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Stripped Oil Plug

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I wish I was never born. I think I really messed things up this time.

Yesterday, I changed my oil, like Ive done a few times before. But, apparently I tightened the plug bot too much. I rode the bike around yesterday and then parked it in my garage for the night. This morning, I noticed a puddle below the bike (fresh oil.) So, I did the logical thing and tried to find the source of the leak- I found that it was coming from the area that the plug contacts the bottom of the engine.

So, I dumped the oil into a pan and cleaned the threads of the plug. I wiped the washer and the bottom of the engine. As I was pouring the oil back into the engine, I noticed a few metal specs and several small metal circles.

Needless to say, It still leaks. Now, I don't have a clue what to do. The bolt wont tighten, it spins, but will not tighten.

If you know how to seal this plug in a way so it can be removed, It would be appreciated.

Thanks, Matt
 
I've heard that NAPA and others carry oversized, self-threading replacement plugs.

Michael
 
I've also heard that replacement plugs are made, but I heard that aluminum doesnt thred very well. If I runed the hole completely, then Im really screwed.
 
mtpease said:
I've also heard that replacement plugs are made, but Doesnt aluminum thred poorly. If I runed the hole completely, then Im really screwed
Click to expand...

No, aluminum is a soft metal and one of the easiest to put threads into.

Michael
 
Napa does have the oversized plugs, but make sure the pitch of the threads match. I tried to do this for my 78 GS750 and all they had was an M14-1.5 and I needed an M14-1.25.

otherwise, your're talking about a complete re-thread and you might as well put a piggy-back in if you're going to do that.

-Jon
 
If they have a helicoil that is the right size then you should do that. It's a bit more involved (drill, tap and insert coil) but it's worth it.
I've done a spark plug hole and several bolt holes with excellent results.
Just make sure you follow the instructions precisely.
 
Something that isn't as easy, but may work better is to go junkyard diving. I think my local zuke dealer sold me the oil pan gasket for 11 bucks. You could get a new gasket and buy an old oil pan. I can't see them charging too much for it. (Unless you live in boise, those guys smoke crack!!.)
 
I got my gasket off Bikebandit for 6$, and I got the sump cover off ebay with an oil filter cover and all nuts and bolts for less than 20 if I remember correctly. I still have yet to put it on....

So is it more common to strip the plug from overtightening than cross threading? I would like to avoid doing this to either of our bikes if I could. (My bike came to me stripped)
 
I am going the oil pan route on my 81 750. I don't think they have any 400's at the junk yard but if you like I can check for you.

Mike
 
One thing to mention:

The torque specs for my 78 GS750 indicate only 7 (yes seven) ft-lbs or torque for the oil drain plug. Hard to believe, but then again, not really. It's a 14mm bolt threading into about 3mm of aluminum. Easy to roast!

-jon
 
Guess I will be the one to be cheap here but,,,

Mine did that a few years back and I just put some red RV silicone around the bolt, about an eigth of an inch and re-tightenend the bolt. No leaks for 3 years so far. :roll:
 
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