Straightening front wheel

[Colin Green]

Hi all,

My front wheel and guard are out of alignment with the handle bars.

I have tried loosening the clamps to the forks on both upper and lower clamp sets and loosened the upper clamp to the center pivot point (whatever you call that) but still cant seem to budge the wheel/bar alignment.

The centre nut on the top of the center thingy appears to be an odd size between 7/8 and 13/16 and I can't loosen it.

How the hell do you realign the triple clamp???

Cheers

 

[Guest]

mate, i've read a lot of stuff on this forum but never came accross something like that :-s
lets wait for more knowlegeable to turn the light on

 

[Guest]

Loosening the center pivot point should not make a difference, as the top and bottom move freely in relation to one another when the forks aren't there. Try loosening the top and bottom fork clamps, the fender (or remove it while adjusting), and also loosening the axle nut.

You will want to have the front of the wheel against something, and give it some hard pushes to bring it back. If it doesn't go back all the way, start tightening the clamps while you are pushing on the wheel (may require a friend).

I had mine go crooked after a low speed collision with someone who cut me off. I thought it was junk, but it came right back.

It is possible the tubes are bent. If, when the clamps are loosened, the fork tube cannot be spun around or spins easier at some points than others, it is not perfect. Not perfect is probably not a big deal, but completely buggered is.

 

[Guest]

i've been trying to get my head around this one for the last few minutes
i really don't see how you could have the forks/wheel out of alignment UNLESS the forks are (at least somewhat) bent

 

[Colin Green]

mate, i've read a lot of stuff on this forum but never came accross something like that :-s
lets wait for more knowlegeable to turn the light on

And to think!... you were my hero.

Loosening the center pivot point should not make a difference, as the top and bottom move freely in relation to one another when the forks aren't there. Try loosening the top and bottom fork clamps, the fender (or remove it while adjusting), and also loosening the axle nut.

You will want to have the front of the wheel against something, and give it some hard pushes to bring it back. If it doesn't go back all the way, start tightening the clamps while you are pushing on the wheel (may require a friend).

I had mine go crooked after a low speed collision with someone who cut me off. I thought it was junk, but it came right back.

It is possible the tubes are bent. If, when the clamps are loosened, the fork tube cannot be spun around or spins easier at some points than others, it is not perfect. Not perfect is probably not a big deal, but completely buggered is.

I think that was what I did. Except I haven't yet tried loosening the guard and axle.

I'm reasonably strong and tried wedging the wheel between my legs and pushing the bar then tightening the clamp to no good effect.

Will try loosening guard & axle then bracing the wheel.

Nice to hear it's fixable

Cheers

 

[Big T]

The forks are twisted in the triple clamps. This can happen from a fall, or mild impact. To correct:

1. Find something solid, like the garage door jamb, a pole or tree
2. Loosen the bolts that hold the tubes to the upper and lower triple clamps
3. Look down your top triple clamp (from the seat). Which way does the front wheel point when the gauges are straight?
4. If it points right, place the right side of the tire against #1 (solid object). Push hard on the left handlebar until the wheel and gauges are in line with handlebars.
5. Do it from the other side if the wheel point left
6.When it seems straight, put the bike on the centerstand. Put the brake on and push down on the front a few times. Check to see the fork tubes did not ride up in the clamps. Tighten the clamp bolts
7. Go ride

 

[t3rmin]

If you don't get it straight at rest, it'll never be right (ie: twisting, then tightening).

I'd loosen the "center nut" and the "upper clamp to center pivot point" and the top (or top and bottom) triple-clamps and the axle, then twist on the whole thing good and hard. Maybe you can get it back into alignment. Then tighten everything but the top triple and axle nut, and bounce the front end on the ground hard a few times to complete the process. Then tighten it all.

