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Stripped rotor puller threads now what? 1150

storm 64 said:
Personally, I would never take a hammer to anything on my bike, or a impact driver for that matter. But that's just me...
Click to expand...

he has a broken bike...can't hurt the broken area now.
an impact is all part of working with large fastener's.
:evil:
 
I'm sorry, ( I'm just a idiot) I'll just go back to the GSR story section... I'll let you guys beat and torque on your crankshafts at will. But please remember them crankshafts are only pressed together. A good impact with a hammer can move the shaft out of time... A true, welded and balanced crank is a happy crank. :)
 
storm 64 said:
I'm sorry, ( I'm just a idiot) I'll just go back to the GSR story section... I'll let you guys beat and torque on your crankshafts at will. But please remember them crankshafts are only pressed together. A good impact with a hammer can move the shaft out of time... A true, welded and balanced crank is a happy crank. :)
Click to expand...

not to go to far with this but....
i worked in a crank shop...an impact won't touch(TWIST) it as far as the press fit..nope...never
 
blowerbike said:
not to go to far with this but....
i worked in a crank shop...an impact won't touch(TWIST) it as far as the press fit..nope...never
Click to expand...

he did say torque as well. The pullers have a set of flats to hold the puller while torquing the bolt, so this doesn't put any torque on the crank, but if you use an impact and use the engine inertia it will torque the crank even if it typically doesn't permanently twist the crank.
 
Mr Blowerbike, in no way do I want to insult your intelligence. But your advice to Carter to "hammer" the stripped out puller on to the flywheel then weld it in place is questionable. The side load on the engine cases would be extreme not to mention the crankshaft itself. Now I'm not a crankshaft expert myself, but I wonder why engine builders weld the crankshaft in the first place if it doesn't move. I've Seen crankshafts that twisted even after welded. However some predetonation may have been involved. Lol respectfully Norm ...
 
I spent most of the day trying to remove the rotor. Never got a hold of any mapp. Tried to make a crude slide hammer by using the two holes on the opposing side of the rotor. Broke nails and cotter pins trying to hold big washers on the slide. By the way, this is a welded super crank, back when Falicon had more respect apparently. Propane heat and slide did nothing, but take time to build something that didn't work.

I had a buddy helping me brainstorm ideas with limited tools and he had access to a three prong puller, so we tried that, even though blower suggested it wouldn't work. It was clear it wouldn't work on the rounded edge of the rotor, but since I was willing to sacrifice the rotor to GS higher ups, out came the angle grinder. I assure you, it felt very wrong using this tool. I proceeded to gouge slots big enough for the puller teeth to get purchase in the sides of the rotor. All the way through to the magnets. Then we started tightening the puller pin with hammer taps or blows and heat. We wanted to "win" really bad, but the thing wasn't budging.

My friend finally missed a tap on the puller and drew blood on his hand. After several tightening revolutions on the puller, we decided to use some heat with puller under heavy tension. As I torched heat around the middle of the rotor, I thought I heard a sound, but wasn't sure, then the rotor and puller shot off the crankshaft, I'm not kidding over a foot straight out.

 
storm 64 said:
Mr Blowerbike, in no way do I want to insult your intelligence. But your advice to Carter to "hammer" the stripped out puller on to the flywheel then weld it in place is questionable. The side load on the engine cases would be extreme not to mention the crankshaft itself. Now I'm not a crankshaft expert myself, but I wonder why engine builders weld the crankshaft in the first place if it doesn't move. I've Seen crankshafts that twisted even after welded. However some predetonation may have been involved. Lol respectfully Norm ...
Click to expand...

norm this is dumb ****...
by hammer i mean to seat the puller because of the thread damage.
all this other bla bla bla is a waste of bandwidth.
and impacting hurts nothing...the hammering i suggested just insures the puller is all the way on.
do this for over 20 well over 25 years and get back with me then maybe you'll have some actual on the job experience to offer.:evil:
 
posplayr said:
he did say torque as well. The pullers have a set of flats to hold the puller while torquing the bolt, so this doesn't put any torque on the crank, but if you use an impact and use the engine inertia it will torque the crank even if it typically doesn't permanently twist the crank.
Click to expand...

you are over thinking this.....
i like watching people put their bike in gear and have a helper hold the brake...hehehhe
i stand by and watch the chain tighten and the swing arm move..
the 2 people go WTF...it won't budge!
funny stuff.
and by the way...carter's crank is welded...you know...1150 model.
 
Carter Turk said:
I spent most of the day trying to remove the rotor. Never got a hold of any mapp. Tried to make a crude slide hammer by using the two holes on the opposing side of the rotor. Broke nails and cotter pins trying to hold big washers on the slide. By the way, this is a welded super crank, back when Falicon had more respect apparently. Propane heat and slide did nothing, but take time to build something that didn't work.

I had a buddy helping me brainstorm ideas with limited tools and he had access to a three prong puller, so we tried that, even though blower suggested it wouldn't work. It was clear it wouldn't work on the rounded edge of the rotor, but since I was willing to sacrifice the rotor to GS higher ups, out came the angle grinder. I assure you, it felt very wrong using this tool. I proceeded to gouge slots big enough for the puller teeth to get purchase in the sides of the rotor. All the way through to the magnets. Then we started tightening the puller pin with hammer taps or blows and heat. We wanted to "win" really bad, but the thing wasn't budging.

My friend finally missed a tap on the puller and drew blood on his hand. After several tightening revolutions on the puller, we decided to use some heat with puller under heavy tension. As I torched heat around the middle of the rotor, I thought I heard a sound, but wasn't sure, then the rotor and puller shot off the crankshaft, I'm not kidding over a foot straight out.


i said the rotor would flex..i'm sure it did.
you had damaged parts and you did what it took to get the bad parts off.
good job!
no damage to any of the good parts...well smashed fingers and such are part of it..lol
now if i can get a fark nut or 2 not to question my advise the world would be a better place:D
Click to expand...
 
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