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Stripped engine sprocket nut

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Guest

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I was taking the chain off for maintenance and it got stuck. So I pulled the engine sprocket cover off and found the engine sprocket nut just laying in the cover. After cleaning it up I discover there are no thread left in the nut!

Anyone know how that could happen?
 
I was taking the chain off for maintenance and it got stuck. So I pulled the engine sprocket cover off and found the engine sprocket nut just laying in the cover. After cleaning it up I discover there are no thread left in the nut!

Anyone know how that could happen?
If you're not the original owner and haven't changed the sprocket before, I'd venture to guess that a PO stripped the threads with an impact gun. I doubt it's as hard as the shaft threads.
 
I changed the sprocket in 2010. I thought I did it correctly but who knows. I do know I did not use an impact wrench since I do not own one.
 
Several others questions come to mind in replacing the sprocket.

The front sprocket is definitely worn.

sprockethighlight.jpg

I read that you should change the chain and rear sprocket as a set.

If the chain is not stretched beyond the specification in the manual , is it really necessary to change the chain?

Do you change the sprockets on a schedule or on the basis of wear?
 
...
I read that you should change the chain and rear sprocket as a set.

If the chain is not stretched beyond the specification in the manual , is it really necessary to change the chain?...

Yes. A worn chain will wear out the sprockets much faster.
 
If the chain is not stretched beyond the specification in the manual , is it really necessary to change the chain?

Yes. Change the sprockets and chain as a set.


The chain measurement procedure in the manuals is 100% complete unadulterated bull puckey.

Maybe it had some validity back in the roller chain days in the 1960s or something, but modern x-ring/o-ring chains simply don't wear out that way.


Back to the original topic, are the threads on the countershaft OK?
 
They show some wear. Hope there is enough to hold a replacement nut.
 
If the threads are damaged get a thread file and clean them up. Don't just spin a new nut onto damaged threads.
 
I picked up a thread gauge at Lowes. The thread pitch is 1.5. I measured the inside diameter of the new nut and got 18.5 mm. I assume that means 18 mm nominal bolt size.

Also was wondering if the thread file or a die would be the better choice? Currently I have neither in my tools.
 
I picked up a thread gauge at Lowes. The thread pitch is 1.5. I measured the inside diameter of the new nut and got 18.5 mm. I assume that means 18 mm nominal bolt size.

Also was wondering if the thread file or a die would be the better choice? Currently I have neither in my tools.

Thread file, unless the threads are in really bad shape.
 
McMaster-Carr sells some nice metric thread files for not much dough. They include several thread pitches.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#8309a11

However, it's going to be tough to reach the countershaft with this style of thread file since the swingarm is in the way.

This style thread file might make it easier or possible -- it's basically sort of a "knife" shape that works to clean up any thread.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#2617a12

Metric threads are 60 degrees, so you could also clean them up with a small triangle file if you're careful and patient.



You could reach the threads easily with an internal thread file, but I don't know how effective you could be. And it's a good bit more expensive.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#2542a42
 
Thanks for the reply. Been trying to get back to it. Too many interruptions .

I hope to post a picture of the threads tomorrow. I am losing the light and the flash tends to affect the clarity.
 
Hard to tell from the pic.

If it was me I'd grab one of these for your drill and clean it up to assess how bad it is:

3mm-Brass-Wire-Wheel-Brushes-Cup-Rust-Rotary-For-Dremel-Tools-Drill-Rust-Weld-Die-Grinder.jpg_640x640.jpg
 
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