• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

stupid me just for verification

  • Thread starter Thread starter refeicul
  • Start date Start date
R

refeicul

Guest
So last July I bought a ricks rr and stator. since ive been laid off for the winter ive had time to get the bike together. new rr and stator in carbs bench synched n all. i warm it up and going back and forth synching as best i can it dies at one point so i try and start it notice its cranking weak. i checked the voltage and its 11.9V wtf. the battery is a new glass mat battery with a 2yr guarantee no voltage drop off. all new connectors through out the bike. i checked output ac volts from the stator it was 57.9V. all three legs of the stator read 0.9ohms. charged and running the battery does not go to 13v at idle. Bad rr? and i know im going to get flack for not getting the series rr that steve posted about. but hey the ricks rr was fine on my 850 that i sold 2yrs ago...:oops:
 
Last edited:
Stator voltage is 57.9V, but at what RPM? Ye Olde Service Manuale says that at 5000 RPM, you should be getting at least 75 V from each leg. If you don't get that, you probably have a bad stator.

And just for reference, the proper voltage from the R/R should be 14-15.5V at 5000 RPM if all is working correctly.

But before doing anything else, put the battery on a charger and hope that deep cycling didn't kill it. Any electrical testing has to be done with a good (and fully charged) battery.
 
57.9v @ about 4k from each leg ill try @ 5k just sucks cause its a new freshly run stator and rr i know its not the greatest rr but today was the first run of it.
 
"...all three legs of the stator read 0.9ohms charged and running "

charge up battery and repeat AC tests leg to leg. But also measure voltage between any leg and good bike ground- it should be none or very low.Make sure you didn't pinch stator wires where they get clamped leaving stator core.
When you can , get a SH-775 - it will keep a charging system happier!
 
A couple things jump out at me.

First, battery being charged should have nothing to do with measuring stator resistance. In fact the stator must be disconnected from the R/R to make the measurement valid. You need to measure the resistance between each leg (three measurements) and also the resistance between the legs and ground (again three measurements). Edit: Just noticed that the charged battery part was a sentence run on into the next.

Second, make sure that the stator that was installed has the correct number of poles for the rotor on the bike. I have a 1980 1000 engine that had a 12 pole rotor. Some had 18 poles. If the 850 stator had 18 poles and the 1000 had 12 poles that would be the reason it's not working.

Third, proper use of punctuation (periods) can help us read your posts.
 
Ok breaking it down.
Bike off:
​

  • tested resistance of stator legs in relation to each other 1&2 2&3 1&3 0.9ohms across all three
  • tested each leg against engine ground no resistance found.

Bike Running:
​

  • @4k rpm disconnected from rr tested each leg in relation to each other 1&2 2&3 1&3 all three read 57v ac.
  • shut bike off reconnected stator to rr and started the bike again to test @ battery voltage and found at 12.3v and slowly dropping
  • disconnected red out from rr and tested out put voltage across the connection & got 0v

So i guess i should get a sh775 or equivalent like i should of in the first place.
 
You forgot to do the one leg to ground stuff while you were measuring AC leg to leg- this needs to be done running as it's a bigger voltage potential than a static multimeter resistance reading.
best to check,cuz the SH-775 can't deliver if stator doesn't do its job reasonably well.
 
Last edited:
Based on the known input voltages and no charge voltage, I'd say it's either a connection problem or a bad R/R. Yep, the SH-775 is your best next move.
 
tom203 said:
You forgot to do the one leg to ground stuff while you were measuring AC leg to leg- this needs to be done running as it's a bigger voltage potential than a static multimeter resistance reading.
best to check,cuz the SH-775 can't deliver if stator doesn't do its job reasonably well.
Click to expand...

Ok for some reason the fore mentioned test of taking a hot lead and grounding it seems bad in my brain. Intentionally shorting the stator??
 
refeicul said:
Ok for some reason the fore mentioned test of taking a hot lead and grounding it seems bad in my brain. Intentionally shorting the stator??
Click to expand...
Yes, that does sounds bad, but what I want is for you (during the running AC leg to leg) to put one meter probe on any stator lead and other meter probe on good bike ground. This is with your meter on same voltage position as used during the AC leg to leg stuff. This tests insulation of stator windings better than a simple resistance reading.
 
This thread is a prime example of why I created the "quick test".
 
Last edited:
He'll get it pretty soon! No sense throwing different r/r at it if stator is borderline due to bad day at Chinese factory.
 
The Stator and R/R where both new from Ricks motorsport electrics as of 7/2014. Either way I installed the SH775 and voltages are all good. I just had to file down a bit of one of the holes to fit original mounting. Thanks everyone for their input.
 
Don't be afraid to test charging system once in a while! Or consider an onboard voltmeter-it's nice to have warning signs of impending doom! The SH -775 can't do much if the stator fails. Most of these brand new stators are likely made in same factory with different colored goop applied so they know which company it goes to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top