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Stripped out pilot screw...What now?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BOB80GS1100
  • Start date Start date
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BOB80GS1100

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Hi everyone, just picked up a 1980 GS1100ET for a project bike, my goal is to bring it back to life and use it as a daily rider, I want to do all the work myself and with the help of this site and you folks I believe it can be done. The bike is in great shape but has sat for the last 10 years. It cranks over and has plenty of spark but when I took the carbs off to start the breakdown for a rebuild somebody already got to the factory sealed pilot screws and really did a number on them, I mean there isn't even a groove left to put a screwdriver in, my first thought is to drill it carefully and try and use an easy out with lube and heat but before I make matters worst I would like to know if anyone has a better suggestion? Desperate for a fix cause I love working on these old machines! Thanks.
 
First of all,
welcome.gif



Great that you have found us and are asking questions about your new friend.

Here is one way that is recommended to get those screws out, assuming you are talking about the mixture screws that are on top of the outlet of the carbs.

Use a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel to cut a groove down the middle of the "tower" until you cut a new slot in the top of the mixture screw.
If you go down the middle of the tower and the middle of the screw, you can actually use the same screw, if you have to, but a new one is recommended.

These two carbs have both had the slot cut to extract the screw:
IMG_4081.jpg


.
 
Steve, thank you for the welcome and for the quick response. I knew I was in the right place as soon as I saw this forum and I'm sure this will be just one of many calls for help...thanks again.
 
I've gone through two carb bodies because of that janky screw. I hate it! Good luck and be patient.
 
After you get a slot cut, let it soak in pb blast over night. Once you get the screw to budge in any direction, just work it back and forth. If will eventually work it's way out little by little.
 
I have taken a thin blade from a junkie screw driver and smacked it into the soft brass to get a grip on them. Heat is a good idea to get the oring softer too. And like was said..once you get it to budge, work it back and forth to loosen it up in the threads and work it out slowly and carefully.
 
By the way, Z! has pilot needles listed for the KZ1000..same as the GS ones but a bit longer of a stem..fits right in.
 
:clap: thank you for this post.my 750 spectre kawasaki has a stripped pilot screw.now i know how to get it out.
 
Crage said:
After you get a slot cut, let it soak in pb blast over night. Once you get the screw to budge in any direction, just work it back and forth. If will eventually work it's way out little by little.
Click to expand...

The screws are set at the factory with a spot of paint. This is why they get messed up so often.
 
On my most recent acquisition I had to use a fair amount of heat from a propane torch to get them out even when they did move back and fourth. On one, it took several days of heat and PB blaster before it would screw completely out. The O-ring gets caught up and jams it inside. Adding heat softens (or melts) the o-ring enough to allow it to move. Just remember that PB blaster is flammable (don't ask me how I know). Patients’ is the key. I did have to re-slot one though. The dremal wheel method to re-slot the screws works great. Just make VERY sure that the screwdriver you’re using is a good fit. Using the wrong size driver is what really messes them up. Press down hard while turning.

 
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Another way Use a large drill bit that just fits into the recess hole. Use it to drill a starting point for your drill then use a left hand 1/8" drill drill down 1/4" using lots of pressure. The screw may just spin itself out
 
[qoute] Just remember that PB blaster is flammable (don't ask me how I know).

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PB blaster is not flammable. If I'm not mistaken it says so right on the can. I use it all the time and have never had it flame up. Smoke like hell yes but never catch fire. Now WD40 on the other had is a whole other story. :eek:
 
tkent02 said:
The screws are set at the factory with a spot of paint. This is why they get messed up so often.
Click to expand...

The cap that covers them also has a small hole in it. This allows a lot of dirt to collect in the treads with no way to be cleaned out until you pull the cap for the first time.
 
Sorry to inform you but PB blaster can and WILL ignite if you use an open flame propane torch while the PB is liquid in and around the screw hole. Don't doubt me on this as it did burst into flame a couple times when I used it last. I was able to blow out the flame, but I'm still giving a caution that it can happen and you should be prepared in case it does. It's not easy to light off, but once it does it will continue to burn.
 
I know it's flammable it says so on the front of the can. I was being a wise guy because it's so obvious. Sorry to thread jack carry on.
 
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