Tachometer lubrication

[rockhammer]

Hello

Do tachometers need to be lubed inside? I just had my cable break and it was making a winding noise inside the tach. I am not sure if there is resistance in there and it caused the cable to snap. I did lubricate the cable prior to the noise and after but it snapped today. Not sure if I need a new gauge or if I can just lube this one and buy a new cable. Any help would be great.

 

[rustybronco]

Tachometers are a sealed for life unit. With a little work you can un-crimp the bezel the holds the glass to the tach's body allowing you to remove it's innards. Then it possible to lubricate all the pivot point's inside the housing 'if' lubrication is needed.

 

[shinzon1]

I went through that several times myself. I was afraid to start working splitting the tach. I took liquid graphite like you spray in locks and kept spraying it around the drive at the back of the tach until it felt smooth when being spun by hand. I sprayed it a few more times for luck. lol. Haven't had any problems since. that was two years ago.

 

[rustybronco]

That method will only reach the lower pivot. To get at the upper you'll need to dis-assemble the tach.

 

[scca28]

Here's a little writeup I did on another forum a few years ago when I had to take my tach apart, might be something useful for you there:
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=94629

 

[Charlie G]

Here's a little writeup I did on another forum a few years ago when I had to take my tach apart, might be something useful for you there:
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=94629

You need to get that bit of information somewhere everyone can find it. Maybe Basscliff's site? Nice first post!

cg

 

[Call Me Ahab]

I actually completed this tonight - took me maybe a full hour.

First, get your gauge off the bike and remove any exterior casings.

Second, take a pair of needle nose pliers, wrap one 'arm' / 'plier' whatever in masking tape or paper towel.

Next, using the 'modified' pliers, gently pry up the lip around the diameter of the gauge, only prying a little bit at a time, save the final push for the second trip around, otherwise you risk tearing the thin metal.

After you pry off the lens, I'd recommend wiping it down with a Rain-X anti-fog wipe. Personally, I have issues with foggy gauges some morning.

Anyways, from here there are two screws at the back of the gauge, these hold the guts in place. Remove these screws and the gauge should fall right out.

Then comes the only really tricky bit of the procedure - prying the dial off the needle... I used a piece of foam to protect the gauge plate and used a paint can opener from home depot to pop it off. Mine came off fairly easily, but I have heard many complaints from others that it requires a great deal of effort sometimes.

After I got my needle off, I rinsed the guts w/ some Wax / Tar / Grease Remover followed by a bit of mineral spirits for good measure. I hit it with an air hose and played with the spring a bit to see how well ir returned to 0.

Once you're satisfied with the response, hit it with some light oil and follow the reverse of disassembly!

Pics here - http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/CallMeAhab/library/Tach Cleanup?sort=3&page=1

 

[eil]

My speedo (which is functionally identical to the tach but without the number wheels) was doing the exact same thing. Squealing quite a bit from the bearing in the rear where the cable connects. You can try to lube it, but it's also possible that the bearing may be too far gone so keep an eye out for a replacement tach.

 

[Pete's GS]

Oh, I'm inclined to repair such things given the satisfaction it can give you, but these bikes are getting so old I'm in favor now of getting an electronic gauge set from koso or danmoto and calling it good.