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Stuck intake bolt

  • Thread starter Thread starter foxxx85
  • Start date Start date
F

foxxx85

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Ok, i got all but #3 intake boot screws out just fine. The two screws in cylinder 3 stripped beyond belief. I cut a slot using my dremel, but even then, the heads got mangled. i ended up cutting the heads off and popping the boot off over the studs. i was able then to extract the lower screw with vicegrips. But the top one is really jammed. When i twist with vice grips (as tight as i can go)it just rounds the stud. anyone have suggestions. I have squirted it with spray oil and tried heating with my blue flame. still nothing. A friend suggested tring to weld a nut to the stud...but i cant weld. Help please.

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When you heated it, were you working by yourself ? One of my valve cover screws broke off and although the heat worked, by the time I put down the flame and picked up the vice grips it cooled enough to quit turning. My lovely assistant used the flame and I worked the vise grips. I cussed the whole time....but got that sucker outta there. Then we replaced all those stupid phillips head screws with allen heads.:)
 
Keep working with heat and vice grips, wiggle back and forth to break the lock. Don't over do it though, there isn't a lot of material left there to work with. It looks pretty bad from the pic. you may need to find someone with a welder to weld a nut or a steel bar to the shaft to break it loose. Worst case scenario, a machine shop could get for you...:eek:

I was fortunate, same prob. with my #3, but only one screw. I was able to break it loose by hitting the edge of the boot with a 2x4 and hammer and spin it loose (per suggestions here :))

Don't panic, you'll get it!
 
should i be heating the stud. I have been hitting the case with heat. Thinking.... if the hole expands and the stud stays the same.... it will loosen... is that right?? or should i just shoot it where the stud meets the base
 
foxxx85 said:
should i be heating the stud. I have been hitting the case with heat. Thinking.... if the hole expands and the stud stays the same.... it will loosen... is that right?? or should i just shoot it where the stud meets the base
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Heat the case, it will expand faster than the stud. I forgot to second the comment on replacing the FAILipps head screws with allen screws, you'll be glad you did!
 
You want to heat the screw. It's not a matter of expansion of the metal, it's about breaking down the chemical bond of the corrosion holding it in place. Heat good and hot and let cool a smig before trying to turn it out.
 
yeah... i got the allen heads... although i think im gunna need a new boot now. i nicked the original with the dremel while cutting off the head of the screw. anyone got one???lol if i buy a new one... is it ok to jsut buy one or should i replace them all?
 
Nessism said:
You want to heat the screw. It's not a matter of expansion of the metal, it's about breaking down the chemical bond of the corrosion holding it in place. Heat good and hot and let cool a smig before trying to turn it out.
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To respectfully differ, my understanding is that the difference in expansion rates break the bond... Neither here nor there though, the end result should be the same. :)

is it ok to jsut buy one or should i replace them all?
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If you can afford it, might as well replace them all. If you do just one, remember that there are 2 different parts, right and left. (should be, you don't say what model of bike)
 
C.V. said:
To respectfully differ, my understanding is that the difference in expansion rates break the bond... Neither here nor there though, the end result should be the same. :)
Click to expand...
Heating the stud will expand it, crushing the corrosion. when it cools heat the case and remove.
 
OK.... I'm at a loss... I cannot get this out. i tried a small pipewrench.. but once it grabs the metal of the screw just whittles away. Ive tried heating it as hot as i can and hit it with PB'laster. I just cant gain any ground on this thing!! I dont know of anywhere that can drill and tap it for me and i don't have the $$ to have it done, even if i did.... I think i'm dinked here. To have it tapped i would have to remove the engine and take it to the shop. I've never removed an engine. WTF!!!
 
foxxx85 said:
OK.... I'm at a loss... I cannot get this out. i tried a small pipewrench.. but once it grabs the metal of the screw just whittles away. Ive tried heating it as hot as i can and hit it with PB'laster. I just cant gain any ground on this thing!! I dont know of anywhere that can drill and tap it for me and i don't have the $$ to have it done, even if i did.... I think i'm dinked here. To have it tapped i would have to remove the engine and take it to the shop. I've never removed an engine. WTF!!!
Click to expand...

Removing the engine is no sweat man. And you could just drill and try a helicoil kit on it rather than tapping it. Only problem you may run into is you need some thread in the screw hole to be able to install a heli coil.
 
Before you distroy that little stud sticking out find someone that can weld a nut onto it. Turn nut back and forth, with lots of PB Blaster, and eventually the broken screw will crack loose. Just don't force it or the screw will cheese off.
 
Get some one to mig weld a nut on there and put the negative clamp on the engine and weld on the stud (looks like this is a no brainer in this case). I always thought running the electricity through the threads helped. While still red hot get a wrench on there and turn it out. This works 9 out of 10 times.

The last do it yourself option, and I doubt you have enough room, is to grind flat, center punch and drill through the center, larger and larger then dremel the last bit and pull the threads out like a pig tail.

These two methods are all I can think of, next is to pull the head and take it to a machine shop or an EDM.
 
It's really, really hard to drill these out properly. The problem lies in keeping the bit centered in the much harder bolt material. It likes to wander to the softer aluminum, then you're screwed (no pun intended). I have to agree with those that suggest welding a nut on it.

Where are you? I doubt if you're close to me (middle of Colorado), but maybe someone is close that has a welder? I'd do it for a couple of beers.
 
i will try to find someone that can weld a nut on to the stud... i just dont know if there is enough of the stud work with. from trying to get the pipe wrench to grip it is pretty chewed up. i think it is going to twist right off even if i do get a nut on there... If i have to take it to a shop.. should i just take the head off or the whole engine off the frame???... i need to learn to weld
 
foxxx85 said:
i will try to find someone that can weld a nut on to the stud... i just dont know if there is enough of the stud work with. from trying to get the pipe wrench to grip it is pretty chewed up. i think it is going to twist right off even if i do get a nut on there... If i have to take it to a shop.. should i just take the head off or the whole engine off the frame???... i need to learn to weld
Click to expand...
I'd haul the entire bike in, no need to disassemble. Put in in the back of your (or a friends) pickup or trailer.
 
um.....

um.....

Ok... so i had someone come over that i had heard from multiple people that could drill and tap the hole for me. well.... not so go. he put the boot on usung the lower screw and used the hold on the boot as a guide. the boot shifted and he missed the mark and drilled a hole a little to the right of where the original was. Now, i can still put the boot on and the bolt in. Will i be ok if i use some black RTV or am i screwed? i can post a pic if need be.
 
If you can tighten the bolt down I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just use a new oring in the boot and you should be good. I would stay away from the RTV, the oring will seal it just fine.

If you can't get the bolt to tighten down then you may want to consider using Helicoils or something similar. I would almost bet that with one good, unbutchered bolt holding tight, the other side may not be so critical. Glad to hear you got it out.
 
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