Suggestions for starting old GS550E

[BuckarooBanzai]

Greetings-

I am looking at buying a 1980 GS550E. The owner claims it has sat for several years. It still turns over but hasnt started yet. He has a clean title for it & only wants $350.00 . It is in clean shape- almost as good as my GS1000E. I was thinking of buying this for my daughter. Any suggestions for trying to get this thing started? Assuming it still has spark & compression, whats the chances I will have to have the carbs gone through?

Buckaroo Banzai

 

[Nessism]

... whats the chances I will have to have the carbs gone through?

Buckaroo Banzai

100%... if you love your daughter that is and don't want her to get stranded on the road somewhere.:-k

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. BuckarooBonzai,

Yes, you should know the drill by now. Here it is, in the words of the lovely and talented Mr. bwringer...


Every GS850 [and most other models] has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
**********End Quote***************


Do it right the first time and it will give you years of trouble-free operation. Don't forget to check the charging system, clean all electrical connections and grounds, change all fluids, new tires and brakes if necessary.



Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff

 

[BuckarooBanzai]

550 Starting issues

550 Starting issues

Thanks for your in depth reply. We did in fact buy the 550. Seller gave it to us for $320.oo, which included the bike loading ramp. The bike supposedly had a valve job prior to parking and sat for 3 to 5 years. seller had tried to start the bike about a year prior to sale. We got it home and worked on it the following day. Initial attempt to start was unsucessful but soon discovered no gas was getting to carbs. This turned out to be a bad valve on the tank. We rigged a drip bottle and got it started up. Bike doesnt want to idel down, runs between 2500 -3500 rpm. I did run it down the street & back. Seems to shift through all gears, no cluch noise. Cant put my finger on what the engine feels like, sort of like maybe all the gas isnt being consumed. Going to take a look and see if choke cable is tuck. Drop me a line w/ any further suggestions

 

[Guest]

Cant put my finger on what the engine feels like, sort of like maybe all the gas isnt being consumed.

i guess it must feel like 1/2 of your 1000e

seriously though, everything you need to look at is on that list from mr bwringer, so just start eliminating the suspects and it should come up right in no time!

 

[Steve]

i guess it must feel like 1/2 of your 1000e

seriously though, everything you need to look at is on that list from mr bwringer, so just start eliminating the suspects and it should come up right in no time!

And, ... don't check it off the list because the previous owner said it was done. Only check it off if you did it yourself.

Here is the quote from bwringer, with my comments in blue:

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
These are available from http://cycleorings.com/. Less thn $5, but e-mail Robert at cycleorings to make sure he has your size rings.
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
Carbs need to be removed to evaluate the boots, but you will need to remove the carbs for cleaning, anyway. Not cheap at $15-20 each, but priceless in the way the bike runs if the old ones are bad.
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
I don't care if the previous owner showed you a receipt from a shop, showing this has just been done. Do it yourself and know that it was done right. Send me an e-mail with a request and I will send you a copy of my Excel spreadsheet that will help you with the calculations.
4. Carb/airbox boots
Like the intake boots, the carbs need to be removed to evaluate these. Fortunately, these are cheaper than the intake boots.
5. Airbox sealing
The carbs are designed to have a certain amount of restriction in the filter area to work correctly. If air is allowed to enter through places it was not intended, carburetion will be upset.
6. Air filter sealing
Like #5, but this adds the possibility of breathing unfiltered air.
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
You already experienced a stuck valve. It might be possible to clean that so it works well, I did with mine. If the diaphragm that pulls the valve open leaks, don't waste money on a repair kit, get a complete new petcock assembly. Probably about $60.
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
You already have electronic ignition from the factory. No need to worry about points, but you might still have dirty connections in the coil wires or the spark plug wires.
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
See comment for #8.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
The biggest 'gotcha' here is removing the bolts from the header. Spray liberally with penetrating oil, then remove them. Because they live in a very warm environment, they break far too easily after being undisturbed for several years.

Carburetor maintenance:
This step can not be stressed enough and should not be skipped, even though you think the bike is running well. You stated that it had been parked for several years. This step might be necessary if the bike had only been parked for several months, if it had not been stored properly.

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
Cost for supplies:
Can of Berryman's carb cleaner dip $20-25
Can or two of carb cleaner spray #3-5 each
Complete set of carb o-rings less than $15
Intake boot o-rings, less than $5
Stainless screws for intake boots, less than $7
Manometer to sync carbs, $85-130 (A shop will charge this much to do the job once. Buy the tool and you can do it again, for free.)

 

[Redman]

Great find. Congratulations.

You discoverd #7 on bwringers list. With the high idle I think you are about to discover #1 on the list.

Other clue that #1 is a problem: if after it warms up the idle is so high that you turn down the throttle idle set on the carbs (under carbs actaully), then next ime you start it (when engine cold) then the idle is way too low so you have to adjust the throttle idle set again but then when engine is warm again then the idle is way too high again ........... thats one clue.
.

 

[Guest]

as suggested, the first thing to look for would be an intake leak