Stupidest Question of the Month

[storm 64]

If you have a Seep, switch to synthetic and you'll have a Leak... In my experience with synthetic oil.

 

[Guest]

Be careful tighten the oil drain plug, those threads in the oil pan can strip really easy.

 

[Steve]

If you have a Seep, switch to synthetic and you'll have a Leak... In my experience with synthetic oil.

That is because the synthetic oil typically has better detergents in it, and they clean away the crud that is plugging that leak, and only allow it to seep. :-\\\

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks.

Synthetic oil is not more slippery.

Synthetic oil CURES a lot more problems than it causes.

.

 

[tkent02]

Synthetic oil CURES a lot more problems than it causes.

.

But if the engine is already in sad shape from decades of neglected oil changes, a whole bunch of old leaks plugged up by old baked on black sludge, there's not a whole lot synthetic oil will do for it.

 

[Steve]

True, it won't cure the cause of those leaks, but it is certainly not the reason they are there. :-\\\

.

 

[JerbGas]

hm...
I've never heard of switching to synthetic to open up leaks. i flushed a radiator once that opened up a hellstorm of hose leaks, but those were rubber hoses.
this is metal, but if any gaskets begin to leak, well, then i would have needed to replace them anyway.

 

[Grimly]

Suzuki (and other makes) have the charming design habit of relying on O-rings sitting in a groove and sandwiched between clamping faces. The notorious cylinder block bottom gasket leak is actually a defective old O-ring, which may have been happily doing its job for 20, 30 years, but the sudden influx of synthetics has prompted it to kick its heels up and depart this life.
I know, I have one just like that, and that's the reason. I don't think for a minute the synth oil caused it to shrink, but it was fine until last year, when I changed to synth full-time. Well, when I say fine, there was evidence of a tiny seep, but nothing worth bothering about. It's definitely at the stage where it will need attention soon.
On the other hand, the very same clean-up done by the synth oil has freed up and cleaned the ring packs very well indeed. So, it was a calculated risk, and one worth taking, as I knew from experience that O-ring would need replaced at some point.

 

[Steve]

You don't "switch to synthetic to open up leaks". Many times, when a switch is made to synthetic oil, a complaint is made that now the (bike, car, truck, whatever) now leaks oil, so the synthetic oil must have caused it.

What really happens is that the synthetic oil has more (or better) detergents, and they will wash away the crud that has been plugging a leak that has been there for a LONG time. The crud is so well-packed on there that it no longer leaks.

It's sort of like cutting yourself then scraping away the scab in a couple of days, it will start bleeding again.

.

 

[Wingsconsin]

I had a leak caused by Synthetic oils on my 1985 GL1200 Goldwing.
When I switched to the Synthetic oil I had several new leaks where the gaskets failed sealing.
I found out the Synthetic oil has greater "FLOW" properties - that is it moves through better than dino oil.
A small seep becomes a leak when oil FLOWS through the failed gasket.
Really it reveals your leak as it flows enough oil to be a problem...


http://www.topspeedracer.com/synthetic-vs-regular-oil.html

"Synthetic oils", which have been around since the 1970s, have the same natural ingredients as "regular oils" but they are distilled in a chemical plant where the concept of refining goes techno-geek. Try wrapping your head around the concept of ?synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains? and base fluids including ?polyalphaolefin, synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.? What the heck do all these terms mean? In plain english, they are the engineered basis for the synthetic oil qualities listed below.Synthetic oils:

• are all season and have multi-viscosity properties, some flowing as much as seven times faster than regular oil.
• can stand extremes of engine temperature (some above 400?F) more efficiently.
• can boost horsepower more effectively than thinner regular oils.
• can be used for intervals as long as 25,000 miles before requiring an oil change.
• contain fewer contaminants like sulfur, wax, and other elements that contribute to sludge build-up.

Of course, synthetic oils are more expensive and there are some things they don?t do, including:

• eliminate the need for oil changes.
• or eliminate engine wear.

