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Storage prep.orage t

  • Thread starter Thread starter sandrael
  • Start date Start date
S

sandrael

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Hello everybody, I know that there are threads that have discussed most of storage prep, but I still trying to figure out best way to go about carbs, drain or full of gas with Stabil? Some people say that if drained everything dries out, does it gunk up when stabil is in fuel?

Also I might want to change engine gaskets while in will be storage time, does that affect the way I will be storing it?

Oh and of course my bike is 1982 GS650E,
Thank you everybody!
 
Even if you are doing a top end rebuild, still run the stabil through the carbs and then place them on the shelf while you work on the rest.
 
I discovered that Sta-bil comes in two different kinds. For fuel with ethanol you have to look for the blue colored one.
 
I treat with Sta-bil and leave the treated gas in the carbs. I usually double the dose, fill the tank then park the bike.

In spite of the ethanol that is everywere here, I have not yet looked for, or tried, the blue Sta-bil. The red stuff works for me.

.
 
I'm with Steve. For the last 14 years, I've added a red Sta-Bil to the last tank or two before storing the bike. Top off the tank with gas and I don't drain the carb bowls. Lastly, I do a fresh oil change. Never had an issue come spring.
 
Stabil rules! I have never seen blue stuff red works fine but maybe not fore e85 if that actually exists.
 
STA-BIL_PressRelease.jpg


http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/sta-bil
 
I fill the tank, and either drain the carbs, or I pull and plug the vacuum line to the petcock, then run it until it won't run. I've used Stabil, but I usually never ran it to get it into the carbs. Draining is easy, except where I have an oil cooler, and hoses are in the way. I have experienced stuck floats after refilling drained carbs, but a nice whack to the float bowls has fixed it.
 
If you are going to store the bike for several months, I would pop the plugs and oil fog the cylinders. Then once a month or so, turn the engine over by hand to change the position of the pistons and valves. How may you ask? Pull the plugs and place the bike in high gear and just grab the rear wheel and rotate it a few times.
 
Thanks to all of your replies guys, I just added double the dose of stabil and took her for a ride around the block for like 10 minutes and then topped off with gas till tank is full.

Will that do the trick? Is 10 minutes good enough for stabil to get into carbs?

BTW sorry for the thread topic name, I don't know how that happened :)
 
10 minutes should be fine. It takes less time than that to run them dry. I'm planning on cutting a slot part way up the drain plug bolts, so they can drain without removing the bolts all the way. They are hard to replace when there are oil cooler lines below them.
 
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I have never used Stabil. If my bike rarely goes two weeks without at least a ten mile ride (year round), do I need to?
 
I'm planning on cutting a slot part way up the drain plug bolts, so they can drain without removing the bolts all the way.
Suzuki beat you to it, but they put the slots in the sides of the bowl threads.

Just loosen the bolts enough to release the o-rings, fuel will flow (OK, dribble) out.

.
 
I have never used Stabil. If my bike rarely goes two weeks without at least a ten mile ride (year round), do I need to?

A ten mile ride doesn't even really get the bike or rather the oil up to temp. More like a 20+ mile ride is better. Colder the weather the longer the ride needs to be. Anyways, you should be using an ethanol treatment in your gas as it is. Prevents gumming even when it sets for a couple weeks. I pour about 2-3 ounces of Lucas ethanol treatment in my tank when I fill up after a ride. I always keep my tank full when it's setting.
 
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