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T# Mark for valve adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tompasio
  • Start date Start date
T

Tompasio

Guest
The manual says rotate the crank so the T#-Mark on the signalplate aligns with the other mark.WHAT OTHER MARK,Do they mean the tip of
the 1-4 pick up coil?
 
Sounds like you have a bogus manual, look at the Suzuki one online.
You turn the crank until the cams line up as pictured.
 
There are nothes at the end of the camshafts. They will be pointed at each other or away from each other.
I don't uses this. I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time.
 
chef1366 said:
There are nothes at the end of the camshafts. They will be pointed at each other or away from each other.
I don't uses this. I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time.
Click to expand...
Depends on what motor youre talking about. The 8valvers dont have notches that you line up...the 16's do...
 
Kid, I use the same method as Chef: " I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time." , the base of the lobe.
Would this not work for the 16 valve engines as well?

Eric
 
67fire said:
Kid, I use the same method as Chef: " I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time." , the base of the lobe.
Would this not work for the 16 valve engines as well?

Eric
Click to expand...
I have a sixteen valve.
 
Not sure if there is really any difference, but what bike are you working on? :-k

This is yet another example of why it is nice to put your bike in your signature line. :pray:

However, this is what you will typically see:
Timingmarks.jpg


.
 
67fire said:
Kid, I use the same method as Chef: " I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time." , the base of the lobe.
Would this not work for the 16 valve engines as well?

Eric
Click to expand...
ACtually, according to Suzuki, thats the incorrect method of adjustment. Its also NOT how Chef is doing his.

On the 16v motors, there is a notch at the end of each cam (incidently only on the right side...) To adjust exhaust 1,2,4 and intake 3 you face the notches away from eachother...to do intake 1,2,4 and exhaust 3 you face them in toward eachother...

According to Suzuki, on an 8v motor, you spin the cam untill the lobes on the side of the bike you are working on are one up and one flat. This prevents the adjacent lobe from pushing on the adjacent valve and spring, putting a load on the cam and possibly screwing up your measurments. Doing it your way also makes you have to turn the motor many more times by hand. But, to be honest, ive done it the way you are doing, and then went back and did it by the book..no change in my measurement, at least as far as the feeler gauges could discern.
 
TheCafeKid said:
ACtually, according to Suzuki, thats the incorrect method of adjustment. Its also NOT how Chef is doing his.

On the 16v motors, there is a notch at the end of each cam (incidently only on the right side...) To adjust exhaust 1,2,4 and intake 3 you face the notches away from eachother...to do intake 1,2,4 and exhaust 3 you face them in toward eachother...

According to Suzuki, on an 8v motor, you spin the cam untill the lobes on the side of the bike you are working on are one up and one flat. This prevents the adjacent lobe from pushing on the adjacent valve and spring, putting a load on the cam and possibly screwing up your measurments. Doing it your way also makes you have to turn the motor many more times by hand. But, to be honest, ive done it the way you are doing, and then went back and did it by the book..no change in my measurement, at least as far as the feeler gauges could discern.
Click to expand...
I don't use the notches. I point each cam lobe away from the valve.
 
chef1366 said:
I don't use the notches. I point each cam lobe away from the valve.
Click to expand...
Well, then according to the Manual, you're doing it incorrectly...Again, not that it matters, just makes for more turning of the motor. If you do it by the notches, you only have to move the cams two times to do all the valves..
 
TheCafeKid said:
Well, then according to the Manual, you're doing it incorrectly...Again, not that it matters, just makes for more turning of the motor. If you do it by the notches, you only have to move the cams two times to do all the valves..
Click to expand...
With my longer duration cams some of the valves have little pressure on them using this method.
I did use this method with stock cams. I should of been clearer.
 
Steve said:
Not sure if there is really any difference, but what bike are you working on? :-k

This is yet another example of why it is nice to put your bike in your signature line. :pray:

However, this is what you will typically see:
Timingmarks.jpg


.
Click to expand...

Tompasio,

Steve is answering your question, while the others are talking to each other
 
blowerbike said:
you could have center punched the front and rear on the head and valve cover in the cam chain area..
helps hold the gasket from pushing out anyways.
Click to expand...
why not just drill and tap some allen head bolts into it? Or just WELD the cover to the head. Screw it. its a 16v it doesnt need adjusted anyways.
 
TheCafeKid said:
why not just drill and tap some allen head bolts into it? Or just WELD the cover to the head. Screw it. its a 16v it doesnt need adjusted anyways.
Click to expand...

center punch so much easier and can be done on bike to help prevent 20 bolt VC leakage.
you have much to learn grasshopper:D
 
blowerbike said:
center punch so much easier and can be done on bike to help prevent 20 bolt VC leakage.
you have much to learn grasshopper:D
Click to expand...
uhhh...dude. Who in F's sake would WELD a valve cover to a head???? Its called sarcasm. Look it up. And, I was aware of the punch fix for the 20 bolt head. IMO its a waste of time, when there are thousands of 24 bolt heads available on ebay every month.
 
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