The major advantage of synthetic oils is superior lubrication that significantly reduces engine wear over the long term.

:eagerness:Just my personal experience

 

[Nessism]

...are all season and have multi-viscosity properties, some flowing as much as seven times faster than regular oil.

Synthetic oil is subject to the same viscosity ratings as regular oil. It doesn't flow faster than a mineral oil of the same viscosity.

Synthetic oil often starts with a lower viscosity base stock than mineral oil though, so in that regards it flow better. For example, Rotella synthetic is 5W-40 and the mineral oil flavor is 15W-40. The 5W will flow faster than 15W, and that's better since it will make the oil pumps job easier and pressurize the engine faster when cold. The 5W oil will exploit oil leak paths better than 15W, so in that regards it may leak more easily. I don't fault the oil though.

 

[JerbGas]

i find it funny this thread went from figuring out the size of the oil drain plug to a debate over synthetics.
If you guys think it really will make that much of a difference, I still have the receipt for the synthetic oil.
But would there be equally as concerning drawbacks of using conventional?

I have not found the correct size for the drain plug yet.
I dont know why i didnt just measure it in the first place.
It's definitely larger than 21mm though. Maybe something around 26mm?
Whenever it stops raining I'll just measure it. Been raining for the past 4 days, no clear skies in sight until tuesday.
Sucks because its only a month or two until the bike goes in the garage and then the rain would make no difference. Ah the hold ups of motorcycle repair...

 

[Grimly]

i find it funny this thread went from figuring out the size of the oil drain plug to a debate over synthetics.

The OIL Thread is always waiting in the wings, like a badly-compressed cheap suspension unit, just ready to pop its guts.

 

[Guest]

i find it funny this thread went from figuring out the size of the oil drain plug to a debate over synthetics.
If you guys think it really will make that much of a difference, I still have the receipt for the synthetic oil.
But would there be equally as concerning drawbacks of using conventional?



Anytime when the word oil creeps into a post, you can bet on it.

 

[60ratrod]

the biggest concern I have with TODAYs oils is they lack the necessary levels of zinc and phosphorus to maintain out flat tappet cam shafts. that's why everyone here recommends the diesel engine oils, they have sufficient amounts to keep our cams going. it's really bad in the old automobile flat tappet engines.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Be careful tighten the oil drain plug, those threads in the oil pan can strip really easy.

Unless you re-enforce the thread like you had done for me Bill. I have 2 oil pan covers, one installed and one waiting in the wings for my parts bike.

I use Rotella synthetic and it works great on my "T". No clutch issues.

Ed

 

[exdirtbiker]

Oil debates are like Herpes.. they never really go away.

 

[JerbGas]

Well folks. It turns out the oil drain plug was a 24mm.
But it prompted me to get my own 1/2 rachet as I was using my roommate's.
Anyone know how good Duralast tools are? With the exception of the sockets not having all those teeth like the Snap-Ons I used to use, they seem pretty good.

 

[exdirtbiker]

Anyone know how good Duralast tools are?

any tool that works is "good enough"... until it fails. Craftsman is now made in China !
I have a bunch of Harbor freight stuff. They work. But I never ask them to work hard.
When I put my body weight, and a cheater bar on a tool... it's old and MADE IN USA.
The others above will fail every time. and remove skin from knuckles / arms / scalp. Or worse.

 

[Grimly]

Yep; worth keeping an eye open at garage sales and flea markets for good used tools with plenty of life in them. Compared to what they cost new, you'd pick up some real bargains for pennies on the dollar.
On another forum, a member has just announced he was the only bidder at a farm auction on a metal plasma spraying machine that normally sells new for ?35K - nobody else there knew what it was (mostly farmers who wouldn't have been versed in it). He got it for ?20.

 

[hannibal]

Since Rotella has been mentioned frequently, what are the opinions on Rotella T triple protection? Everyone mentions the T5 semi and T6 full synthetic, but what about the regular stuff in 15W40?