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Suspension Advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter jacora
  • Start date Start date
J

jacora

Guest
Regarding the progressive fork springs, I already have a set to be installed, but, the question is: It is really a good improvement (in addition to progressives) to install Racetech emulators??

Which model of shocks is better for rear??

Also, (I know) which is the correct way to fill the forks with air and the correct pressure??

The bike is 1983 GS1100E
 
Yes it is worth it.

Yes it is worth it.

If you are over 200 lbs then progressive and racetech emulators work well with 15 wt oil. Ask me how I know :D.

See this thead for a discussion. If you are lighter consider getting racetech springs or you might have to cut down your progressives some.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=121271&highlight=cartridge+emulator&page=4


Ohlins are the best. Katman has a pair: :rolleyes:
$750.00
OHLINS SHOCKS, brand new in the box and ready to go

http://www.robwilton.com/xsales.html
 
Last edited:
With the Progressive springs, you do not really need any air pressure. The fork seals seem to last much longer with 0 psi too.
Tony.
 
Ohlins

Ohlins

I agree with Posplayr You can't go wrong with the Ohlins, I bought this set from Katman for $750 a few months ago. Viewed a post just recently. I believe he still has some available. Well worth the money!

ohlins1.jpg
 
posplayr said:
If you are lighter consider getting racetech springs or you might have to cut down your progressives some.
Click to expand...

Cutting down a coil spring makes it stiffer, not less stiff. If the Progressives are too stiff you will need to use an alternate spring with a lighter rate. The racetech ones are a good option.

Yes, emulators are a fantastic improvement over the damper rod system. They are great for any weight of rider and offer a plush, more controlled ride than possible with the original forks.


Mark
 
Mark

Mark

Cutting down a coil spring makes it stiffer, not less stiff. If the Progressives are too stiff you will need to use an alternate spring with a lighter rate. The racetech ones are a good option.
Click to expand...

I agree on the first point; springs rates increase with cutting length. However on the second point it is a definite maybe. We have had members here post on cutting Progressive springs for this exact GS1100EZ/ED application when adding Racetech emulators to existing Progressive Springs.

For my weight (200lbs), I was able to stuff the Progressive spring, with the additional 14 mm of stack height of the Racetech emulator into the tube. I have preload setting to the lowest level and while it is firm to stiff, the handling is excellent.

However I can imagine if someone is lighter than this it will be too stiff and the static preload is just too high. Yes the better option would be to do Racetech springs which are presumably shorter to account for the emulators. However, another member has described reducing the length, which allows them to reduce the preload force more than the increase due to spring rate increasing.

The apparent paradox is explained by the fact that even if I'm increasing spring stiffness of the stiffest Racetech spring from 0.95 Kg/mm to 98 Kg/mm (by removing 14 mm), the reduction of 14 mm of preload is removing about 13.8 Kg of preload because the shorter spring is now being compressed less.

It would be better to get the right spring rate from Racetech, but some have worked around this as described.

Pos
 
posplayr said:
However I can imagine if someone is lighter than this it will be too stiff and the static preload is just too high.
Click to expand...

I see what the problem is. This has nothing to do with the spring rate and everything to do with too much preload. In that case, cutting the springs is a reasonable thing to do. I cut nearly 4" off my Progressives to increase the rate near to what I wanted. I would have preferred to use the straight rate Racetech springs, but I couldn't get them up here at the time. I got the PS springs up to around 0.93kg/mm, which is still not as stiff as I would like but isn't too bad.

Mark
 
posplayr said:
I agree on the first point; springs rates increase with cutting length. However on the second point it is a definite maybe. We have had members here post on cutting Progressive springs for this exact GS1100EZ/ED application when adding Racetech emulators to existing Progressive Springs.

For my weight (200lbs), I was able to stuff the Progressive spring, with the additional 14 mm of stack height of the Racetech emulator into the tube. I have preload setting to the lowest level and while it is firm to stiff, the handling is excellent.

However I can imagine if someone is lighter than this it will be too stiff and the static preload is just too high. Yes the better option would be to do Racetech springs which are presumably shorter to account for the emulators. However, another member has described reducing the length, which allows them to reduce the preload force more than the increase due to spring rate increasing.

The apparent paradox is explained by the fact that even if I'm increasing spring stiffness of the stiffest Racetech spring from 0.95 Kg/mm to 98 Kg/mm (by removing 14 mm), the reduction of 14 mm of preload is removing about 13.8 Kg of preload because the shorter spring is now being compressed less.

It would be better to get the right spring rate from Racetech, but some have worked around this as described.

Pos
Click to expand...

I can see, I am 200# like you should have no problems.
Thanks very much for your advice.
 
jwhelan65 said:
I agree with Posplayr You can't go wrong with the Ohlins, I bought this set from Katman for $750 a few months ago. Viewed a post just recently. I believe he still has some available. Well worth the money!
Click to expand...

Ohlins seems to be very expensive for now.
What about Progressive Suspension 12 Series Shocks??
Progressive is a well known brand and prices are more accessible. They are about $225
 
jacora said:

What about Progressive Suspension 12 Series Shocks??
Click to expand...

Thats what I have with HD Springs set to the #2 preload setting. You lose the dampening adjust but not a big deal for me. I realize its an old GS not a GSXR.
 
For 99% of riders, Progressive or Hagon rear shocks will do just fine. If you take your bike to the roadrace track, you might need additional adjustment and fade resistance offered with piggyback shock from Ohlins, Works Performance, etc....

These Works Performance Vintage Pro Racer shocks are beautiful, IMHO....

vintage_pair_pro_racer_drs_rha_1010x700.jpg
 
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