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Stuck Bleed Screw

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Does anyone have any information on how to coax a stuck bleed screw into submission.

After breaking two I've got my current brakes working by bleeding through the master cylinder, which is a pain.

Anyway I've just got a genuine replacement caliper for my Katana, and don't wish to snap another bleedscrew

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Nathan
 
If the replacement is new, you shouldn't have a problem. But for preventative maintenance a little Never Seize on the threads before you insert the bleeder. Don't get any into the fluid area. A little rubber boot over the bleeder end will prevent corrosion from starting from the inside out.
You can coax a stuck bleeder with some patience. Soak the thread area with penetrating oil to loosen rust. with a small pall peen hammer, tap the "boss" area around the bleader trhreads. Place a socket over the bleeder and strike straight on to the socket so it too "shocks" the caliper boss around the bleeder threads. When pulling on a wrench to loosen, use 2 hands and consintrate efforts on turning the bleeder screw from the center. Avoid pulling on the end of the wrench to reduce cocking of your turning efforts. Brute force will only break the weak hollow bleeder. Feel the limit!!! Be prutent! Worst case you can use heat to heat the caliper around the threads, "boss" area. The aluminum will expand faster than the steel bleeder giving it extra room to loosen. (be careful, brake fluid is flammable) Once loose, continue to turn out, than back in, and back out advancing further out each time to avoid ripping the threads out of the caliper. Use plenty of penetrating oil.
 
If you have the time, fill the bleed screw with liquid wrench and put the rubber cap on it, let it sit overnight then in the moring you should be able to ease it out with a socket.
 
Here's a tip that I used successfully on several stubborn Suzuki screws ... I bet it might coax your bleeder into submission.

I took my 18V cordless drill (WITH CLUTCH) and set the clutch to the weakest position. I then started to attempt loosening at full speed, letting the clutch "click" for about three to five seconds. If the screw didn't break free, I would set the clutch one notch tighter and repeat.

This has the effect of an impact gun without putting two much stress on the screw (or in this case the bleeder screw). Slowly increase the "grab" of the clutch until the screw breaks free and spins out. Make sure you use a BRAND NEW bit so that you don't strip the screw, and apply firm pressure into the screw head (for the same reason).

I partially stripped several screws by hand, trying to muscle them out. When it occured to me to try this trick, the screws came out with surprisingly little effort! By the way, it's never a bad idea to use penetrating oil first and give it time to work.

Good Luck! 8)
 
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