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Stuck damper bolt and worse...

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
S

spyug

Guest
the allen socket rounded out. I was trying to get it out with my air ratchet and it jumped and rounded the flats in the socket before I could get my finger off the button. Usually this works flawlesly but not today and now I am stuck figuratively and literally.

The only course I can see open to me is to try and use an extractor but I am less than keen on these as I've snapped a few in my day.

Anyone have any ideas?

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Damper-which one? I imagine you can't grab the head of the allen head (recessed?)- left handed drill bits are my next choice; extractors are usually trouble.
 
If you mean the allen bolt in the bottom of your forks just drill the head off. It's really easy as the bolt helps the drill centre and as soon as you see copper stop (you have hit the washer). The headless bolt will unscrew easily from the damper rod when you have the thing apart. I've done this loads of times and it's a standard M6 allen bolt (and new copper washer) to replace.

On some of the smaller Suzukis made outside Japan they used the same set up but the allen bolts were made of cheese so it's almost a case of not even trying to undo the bolt.
 
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Thanks guys. I got a set of extractors from my buddy as I couldn't find mine but I was not really looking forward to using them. I think I'll try the drilling off of the head.

I'll let you know how that works out.

cheers,
spyug
 
I gave up on mine before I hit that issue, fortunately I have air forks and just blew my seals out, I've heard the secret is to use a lot of heat on the head to dissolve the loctite causing them to be so troublesome.
 
Before you drill try a Torx bit beat one of them in the allen hole ....Stuff a wood rod in the fork helps... Too
 
I did try that too haztoys and I do have a tool to hold the damper but the bit just chewed it more.

I then spent an hour drilling but the biggest bit I have is 15/32" so I wasn't able to get the whole head. The pointed drill bit excavates a pit in the head but leaves the sides and its hard to get those without potentially damaging the softer fork leg. I think an end mill would be better as it cuts square to the surface of the bolt head, problem is they are not long enough to chuck into a drill and not have the chuck hit the bolts for the fork axle cap.

With a larger drill bit I should be able to get it but the largest drill I have only has a 1/2" chuck unless I can find a larger bit with a reduced shank. This is getting pricey.

I'll see what tomorrow brings.

Cheers all,
Spyug
 
Too late now...

You could have taken a punch and a hammer to the outside edges of the allen bolt which would have closed up the opening enough so the bit would have held.
 
rustybronco said:
Too late now...

You could have taken a punch and a hammer to the outside edges of the allen bolt which would have closed up the opening enough so the bit would have held.
Click to expand...

Heating the bolt helps as their is thread lock on it from the factory.
 
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Agree with drilling

Agree with drilling

hampshirehog said:
If you mean the allen bolt in the bottom of your forks just drill the head off. It's really easy as the bolt helps the drill centre and as soon as you see copper stop (you have hit the washer). The headless bolt will unscrew easily from the damper rod when you have the thing apart.

My oil filter housing (the bolt running through and holding it in) too became stripped. I tried every type and size visegrip with no luck. I finally when to Nappa and bought a high strenth steel drilling bit/shank made for that specific purpose and I have to be honest not only was it liberating, but it was actually kind of fun. I have been one of those guys constantly frustrated in life with getting every bolt out except just one. Now I am not so paranoid about stripping them. Good luck.
Click to expand...
 
Don't forget you don't need to drill off the whole head. You only drill the thickness of the bolt - 6mm, so use a 6mm bit. When you have drilled through the head you will just touch the copper washer. As soon as you see copper stop drilling and give the centre a sharp tap with a punch
 
I saw a variation on a EZ-out that looks like it might eliminate the anxiety of breaking it off in the stuck bolt. If you have a hole drilled in the bolt now maybe this is the tool to try with a little heat to coax it....:-k...

223927926p.jpg
 
Thanks guys and kudos to Mr hampshire. I followed your suggestion and once I found some sharp drill bits and remembered to drill the hole in increments it worked like a charm. So, thankfully, that is now sorted and the forks are ready to go back on.

Another day when I've learned a new skill. Many thanks to all.

cheers,
Spyug
 
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