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Stock Airbox VS serate carb filter.

  • Thread starter Thread starter griggi63
  • Start date Start date
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griggi63

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I have an 81 GS750L and am considering removing the airfilter (under my seat) and the airbox off the carbs and replacing them with 4 separate air filters...my thinking is more air better for the motor and also gives me a little space under the seat for storage. Does anyone know if this is a bad idea? Give me your thoughts, this is my first GS and just got it a month ago....
 
Many many threads about this subject. You might want to try a search for LOTS of information.

Short answer, you will have to rejet the carbs. Big pain for very little power gain.
 
Or you can go with the short answer---DON'T!!! Leave it stock,it just ain't worth it. (just a fool's humble opinion. Do what ya wanna do-it's your bike. hehe.)
 
well the hole rejetting the carbs thing sounds like and expensive pain...i didn't realize that would need to be done....guess i should just leave well enough alone....she runs real good, just has a cam chain rap at times....(at least thats what i was told it was). I was told by the old owner that cam chain tensioner is automatic and that it cant be adjusted, so i bought a clymers manual for it, and now i'm more confused. was considering taking it off to see if maybe its just stuck and some dissassembly and cleaning might make it work....whadya think?
 
The inner mysteries of the cam chain tensioner are revealed here (yours might look a little different, but the instructions and the way it works are the same):
http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

And I agree wholeheartedly -- ditching the airbox is a big mistake and a larger pain in the rear than you can ever imagine. "More air" will simply make your engine run lean, which means it will run hot and run like crap if it runs at all. Many GS models won't even start or idle without the airbox.

Like many things in life, a sweet-running bike is all about balance and timing (the delicate dance of oxygen, gasoline, compression and spark), not just "more". With the stock exhaust, stick to the stock airbox and filter.

If you're also fitting a performance exhaust, running pods and rejetting can sometimes increase horsepower, often at the expense of smooth drivability, but you'll need to resign yourself to swapping jets until your fingers bleed. CV carbs (used on all 1980+ models) can be especially difficult to rejet if you're operating blind.

There are a few models where a documented recipe exists -- someone at Dynojet or similar has gone through the painful development and testing process for you, so you can fit a certain jet kit with a certain exhaust and achieve known results. There's usually still some fine-tuning and finagling involved to get the individual bike set up correctly.
 
Hey thanks for the link on the cam tensioner...very helpful...going to attempt that one after i get the parts. is it absolutely necessary to remove the carbs? that prospect frightens me a little. I just got in my parts from Ricks (stator and rectifier)....going to be doing them hopefully this weekend ( i just keep the bike on a tender every couple of days). You guys are incredible...thanks for all the advice.
 
Don't do it.

The airbox holds the weight of the carbs at the rear where the 'manifold' rubbers hold the front. Without the rear sections more pressure is put on the front rubbers and the carbs start to drop because of the vibration.

Suzuki mad.
 
Don't do it.

The airbox holds the weight of the carbs at the rear where the 'manifold' rubbers hold the front. Without the rear sections more pressure is put on the front rubbers and the carbs start to drop because of the vibration.

Suzuki mad.

A good point that is often overlooked.
The inlet boots (head to carbs) are supporting the weight of the carbs and the individual filters. If you must run pods, drop a bracket from the frame to the rear of the carbs to support their weight. Those front boots are expected to do a lot of support without a rear bracket and they will sag, eventually causing air leaks.
 
I tied my carbs to the frame with christmas ribbon. But MAN my bike runs like a mother ******.
If you were going to go with K&N pods you should get a Vance and Hines 4-1 pipe so you can add way more gas to the air with the Dynojet stage 3 kit. It's takes a little while to get it jetted or you might get it right the first time.
Or keep it stock with no fun playing with your bike.
 
well i actually wasnt looking to get more power from her, i think she shi** and gits pretty good the way she is. I was just looking to have a little storage under the seat and thought throwing the air filter pods on was a quick easy fix. didn't realize there was so much involved. Rather than mess with the carbs and have to dyno and jet it and get new exhaust, i think i'll leave her the way she is....someone told me once....if it ain't broke...don't fix it. just need to fix my charging problem, get rid of the cam rattle and pretty her up and i think it'll be ok.
 
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