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Strangest thing i ever did see. Still having engine problems with a cylinder.

  • Thread starter Thread starter stoy75
  • Start date Start date
Ok a few answers.

Carb cleaning was complete tear down, soaking, and all new o rings and float needles.

Carbs were balanced twice. Just to be sure.

Soaked engine with lights out. No visible spark or arcing.

Never had a coil arc.

Swapped all plugs around. No change.

Something I noticed in the process of light show.... Can feel vibration in coil for 1 and 4. Don't feel that in coil for 2 and 3. Or at least not as pronounced.
 
stoy75 said:
Ok a few answers.

Carb cleaning was complete tear down, soaking, and all new o rings and float needles.

Carbs were balanced twice. Just to be sure.

Soaked engine with lights out. No visible spark or arcing.

Never had a coil arc.

Swapped all plugs around. No change.

Something I noticed in the process of light show.... Can feel vibration in coil for 1 and 4. Don't feel that in coil for 2 and 3. Or at least not as pronounced.
Click to expand...

Did you swap the plug wires though?
 
I got a shock just today from a wire with the 77 750 running..which tells me its time to get some 7MM wires and out new leads on.
 
May be an absolutely stupid question and not to embarass you, but did you bolt the slide to the throttle rod? I know..I know, but I did that once!!
 
Ok so pulled plugs since it won't make noise and little bear is now asleep. Plug #2 is soaked and fouled black. Acting just like #3 used to because it used to do that. Can't swap wires and run bike till tomorrow.
 
No...If you look where the leads go in the coil you see they are epoxied in. Inside the coil ( down in the bottom of the hole ) is a pointed pin... like the screw thats on the caps.

I remove the epoxy and pull the wires out.

Then I use a dowel and stick it in till it hits the pin and make a mark. Tranfer that depth along the raised area on the coil body and make a cut with a dremal about 1MM short of the mark. Cut down the bumped sides that the wire goes in and make a window. Then I insert the new leads onto the pins and just use 5 minute epoxy and shape a new side to the coil ..I think you know what i mean. Can sand it to make it look nice and now you have new leads installed into the coils. Cut them to length at the plugs and put the caps on.
 
Could it be that the coil is starting to fail which is why it switched cylinders?
 
Ok so I switched the plug wires between 2 and 3. And the problem did not follow. #2 still has no effect on the engine when you take the plug wire off. So I guess back to square one. Uggg. What's my best course now?
 
So we have isolated the problem to JUST number two AND eliminated the wires. Basically leaves just 2 things..that cylinders compression is to low or the carb for number 2 is faulty in some way.
 
Bad rings, bad valve clearances, bad valve seats ( pitted or burnt) as well as burnt or chipped edges of a valve to name a few possibilities. Pin hole in piston from running way too lean for too long.
 
Hmm all sound frighteningly expensive. So compression test seems easiest to test. If its low valve clearances was the most recent change. Maybe I got something wrong.
 
Do the compression check on all 4 cylinders and recheck the clearances on number 2 would be good things to recheck.

To do the compression check, warm up the bike ( we know 2 will be cold ). Pull the wires and label them if you choose so you remember where they go.

Twist the throttle full open and crank it till the needle on the guage has maxed its compression reading...record each cylinders optimal compression and post them .
 
Recheck the clearances on number 2 before doing the compression check..be sure its good for the testing.
 
Ok I'm not too big to admit I may be a moron. Kept hearing this puff and then a sputter. So.... I played detective. Hear is what lab analysis shows. I balanced the carbs and went through all this testing without the vacuum line from carb 2 that runs to the tank plugged. In my excitement I completely forgot. Yup it was WIDE OPEN sucking in air and sputtering. Will attempt a rebalance later. But bike is running and I put my finger over the vacuum hose and #2 pipe gets hot.
 
Make sure the vents on 1 and 4 arent blocked off..they let the air in the bowls equalise as the floats move up and down.
 
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