 

[Colin Green]

The forks are twisted in the triple clamps. This can happen from a fall, or mild impact. To correct:

1. Find something solid, like the garage door jamb, a pole or tree
2. Loosen the bolts that hold the tubes to the upper and lower triple clamps
3. Look down your top triple clamp (from the seat). Which way does the front wheel point when the gauges are straight?
4. If it points right, place the right side of the tire against #1 (solid object). Push hard on the left handlebar until the wheel and gauges are in line with handlebars.
5. Do it from the other side if the wheel point left
6.When it seems straight, put the bike on the centerstand. Put the brake on and push down on the front a few times. Check to see the fork tubes did not ride up in the clamps. Tighten the clamp bolts
7. Go ride

Cheers. I have been trying with the bike on center stand and propped up so no weight is on the front wheel because I figured that the forks would slide up if i didn't keep the weight off the front wheel.

Can you confirm that a fat bastard can sit on the bike (with no side or center stand down) while the clamp bolts are finger loose???

Thanks

If you don't get it straight at rest, it'll never be right (ie: twisting, then tightening).

I'd loosen the "center nut" and the "upper clamp to center pivot point" and the top (or top and bottom) triple-clamps and the axle, then twist on the whole thing good and hard. Maybe you can get it back into alignment. Then tighten everything but the top triple and axle nut, and bounce the front end on the ground hard a few times to complete the process. Then tighten it all.

Cheers

I can't get the "center nut" loose as it seems an odd size (between 21 & 22mm or in imperial - between 13/16 and 7/8) and I don't want a f*ing damaged tank, bolt or hand.

 

[t3rmin]

I wouldn't put weight on the front without either the top or bottom clamps tight.

 

[Colin Green]

I wouldn't put weight on the front without either the top or bottom clamps tight.

Sounds logical, but less likely to move when I push it.

I guess if I'm a weakling and if can't get it to budge, I will have to get a mate over to help.

Cheers

 

[t3rmin]

If you get everything on the top clamp loose, there's nothing to keep the top and bottom from moving independently, so you should be alright. I'd loosen it all up with the wheel off the ground still, and pry on it as much as you can. If you have to put it on the ground to reef on it harder, just tighten the bottom clamp.

 

[Guest]

And to think!... you were my hero.

hey, i can still be your LOCAL hero! :-D

watching this thread with interest
some of the suggestions seem rather similar to what we would do with bicycles after a serious crash when we were kids, so i guess the same logic applies - use brute force, push, twist, hit...

on "the american chopper" though those forks just lightly slide in the triple trees and are immediately perfectly aligned. could they be pulling our fingers on that show

 

[Colin Green]

hey, i can still be your LOCAL hero! :-D

watching this thread with interest
some of the suggestions seem rather similar to what we would do with bicycles after a serious crash when we were kids, so i guess the same logic applies - use brute force, push, twist, hit...

on "the american chopper" though those forks just lightly slide in the triple trees and are immediately perfectly aligned. could they be pulling our fingers on that show

I think if you slide 1 fork higher than the other, the vertical alignment (plumb) of the wheel would be altered.

I too figured the push bike principle would apply.

I bought the car into the garage to lock the front wheel against and gave the bars a couple of good hard shoves, and thought I had it pretty good (but didn't shift the car and have a proper look before tightening everything up again.. duh!). Still the same. Will sort it out another day. I have carbs to start cleaning and boots to soften today.

 

[XL-erate]

One problem a guy can be fighting with stuff like this is dis-similar metals. Strange corrosion things can occur that exceed the powers of normal mortals. One surprising aid is water, the most universally soluble material on earth.

Sometimes on a hard fitup you can put on the old tea kettle, loosen up your parts and pour a bit of hot water on the joints. The water is very 'small' and gets into tiny crevices, and the heat expands all local metals. Usually because it's hot it very quickly evaporates, forestalling further rust. It's just enough to break down some aluminum corrosions and rust on steel parts allowing adjustment.

Also a good old rubber mallet is one indispensable device. A sharp rap imparts all your force without damage. I leave one of mine outside year round so it hardens up and gives a strong hit, another stays inside year round to stay soft for more 'delicate persuasion'.

Though it seems impossible, I have a set of Honda 450 forks that have perfect fork tubes, not a mark on them and absolutely straight. However the forged steel fork tree is bent! How the heck.....? Some kind of strange dynamic force managed to bend the tree, crack the top stay and the old Showas remain unharmed. Weird, man, weird.

Planning to heat and straighten that tree, it's the one with the stem, and return to use.