Suzuki GS1000 Fuel mixture screws

[madreg]

Hi, when I had my carbs apart (VM) and foolishly removed the fuel mixture screws without taking a note of their position (different story) I did notice that the tips of a couple of the screws were slightly bent. Does anybody know if this would cause a problem to the carburation?

If the recommendation is to replace the bent ones can you buy these individually rather than part of an expensive kit.

Bike actually idles and has plenty of pull although just off idle when pulling away it hesitates slightly.

Regards

 

[Agemax]

yes you would need to replace them, i think suzuki still sell them but also most members here get them from Z1 enterprises

 

[Guest]

Straightening would most likely break the tip. They can be replaced. This is a good site for gaskets and parts, make your shipping charges count: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...n=Fuel+screw+-+Mikuni+VM+carb&item=SIK-1157SK

 

[madreg]

Thanks to you both - did look at the picture on the Z1 site and it shows a very fine point on the needle - all mine must be broken as they are not like this.

Are these easy to break if over-tightened?

Cheers

 

[Agemax]

Thanks to you both - did look at the picture on the Z1 site and it shows a very fine point on the needle - all mine must be broken as they are not like this.

Are these easy to break if over-tightened?

Cheers

yes, short answer, when setting them they should be lightly seated before turning out to the desired setting.
unfortunately some peoples idea of lightly seating is screw them in as tight as they can. that breaks the tips off, then usually results in a stuck screw which then cannot be removed..........

 

[Big T]

over tightening not only breaks the tips, but can distort the seats and cause an over rich condition

 

[madreg]

Will replace them all, hope no damage to seats etc.

Thanks

 

[Guest]

Look in the throats of the carburetors over where the pilot fuel screw is. If they are all broken they may still be stuck in there. Tapping on the point should release it to fall out of the seat.

 

[madreg]

Will have a look at the week-end and let you know, cheers

 

[Big T]

Check the "what do these pictures tell me thread" for some info

 

[lemonshindig]

I have the same issue, three out of four are broken. However, my fuel mixture screws do not look like these:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...n=Fuel+screw+-+Mikuni+VM+carb&item=SIK-1157SK

They look like the ones shown here:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/pilot_screw_removal.pdf

I have a '79 GS1000. Are these interchangeable?

Thanks
-Matt

 

[chuck hahn]

Z1 lists the pointed ones for the KZ 1000 ( If I remember right )...which are the same ones you need.

 

[madreg]

All, just to update you on what I have done.

Managed to get all the fuel mixture screws out (see pic), purchased 4 x overhaul kits from NRP, excellent service and quality of the parts is also excellent, link below.

http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=gs1000&product_id=153

Carbs back on and difficulty starting, seems like it was flooding although when warmed up the pickup was much improved as was the tick-over. Remembered that the choke jet / tubes were cracked when I had the carbs apart, separate thread on this forum indicated these being cracked could cause over-fueling on the choke. Have now soldered the cracks (see pic) not very tidy but hopefully this will work, will let you know how I get on.

PS I did look at the instructions by "Hoomgar" to remove the broken mixture screw tips but did not have the tools he has. I used a socket extension bar as a lever to ease the tips flush with the carb body, I then used a small woodscrew as it has a hard sharp point, held with a pair of pliers to push the tip through. Worked on all four and no damage.

 

[madreg]

Here is pick of soldered choke jet / tube

 

[chuck hahn]

Doesnt matter that it is soldersed..what matters is that its clear, Should be a tiny pin hole in the bottom and holding up to a light you should see a speck of light down the tube. Ever so so slightly pinch the end with the big holes and reinsert it back into the carb body. Give it a few seating taps with a plastic screw driver handle.

If its hanging up in the bowl, just file the solder down till it goes in.

 

[Guest]

Keep in mind that all of your fuel mixture seats have been ruined. They are a good bit larger than design. I would start them out at 1/4 turn to begin with from lightly seated. All your fuel needle adjustments are going to be in further than carburetors with good needle seats because of the expanded holes. They will still work, but may never be just right. On a good set of carburetors the tips of the needles lightly seated is just visible below the hole in the throat of the carburetor. I imagine with new needles, lightly seated, they will stick up in the throat of the carburetor. Depending on how much will give you an idea of how much closer to seated you need to be to emulate a normal set when you go to adjust them.