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Stuck rear axle nut - what do I do?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fenixgoon
  • Start date Start date
F

Fenixgoon

Guest
1982 GS650G

In anticipation of new tires, I'm trying to get my wheels off. I started with the back, and I've gotten the shocks off, footpegs off, cotter pins, etc. It's impossible for me to loosen the rear axle nut though. I pulled off the exhaust in order to get some extra clearance, but it won't budge!:mad: For reference, I can begin to lift the rear of the bike with the shocks on without any bolt movement whatsoever.

I've used the following:

WD40
lube/penetrating spray
heat (small amounts anyway, from a hair dryer)

I really don't want to shear the axle bolt, as those are probably a bit hard to replace, so I've only tapped the nut with a hammer, not bashed away.. Do I have any options, or should I just cut off the axle nut with a dremel and order a new axle nut? In cutting, I'd simply remove as much of the nut as possible, then hit with a hammer so that the nut breaks but does not damage the threads on the axle bolt. Or at least that's what I had in mind, theoretically.

Oh great ones of GSR, I beg of you to help me. I am so close to a fully functioning, road-ready motorcycle. Hear my plea!! :D
 
Use a piece of pipe on the end of your adjustable wrench as a breaker bar. You'll either break it loose, or twist the thread off the bolt. I dont think the latter would likely happen.
 
Stubborn Nut

Stubborn Nut

Sounds like someone overtightened it. Use an impact wrench. If no luck there, warm the nut up with a propane torch, and try the impact again.
 
First, if your going to use heat, something more powerful than a hair dryer is necessary. A propane torch is good, one with MAP gas is better. MAP gas (yellow can) burns much hotter. For really stuck items, your goal is to get the item as hot as possible (without melting it, or surrounding area) and crack it loose. I've also heard of a different method, where you douse the hot object with cold water, thereby "shocking" the parts. I've even seen some penetrating lubes advertise it.

So..... what type of tool are you using? A long breaker bar? Usually thats all you need. Sometimes you have to cheat and put a pipe on the end.

I'm also wondering how you are lifting the bike when try to loosen the nut. Are you lifting it from behind? What side is the nut on?
 
Last edited:
+1 on the mapp gas. Keep the tip of the inner blue flame moving around the nut until it gets cherry or close to it. The heat will expand the nut and break the "seal" with the thread. Put the socket on it before it cools down, it will turn easier.

+1 on the tube extension to the breaker bar or ratchet. Leverage is your friend.

If you use the heat it is unlikely that you will break the axle so don't worry about that.

Give it a go and let us know when you get it off.

Good luck,
Spyug
 
bonanzadave said:
Me too. Get a 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar and stand on the bit(h !
Click to expand...

the nut is on the left side of the bike. therefore, a "left" rotation to loosen requires me to turn towards the front of the bike.

unless suzuki decided to reverse the thread direction, of course. the nut/pin combination on the right side has a standard left/loose right/tighten thread to it.
 
And if you trash the axle I can provide you with another. I have at least three in the parts box with nuts and washers. Something put on that tight or stressed to that degree should probably not be trusted. Torque back there is around 70 lbs/ft.

One question, you removed all trace of the cotter pin, right?
 
duaneage said:
And if you trash the axle I can provide you with another. I have at least three in the parts box with nuts and washers. Something put on that tight or stressed to that degree should probably not be trusted. Torque back there is around 70 lbs/ft.

One question, you removed all trace of the cotter pin, right?
Click to expand...

cotter pin came out, but it didn't play nice. i ended up using some penetrator spray and a hammer, just tapping the end of the pin until i was able to pull the bulb/top end and remove the pin entirely. it appeared to have come out in one piece.
 
I thought it was kinda weird to have one end rounded on axle bolts myself. I had to dremel off the big flat rounded end on one of mine once. I forget why exactly though. I DO remember bending a few screwdrivers trying to break it loose. The bolts should be fairly easy enough to replace if you end up needing to. Plus after fighting with it for a while, the sparks flying as you saw into it can be slightly therapeutic hehe.
 
Pass a long bolt though the hole and fasten a 3/8th box wrench on the end with a nut. A grade 5 bolt through the hole with a chrome vanadium wrench is not going to break.
 
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