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stripping paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rick65Cat
  • Start date Start date
R

Rick65Cat

Guest
As it states above.
Whats the best way to strip the factory paint down to the bare base material?

Metal gas tank...
I'm wondering if using sand as a media on the metal gas tank, will it "roughen" up the metal too much?

And the plastic tail piece....
use soda?
 
i used a da sander for the tank, i dont see why you need to strip plastic down, just ruff up and paint.
 
sand plastic with 600 grit, seal, and paint. Metal parts, I like to use a product called Aircraft Stripper. works great, just rough up the old paint with 80 grit paper so the chemical can really work.
 
Gads, being the lazy type, I wanted to steer clear of manual labor lol.
 
Paint stripper works well on metal parts like the tank. Plastic parts are a pain, particularly if there are graphics applied, since you have to sand them down by hand. Yes, lots of work as Lynn states.
 
If there are any vinyl graphics on the tank, 3M makes a rubber eraser wheel that fits in your drill. Takes graphics off without causing damage to the paint. I think I've seen the wheel in auto zone
 
i just got done painting mine and i used the aircraft stripper also.. but only on the metal parts!!! i sanded the heck out of the tail using 100 grit and a small virating sander... turned out great! i removed all the graphics with good ole fingernails before any sanding or stripping. just take your time, a good paint job is all in the prep work.
 
I have often heard that painting is 90% preparation. :-k

Unfortunately for you, probably 90% of that preparation is going to be "manual labor". :o

.
 
There's a wheel for graphics?
Where was this information a few weeks ago as I painfully sliced and peeled mine off with a one sided razor blade?


Although, eucalyptus oil and a heat gun will lift them off quickly and painlessly.
 
Rick,

Feel free to check out my thread...
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1303906#post1303906

I'm probably a few days behind you as I'm still waiting for my tank to arrive but I bought an old center stand to tinker with first.

I had found someone here who had real good luck cleaning his carbs out with a baking soda blaster but that didn't quite cut it for a job like this. The paint stripper did a pretty respectable job at getting all but the most well adhered paint off my center stand. I'm hoping that since the gas tank has less crevices the job will be more straight forward.

Right now I plan on trying a few coats of paint stripper first followed by the trusty 150 grit orbital sander. Once I'm down to bare metal I'll likely go for the tank sealer straight off rather than trust what it may or may not look like in there from the PO. Looks like rolling aquarium gravel is the way to go there to ruff things up and try to release as much rust as possible before trying to do an internal coating.

Keep me posted on your own success and let me know if you run into any snags I should think about before I get there. ;-)

All the best.
 
I have heard that once you get an edge started on graphics that wd 40 dissolved the glue pretty quick.. anyone know of this??
 
I have heard that once you get an edge started on graphics that wd 40 dissolved the glue pretty quick.. anyone know of this??

Doing this right now with WD-40, it work a little bit, not really good. Still have to get under there with a knife or something. Looking for the old MonoKote heat gun.
 
There's a wheel for graphics?
Where was this information a few weeks ago as I painfully sliced and peeled mine off with a one sided razor blade?

IMG00152.jpg

Made by 3M part #07499 Cost about $20. Great because it won't damage the clear or paint beneath the vinyl. Also removes pin stripes as long as they are not under the clear.
 
Trouble I've had with WD is that it tends to smear the adhesive. I like to use paint thinner or even lighter fluid.
 
Ok....*sigh* I guess its the manual labor thing then. I did start peeling the pinstripe on the tail piece a few weeks ago and what tiny bit I did seemed to come easily. I used to have a palm sander til my daughter loaned it to her useless boyfreind. GONE! :mad:
I was thinking media to be absolutely sure I got it ALL. But I admit I am concerned about getting grit inside the tank. (Not like it can't be gotten out though.)
I will be removing the petcock as well as the fuel gauge sender unit. Got all new gaskets to put them back on too. :D
Can't wait to see what new base/clear in black will look like. (no chips or scatches)

Anyone try using those acid dip places that do automotive parts?
 
I've sandblasted more than one motorcycle tank. sand in the tank isnt a big deal to get out again, nor is it hard to simply put an inline filter on.

aircraft stripper works well for metal, but on plastic, your only safe and effective choice, is to sand. break out the orbital, start with some coarse stuff, and work down to about a 400 grit or so. you'll want SOMETHING for the primer to adhere to, so you dont want smooth as glass surfaces, but not deep GOUGES either.

if you do good prep work, your paintjob will look AWESOME. lazy prepwork, and your paint will look like a 5 year old could do a better job with a paintbrush and latex base paint.
 
Question about the sanding, do I need a DA sander for my air compressor or can my standard orbital or belt I use for my wood projects do me just as good but with different paper?
 
I used a 15$ cheapy vibrating sander from home depot with 100 grit automotive paper and worked down to 200 grit.
 
if you do good prep work, your paintjob will look AWESOME. lazy prepwork, and your paint will look like a 5 year old could do a better job with a paintbrush and latex base paint.

LMAO!!!!
Check this out.....
http://rick65cat.multiply.com/photos/album/4/poncho_racing_team#photo=6

Painting my stockcar back in `86. (Only it was oil based paints I used not latex lol)
Lighter colors stick out better on a racetrack at night.

The end reult...(even hand lettered the car with brushes)
http://rick65cat.multiply.com/photos/album/4/poncho_racing_team#photo=7
 
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