Steps I need to follow

[cowboyup3371]

Along with replacing the chain and sprockets as well as shocks, springs, and upgrading my fuse block, I'd like to repaint parts of my bike. I already know the plan I'll follow when I strip, rebondo, prime, and paint the tank and side covers but I'm unsure how I should do some other parts. I do know I need to get some of the rust off and will try some electrolysis after I get a few things I don't have (rod and bucket to use).

If I'm wanting to repaint the calipers, sprocket cover, stator cover, foot peg mounts, chain guard, and points cover, are these the steps I need to follow? Do I have to do all or am I forgetting something?

1. Strip existing aluminum paint from parts - this is the one I'm not sure of
2. Spray etching primer on?
3. Spray with new color - will probably use caliper paint
4. Sand
5. Clearcoat
6. Cure in oven
7. Polish and buff?

Since I am going to do a rattle can job on these (tank and side covers will be with a gun), can I do it inside the house if I lay down plastic sheets to cover everything it might overspray onto? Should I still create some kind of a hook system to hold each one while I paint them?

Sorry for all the questions here but I haven't painted much else than wood before so I'm not keen on what i am doing. I know I can do it but I'm nervous about starting out; once the first piece is done I'll be okay.

THank you.

 

[Ranger]

Are you going to drape plastic from the ceiling too and make a good painting environment with air circulating?

I used valspar paint for most of my stuff with a rustoleum 500 degree and fuel resitant clear coat and it came out good..

There's a post here somewhere I was looking at about plastic painting. You're going to want to sand prior to painting anyways so the paint can adhear to not just the orange peel affect that type of primer till give it

 

[cowboyup3371]

I'm already planning on that for the side covers Ranger but I'm more curious about how to do the sprocket cover, stator cover, and the like.

 

[tkent02]

I'm already planning on that for the side covers Ranger but I'm more curious about how to do the sprocket cover, stator cover, and the like.

Powder coat?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Tight pocket book Tom so I'm looking at doing it myself. But I can try talking to a set of folks around here again.

 

[Ranger]

Well what kind of look are you going for, original on the covers or custom?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Thinking custom which is why I'm wanting to verify what I need to do if I paint it myself.

 

[Ranger]

Depends on what color you want

 

[Ranger]

Heres what I did with all mine, came out great.

1) Wire brush the entire area
2) Clean with a mild solvent and wash off completely and allow to dry
3) Apply a coat of Zinc Chromate (This acts like a base coat primer. Zine Chromate is available at major manufacturers)
4) Apply your choice of an alkyd/enamel (2 coats) Allow atleast 12 hours before re-coat.

This is much better than the primer most people recommend, especially when its black and you're going for a lighter look or dont want any shadow affect or darkend areas.

 

[cowboyup3371]

We posted at the same time..


I assume the wire brush just roughed it up a bit to get the new stuff to stick correctly?

 

[tkent02]

Tight pocket book Tom so I'm looking at doing it myself. But I can try talking to a set of folks around here again.

Talk to me, Goose!
I am still planning on getting set up to do some powder coating, the oven is the hard part but your case covers will fit in the big toaster oven just fine.
Easy stuff. Maybe sometime in January I'll have time to do it. I have a butt load or carburetors, engine parts, etc. to practice on.

 

[Ranger]

Actually you posted sooner than me, different time zones haha.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Tom, call me please...719-478-5535 or on my cell (you already have that number) when you have time.

 

[tkent02]

Tom, call me please...719-478-5535 or on my cell (you already have that number) when you have time.

Like right now, for instance?

 

[cowboyup3371]

That's fine...number up there is easiest since the cell is off.

 

[cowboyup3371]

So to get the other part of the question answered...is this something I can do in the house without too big of an issue? Weather for the next several days is in the upper 40s to mid 50s outside with nights dipping down to the teens and 20s. I would like to get this done so I'm not waiting all winter to do something on the bike. I'm thinking paint it inside and then find a toaster oven to cure it once dried. Will there be any health issues for the kids with me spraying it as long as I lay plastic down to cover the rug? We keep the inside around 75 so I know air temp wise I'd be okay.

I don't have a garage and the air temp in the sheds will be about what outside temp is so maybe low 50s

 

[850GT_Rider]

I would NEVER spray paint in the house. Not only are the paints themselves volatile, the propellants are often gasses like butane. You simply cannot predict the path the fumes will take. It may smell just "strong' in the area where you're painting - meanwhile explosive fumes are migrating toward the pilot on the water heater, or the oven, or simply static electricity generated by walking across the rug. This time of year, the heat in the house is drying everything out, raising the possibility of a static charge tenfold.

I'm a former firefighter, and my son-in-law is currently on a department up here. I speak from first hand experience - DO NOT underestimate this hazard!

Paint only in well-ventilated areas, away from ignition sources. The labels on the paint cans do not lie......

 

[ddaniels]

Ditto! My best friend almost killed himself spraying laquer in his basement without ventilation. He had to go through an intense detoxification process to get it all out of his system. Please be careful.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Understood. I'm going to go out to the Army post here in town that has paint booths in their auto hobby shop tomorrow to look it over. If I can do it there without costing me too much than I will otherwise I'll try it out in the shed.

Thanks for the information.

 

[cowboyup3371]

So I finally started the painting process by stripping a couple of parts today. Although I read the can before starting and was told by some folks, I thought I could still open the stripper inside the house, pour it into my working can, and then go outside to do the job. Yea, right! I'll never do that again. Even with a mask on that smell was enough to knock me over . Trust me, if you ever use aircraft stripper get your butt outside ASAP!

So, I started the work around 2 or 230 when it finally reached this:

The sad part is that thermometer isn't particularly accurate and weather.com said it was running about 4 or 5 degrees cooler. But I was able to get started using a work table I have. I first did the sprocket cover:

but not much came off of it.

Sorry I don't have a plastic scraper but I was told this one would do just as well. I am thinking though I'll get one next payday.

After that I started on the swingarm that I cleaned it up earlier last week.

After the first time through on the top side I got it looking like this:

I got some more on the second time around but still not enough so I'll do a third shot later this week or next weekend.

Once that is done i'll start on the bottom side. I just hope I can do a good enough job so the painting turns out nice. Course if i mess it up I can always restrip it, right?