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Stripped rotor puller threads now what? 1150

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
My starter clutch is trying to shoot a pin out. Rotor nut is off, but the rotor puller or me stripped the threads on the rotor itself. I've done this job several times in the past w/no issues, but this time is a no go. I've used heat, tapping, etc., threads are gone. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks.
 
try this

picture.php



whoops, you stripped the rotor?
 
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My starter clutch is trying to shoot a pin out. Rotor nut is off, but the rotor puller or me stripped the threads on the rotor itself. I've done this job several times in the past w/no issues, but this time is a no go. I've used heat, tapping, etc., threads are gone. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks.

the threads on the rotor and puller have a short life.
now is time to have someone weld your puller to your rotor and then pull it off.
buy a replacement rotor and move on.
been there...done that...sucks but it happens.
 
I'm willing at this point to sacrifice the rotor, thinking I might have to dremel the rotor off. I already have the rotor puller, but know the threads look a little buggered. Not as buggered as the threads on the rotor. The moment I touch the end of the crankshaft with the rotor puller bolt, the puller threads attached to the rotor, pull off.
 
Would a ginormous three-jaw puller work on this? You might be able to rent one, but I don't know whether you'd be able to get a grip on the rotor.
 
Would a ginormous three-jaw puller work on this? You might be able to rent one, but I don't know whether you'd be able to get a grip on the rotor.

a large taper GS crank kicks a large 3 jaw puller's azz...or at least my 1150 rotor did.
the rotor and center are 2 different parts so the rotor just flexes and breaks the magnets that doesn't really matter at this point...
carter has zero to lose right now...go for it with LOTS of heat an impact and a BIG hammer!
 
a large taper GS crank kicks a large 3 jaw puller's azz...or at least my 1150 rotor did.
the rotor and center are 2 different parts so the rotor just flexes and breaks the magnets that doesn't really matter at this point...
carter has zero to lose right now...go for it with LOTS of heat an impact and a BIG hammer!

That's what I was afraid of. :(

I once rebuilt an engine and just left the damn rotor in place on the crankshaft. Couldn't shift it.

The manual cheerfully tells you to use a slide hammer... yeah right. :mad:
 
both part and tool are now junk.
get a buddy to come over with his welder and run some beads after you pound the puller on flush.
hit with an impact and off it should come.
 
Here's another just for your enjoyment, not mine. Was thinking maybe I could drill through the puller into the the rotor and tap a pin in, then attempt to twist the bolt onto the end of the crankshaft?

Blower, not really seeing removal of the rotor once the puller is welded on. How would that happen, just twist the bolt on the end of the crank as normal?
 
yes pound puller fLush with rotor(THREAD ON) then hit with hammer to seat it all the way and then weld really well.
use impact on the center bolt of the puller....should POP!
 
Carter, I have punched the pins back in before where yours is sticking out & welded a bead over that area to keep them from punching through. You could do that & run it till you come up with a new rotor assembly. After you get another rotor you could then weld the puller to this one & remove it. That gives you some more riding time till you come up with the new parts. Just an idea for you. Ray.
 
Personally, I would never take a hammer to anything on my bike, or a impact driver for that matter. But that's just me...
 
Ray, I thought about welding over the pins, but figured the rollers, were all scarred up. I do have another rotor and clutch in better shape sitting on the bench.
 
Posplayer, can you get mapp gas in a small bottle like propane? Maybe I used too much red loctite the last time I destroyed my starter clutch and my rotor was loose.
 
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