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syncing carbs w/ pods

first timer

first timer

Forum Sage
do i still follow the the owner manuel for what needs to be for carbs (ie. #1 #4 carbs mercry stic even and carbs #2 #3 mercry stic even and higher then the other two. )

oh yeah anyone have a competion baffel for a mac exhuast for sale?

Ryan
 
Not if you have a 4 into 1 exhaust and single air pods. I had to use the following settings for my 1979 750 with the same setup as you.

Needle - Clip on top notch

Mixture screw - 1 turn out

Air screw - 1 turn out

If you do not have slide carbs than these settings will not apply but know this. The pods allow more air in which will cause you to burn rich and at idle too long might foul the spark plugs. You will need to reduce air mixture screw a bit. Maybe 1/4 turn.

I think your bike has CV type carbs and the mixture, fuel, and air screws are all different but the principle still applies about more air flow.

Louie
 
DUH !!!! I just read your post again. You are syncing the carbs. !! Hee Hee. Pay no attention to the bulls**t I just typed. Feeling stupid now. I have never synced my own carbs. Always get them damn close by measurement. Sorry to have lead you down the wrong path. I am sure EARL will be by to post some info for you.

Going to go crawl in stupid hole now. :oops:

Louie
 
I don't have an answer but you have raised a question for me. I am going to synch my GFs 81 GS 650GL as soon as I get good weather. She has stock filter set-up bgut I just installed a MAC 4 into 2 exhaust. I thought that all 4 carbs should have the mercury at the same height. Is there something I don't know about?
 
I believe that the pods will cause the bike to run lean. Have i missed somethiong at the idle speed??
 
let me add some more info, i have a stage 3 jet kit a mac 4 into 1 and 4 indivual air pods. with these mods i don't know what settings i need for syncing my carbs ( i'm talking mercy stix levels) i am satisfied with my mixture screws and i also realize i will need to raise or lower my needles to achieve the burn im looking for but for now what levels do i need for the stixs? middle high, outside low? or flat arcossed
 
first timer said:
let me add some more info, i have a stage 3 jet kit a mac 4 into 1 and 4 indivual air pods. with these mods i don't know what settings i need for syncing my carbs ( i'm talking mercy stix levels) i am satisfied with my mixture screws and i also realize i will need to raise or lower my needles to achieve the burn im looking for but for now what levels do i need for the stixs? middle high, outside low? or flat arcossed
Click to expand...
I DONT THINK YOU NEED MERCURY STICK LEVELS. IT IS A MATTER OF MAKING ALL THE CARBS READ THE SAME. Your mixture being too lesn or rich will be evident in the color of your spark plugs when haven been driven under normal conditions for a nice enjoyable ride. high speed jets are done a bit diferently
BTW ewat size carbs do you have on there now??
 
you need to sync the the carbs, if i didn't sync them the bike runs like .... and i can't idle it low. you use the mercry stixs to measure the amount of air going into the motor from the carbs and all 4 carbs have to be dumping the same amount of air with in reason into the motor. you use the needels and mixture screws to adjust the fuel/air mix. the snycing ensures evey piston gets the right about of the air/fuel mixture. i was wondering that since i removed the air box and am using pods do the levels of air (as shown with mercry stixs) need to even or offset as shown in the factory manuel. my thinking the air flow has to be the same now becuase the there is no airbox any more to allter the flow of air to the carbs. nothin personal slowpoke but you are still running a airbox so the air distrubtion to the carbs is still the same you just get more because you have a bigger filter. so your mercury stixs should read low outside levels and higher middle two levels. where i have 4 pods and each carb can get equal amounts of air distrubution. with a air box the center two carbs get first shot at any air coming and the outter two carbs have to wait there turn so to speak to get air.

am i right with this theory? i am looking foward to some replies and feed back from people that run pods and what their mercury stix levels would look like and what has worked for them.
 
I just leveled mine, and it seems to work fine. I have pods, and 4 into 1. Don't know if it's right, but that's what I did.
 
I run mine the same('83 GS750es) and I have a Stage 3 kit, with K&N pods, 4-1 Mac header. Seems to run fine. Idles smooth with no dead spots in the RPM range.
 
Ryan,

I just asked the same question to a mechanic this weekend. His answer was yes, sync the carbs as stated in the manual. The reason for this is the middle two cylinders run hotter than the outer two. The higher vaccum means more air/fuel mixture and helps to balance the heat in the engine.

Steve
 
Wheelie has it right. The inside 2 carbs should be slightly lower on vaccum.
 
Wheelie said:
Ryan,

I just asked the same question to a mechanic this weekend. His answer was yes, sync the carbs as stated in the manual. The reason for this is the middle two cylinders run hotter than the outer two. The higher vaccum means more air/fuel mixture and helps to balance the heat in the engine.

Steve
Click to expand...

Not to stir a hornets nest, but the Haynes manual says the middle two should be set lower because of the stock air filter system. If you remove the filter you should set them level. (I'm just reporting it).
 
re-evalueateing my factory service manuel and clymer manuel both books have the outside levels higher and the middle two levels slightly lower, by about a 1/8th. that is for a bike with a stock setup. i applogize if i may have led some down a wrong path prior. hopeful we can get this settled.
 
I've owned 2 brands of mercury gauges and they both said for Suzuki's,make all 4 as level as possible. I think the different levels is peculiar to the Suzuki steel ball gauge. KK.
 
With the newer CV type carbs, the middle two balls (cylinders #2 and #3) should be half the diameter of the ball LOWER than the two outside ones (cylinders #1 and #4). That is with the stock induction and exhaust.
 
I have sync'n d my 1150 38 flatslides every year since installation. I alyaws try to get them level at about 3500 to 4000 rpm. That is were I do most of my every day driving. The few times I gave up when I thought they were " close enough" the bike ran rougher and had a slight vibration . When I get all cylinders level on the mercury carb stix it runs great.

skip
 
I may be wrong on this but..... If your mixture settings are correct then the synchronisation is all a matter of how it performs on the road. Do it like the manual says go for a run and then do them all level and see which is prefferable.
 
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