Suddenly sick GS1000G motor

[Anonymous]

Hi Folks,

My 1981 GS1000 motor has decided to become very ill.

I used some engine oil flush to clean out the motor last weeked. Then
some new oil, a new filter. I also used some Nulon Stop Leak to control
oil leaking and smoke and to condition the valve stem seals. This will
also do the teflon thing to metal surfaces. (Nulon is an Australian product but I imagine you guys get it, or similar, in US and Europe as well.)

Then I hit the start button. After a difficult start the motor ran
unhappily. I pulled out of the yard with more difficulty on a very
reluctant bike. The thing had no compression and wouldn't rev past about
3,000. I did about 70 kms that afternoon, and by that time I was getting
to 5,000rpm but no power on hills. What used to run like a 1000cc bike
now ran like a 125.

I think the compression must have been relying on the gunge and carbon
deposits I flushed out of the motor. I am now waiting to see if more kms
will allow the Nulon to work and fill some gaps and see if I get my old
motor back.

Does anyone know of a product that will "re-gunge" the thing? I really
don't want to have to pull the motor down and replace rings and/or valve
stems etc if I can do a chemical repair.

Thanks
Kim

 

[saaz]

Kim

I have flushed my bike and used Nulon years ago. The stop leak will not do the teflon things..seems there is great doubts about the benefit of that!

I would try dropping the oil and putting in a fresh lot. The rings etc should not have been affected by the engine flush (which is mostly kero I believe). The rings rely on ring pressure to seal, so compressionj should have been unaffected. Also look at the oil filter in case there are blockages, although not much oil is needed to get these things going.

Perplexing...

 

[Anonymous]

Maybe you need to have a look at your valve clearances. Maybe you managed to change them with alll of that witches brew. I have only used that stuff on shot motors to keep them running until I could afford to replace them. As Saaz said you should also change your oil. Basically, undo everything you did.

Steve

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

check the spark plugs you may have fouled them with all the aditives you put in it. Don't run any additives Just clean oil with regular oil changes

 

[Anonymous]

...seems there is great doubts about the benefit of that!

There is no doubt on this question! The US Government finally got around to suing the Slick 50 people for false advertizing. That much-hyped research they said supported their claims was non-existent or misleading. As part of the lawsuit settlement, Slick 50 were made to stop making outrageous claims for the product, like teflon would bond/coat engine parts or that it would reduce wear on startup by 50%. Check out their website at www.slick50.com and see how muted their advertising is now. That telflon, a solid, can also plug your oil filter and oil journals. As a rule, you might as well have a witchdoctor shake bones over your bike (or car) as to use engine oil additives. By the way, there are no real psychics!

 

[Anonymous]

Update

Update

Hi Folks,

Thanks for your replies.

I'm not worried about the teflon additive at the moment, considering that I was cleaning out a motor that had about a handful of highly visible metal dust and chips that had been left there after a previous owner had repaired a holed piston.

I used the oil flush as I was concerned that any carbon build-up (especially in the rings) was clogged with metal and therefore highly abrasive. I found the metal bits gunged into a layer on the sump plate, some of them were almost a centimetre across. I've referred to them and posted a pic on a previous thread on this forum.

Today I checked the motor again. I've got oil dripping lightly from No 2 exhaust flange, so I suspect the valve stem and/or seal is gone.

When I pull plug 1 or 4 at fast idle 1,5000rpm the motor stops.
When I pull plug 2 or 3 it revs up from fast idle to about 4,000 rpm. Putting the plug on again makes it rev down.

I think it might have jumped the cam chain. So I will check that on the weekend. I guess that means lifting the tank and cam cover. Any advice for me on that score?


Thanks again.
Kim

 

[Anonymous]

KK, if ever there was a candidate for an engine rebuild, this is it. With all that has happened to this engine I think it deserves it. Maybe you could acquire a complete used unit to fit instead?
Thats what I'd do anyway. Just my opinion, good luck anyway.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Folks,

I took the lid off today and found that the cam chain had jumped a tooth and the cam timing was retarded by a tooth's worth.

Got that fixed, and found in the process that a camshaft clamp bolt had been stripped. I'll get the thread repair done, wait for the cam cover gasket to arrive, and I should be back to normal.

Also checked out the cam chain tensioner so this thing shouldn't happen again.

Kim

 

[first timer]

Cam Chain Jump

Cam Chain Jump

did you notice if the #2 and #3 exhust pipes were cooler then the 1 and 4 pipes ? i'm trying to figure if i have dirty carbs or if i jumped a chain. Mine is only running on 1 and 4 i can pull plug 2 and 3 and it still runs no prob and the 2 and 3 pipes stay cooler then the outer two when first started, thanks

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Cam Chain Jump

Re: Cam Chain Jump

did you notice if the #2 and #3 exhust pipes were cooler then the 1 and 4 pipes ? i'm trying to figure if i have dirty carbs or if i jumped a chain. Mine is only running on 1 and 4 i can pull plug 2 and 3 and it still runs no prob and the 2 and 3 pipes stay cooler then the outer two when first started, thanks

Sorry, didn't notice.

Kim

 

[saaz]

2 and 3 share a coil, so probably electrical problem. Do 2 and 3 spark at all? A jumped can chain affects all cylinders equally.

 

[Anonymous]

2 and 3 share a coil, so probably electrical problem. Do 2 and 3 spark at all? A jumped can chain affects all cylinders equally.

Yeah, I thought of that after I got my head clear of setting the cam chain on properly. The cam chain might even had been like that since an earlier repair (not by me). Do these things run with retarded cams? One tooth is 12.8 degrees on the cam or 6.5 on the crankshaft.

So it's off to the coil test next.

Did a compression test, didn't like the results of that at all. Looks like one valve is shot. I've got the test results under another thread title.

Kim

 

[saaz]

In standard form they should run a tooth off, but they would feel a bit lacking. If oil/fluid was coming from one cylinder perhaps that valve is a bit shot (seal and guide gone).

Mine jumped a tooth a while bak while I was doing the valves (my carelessness), but as I have high lift cams the rusults could have been disasterous!!