still waiting for my first GS electrical failure. Something like 200,000 - 250,000 miles on something like 50 GSes.

I have bought a few dead bikes with dead charging systems, on each the connections were corroded, bad wires, just a neglected mess. Bought several with charging issures, but they were all easy to fix. Every GS I get I go through the entire system, clean every connector, clean up the grounds, add the extra one from the RR, then test everything. Of those that have passed the tests none have ever failed. Ever.

That said, I'm thinking of going with the new series style regulator on my new 550. Why push my luck?

 

[Rob S.]

Thanks for the info, guys

I'll do some reading, ponder and then ask more.

1982 1100e

 

[posplayr]

Don't remember which bike you have. The early ones had a separate rectifier and regulator. After '79 or '80 they were all one unit.



Poorly executed as in it can't take a lot of corrosion in the wiring and connectors. Other than that it's fine. Corrosion makes resistance, makes heat in the connectors, they melt, the wires inside short together, then all Hell breaks loose. Result is usually a fried stator and RR, and bike parked for a decade or so.

I'm still waiting for my first GS electrical failure. Something like 200,000 - 250,000 miles on something like 50 GSes.

I have bought a few dead bikes with dead charging systems, on each the connections were corroded, bad wires, just a neglected mess. Bought several with charging issures, but they were all easy to fix. Every GS I get I go through the entire system, clean every connector, clean up the grounds, add the extra one from the RR, then test everything. Of those that have passed the tests none have ever failed. Ever.

That said, I'm thinking of going with the new series style regulator on my new 550. Why push my luck?

How many 1100/1150's have been in that pack and how many mikes?

 

[tkent02]

How many 1100/1150's have been in that pack and how many mikes?

No 1150s, two 1100Es, 3 or 4 1100Gs and GKs. None of the bikes were named Mike.


Are some models worse than others? I thought they were pretty much all the same other than 12 - 18 pole stators, the headlight switch loop, the fuses and the separate regulators and rectifiers?

 

[Rob S.]

Posplayr, I'm interested to hear your take on the matter because I know you started with the same model I have, just one year newer. I know you've substantially modified yours, and I'm jealous. But..

I just saw a pic of yours lying in a road-side ditch with some state police types standing over it. What happened?

If you could read my original post, I'm interested in your knowledge and opinions.

 

[posplayr]

No 1150s, two 1100Es, 3 or 4 1100Gs and GKs. None of the bikes were named Mike.


Are some models worse than others? I thought they were pretty much all the same other than 12 - 18 pole stators, the headlight switch loop, the fuses and the separate regulators and rectifiers?

It is about heat, the bigger bikes get bigger temperature drops from the Series R/R and the stators in those bikes are more linkly to burn.

I tuned a stator brown in 250 miles with a MOSFET shunt R/R. I don't know much about the 8 V engines, maybe they don't get as hot as the 16V bikes.

 

[tkent02]

I know they are a lot cooler around the head, they have more room for airflow to the cooling fins there. Don't know if the oil runs any cooler, but I bet maybe it does.

 

[posplayr]

Posplayr, I'm interested to hear your take on the matter because I know you started with the same model I have, just one year newer. I know you've substantially modified yours, and I'm jealous. But..

I just saw a pic of yours lying in a road-side ditch with some state police types standing over it. What happened?

If you could read my original post, I'm interested in your knowledge and opinions.

The bike is back together for a couple of more years now; it is now has a red paint job instead of the orange. There was a thread but it must have been under Discussion which gets wiped out. A picture of the tire marks is attached. Forestry (SUV) truck just filled up the road on this little blind curve. I did what I could to avoid going into his windshield.

He did not stop till I had passed him riding on three points

Actually that was Dec 4, 2010 so it has been over three years.

There are plenty of explanation, discussion and data on R/R and electrical in the links in my signature.

If you have an 1100E I would definitely just bite that little bullet and get the SH-775.

 

[koolaid_kid]

I remember the thread well. Most unfortunate.
Rob S., just get the series R/R.

 

[Rob S.]

Just went to the roadstercycle site, looks do-able, but I'd like to understand better.

You guys call the replacement units (SH775) series. Does that mean the original one in my 1100EZ is parallel?

What is series? Rectifier, regulator, both or the relation between the two?

As you can tell, I didn't pay much attention in shop class. Hell, it was almost half a century ago! I think I built a tube tester.

 

[posplayr]

Just went to the roadstercycle site, looks do-able, but I'd like to understand better.

You guys call the replacement units (SH775) series. Does that mean the original one in my 1100EZ is parallel?

What is series? Rectifier, regulator, both or the relation between the two?

As you can tell, I didn't pay much attention in shop class. Hell, it was almost half a century ago! I think I built a tube tester.

I'm a little behind, I took shop class in 73. here are three links below, but the HTML is not separating them.

Read about Charging Quick Test GS Charging Health GS Stator

 

[tom203]

After you're done reading that, head to wiki and look for linear regulator

"Linear regulators may place the regulating device between the source and the regulated load ( a series regulator), or may place the regulating device in parallel with the load (shunt regulator). "

Just get a series R/R and improve your odds- these bikes don't seem to run well with a failed charging system

 

[posplayr]

After you're done reading that, head to wiki and look for linear regulator

"Linear regulators may place the regulating device between the source and the regulated load ( a series regulator), or may place the regulating device in parallel with the load (shunt regulator). "

Just get a series R/R and improve your odds- these bikes don't seem to run well with a failed charging system

I don't remember where but I described and compared traditional Linear/Shunt regulation and Series PWM (chopper) regulation with the PM SHUNT regulators and PM Series regulators. They are not all the same thing and reading Wiki would lead to confusion if you did not already know what all these things are or already know they are not what is on a motorcycle.

 

[Rob S.]

Linear vs switching regulators

Linear vs switching regulators

I started with Wiki, makes sense so far.

A linear can only lower voltage, correct? Can I assume then that a switching regulator can lower and raise voltage?

If the above is true, then at idle or low rpms is the voltage still so high that the R/R has to lower it? Stock 1100EZ is linear? Is the voltage ever so low that the linear just passes it through to the battery?

 

[posplayr]

I started with Wiki, makes sense so far.

A linear can only lower voltage, correct? Can I assume then that a switching regulator can lower and raise voltage?

If the above is true, then at idle or low rpms is the voltage still so high that the R/R has to lower it? Stock 1100EZ is linear? Is the voltage ever so low that the linear just passes it through to the battery?

As I posted above, Wiki will get you confused in that it doesn't apply. The SERIES R/R has no energy storage element and can not step up as some switchers can.

Read this.....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1232396&postcount=2

 

[tkent02]

Got one. used that price list, called the local motorcycle - ATV - Snowmobile - gun shop and they matched the best price, even lowered it more so the sales tax made it even.
Should be there in a couple days.