Stranded in MEX???

[Richsuz]

HELP.
I took my 650gld to mex as previously planned. turns out gasoline was an issue once. missed the gas station by about 2 miles. 2000 miles into the trip my secondary gear, the part that connects the transmition to the shaft, broke! I cant get the part here, and appears to be discontinued. Part No. 24900 34812, and the nut 09159 14010. The oil seal 09283 35018. Can anyone help? USed new, whatever. I will cover expenses...Not possible to machine the part.
Mechanic seems to believe, that I could nurse it home, without the nut, that holds the sec gear, which was grinding inside. there enough length so that there is no fear of it comming off. We are talking about 1000 miles...will add photos in a minute.

 

[posplayr]

HELP.
I took my 650gld to mex as previously planned. turns out gasoline was an issue once. missed the gas station by about 2 miles. 2000 miles into the trip my secondary gear, the part that connects the transmition to the shaft, broke! I cant get the part here, and appears to be discontinued. Part No. 24900 34812, and the nut 09159 14010. The oil seal 09283 35018. Can anyone help? USed new, whatever. I will cover expenses...Not possible to machine the part.
Mechanic seems to believe, that I could nurse it home, without the nut, that holds the sec gear, which was grinding inside. there enough length so that there is no fear of it comming off. We are talking about 1000 miles...will add photos in a minute.

Not sure if you can post a pic of the parts fiche #'s (rather than part number). I know nothing of shafties but maybe someone else has these pasts laying around.

 

[Nessism]

Here is a link to the repair tutorial. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/bevel_gear_shaft_repair_zooks.pdf

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I doubt you would make it very far. Without the bolt you would loose the
preload for the gears and could destroy the engine Check the post for a repair from Nissisn
AS A LAST RESORT have someone weld the drive gear stub to the drive shaft flange

edit ?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4833c1f507

 

[Richsuz]

Thanks guys. Nissims solution is very clever and what we will do. hope to be on the road by tomorrow.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

A Mr Zook,s was the original poster of the fix. It's a great way to fix one

 

[Guest]

IF you do damage anything I have one of these on a spare motor ready to go.

Call me on the phone number in my signature and I can get it right out.

 

[Richsuz]

Okey, I left this post open. If you read my other thread you'd know that I am back home. Completed three thousand miles after the repair was performed as per Mr Zooks tutorial. The complete job, including, labor, new oil seal, allen bolt and machining, about $45-50 US. Not bad.
I was left with a couple of unknowns, since the tutorial did not specified two things:

1) the bolt was torqued to 70 lbs/sqin. Is this enough? Should I worry about it comming loose soon? A presure washer was also installed.
2) the bolt was cut to 21 mm, half the specified 40 mm. The mechanic and machinist were aprehensive about drilling and threading so deep into the shaft. Should I go the entire 40mm?

 

[Dogma]

The design rule of thumb is to have thread engagement length of 1-1.5 times the nominal diameter of the screw. So, the specified M12 should engage 12-18 mm of the tapped hole. Granted, that's the rule for a flat plate. The structural geometry around this repair is complex, and there may be relevant considerations regarding the extra load the screw will put on the splined portion of the shaft. I doubt there's a way to do any engineering calculations to figure it all out without some expensive FEA analysis. The same goes for the torque on the screw. 70 lb*ft of torque is probably good. Some blue loc-tite was hopefully used.

I think if it has held this long it's probably good. It might be a good idea to take it apart and look for signs of loosening. If it's still as tight as when you made the repair, then it will most likely last forever.

 

[Richsuz]

Sounds reasonable. I will take a look in another 1000 miles. BTW, the oil seal, Since I was not able to get OEM, I purchased one with same dimensions, used for hydrolic pumps. The mechanic pointed out that the OEM had an arrow, pointing clockwise, as if the oil seal had rotational direction (like tires), he had never seen that, found it puzzling, so he informed me of it. What is this about?

 

[Dogma]

I've never had that seal off, so I'm not sure what it looks like. Possibly the arrow is to help you figure out which side faces the gearbox? Did it point in a clockwise direction? Any mention of the arrow in the service manual?

I did once see a seal with fine ridges that would tend to pull fluid away from the sealing lip as the shaft rotates (in the correct direction). That was a very long time ago, so I don't remember if it had a directional arrow or not. I don't even remember what my Dad took it off of (I was something less than 10 years old).

 

[Richsuz]

The arrow is on the outside of the seal. like I said seems to indicate rotational direction, not which side is out. It points clockwise. Manual for the GS650G page 4-4 talks about the seal, but makes no mention of any rotation requirements. The seal is like any other oil seal, like the fork seal, so it is clear which is the front or back side, in or out side.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would leave it alone !!! If you try and drill it deeper you will probably damage the new threads