• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Tank Sealing?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phaseman
  • Start date Start date
P

Phaseman

Guest
I have my 78 GS1000 tank in a body shop getting it's major dent repaired. They had to drill several holes in the tank (top side) to work out the metal. The guy is gonna weld the holes back up before he is done (call me captain obvious). He suggested something that I hadn't thought about.

He's going to call me after the metal work is done so I can take it to a radiator shop before he paints it and have it boiled out. This seems like a great idea to me, and I'm wondering if you guys can think of any reason that I shouldn't? The tank didn't leak before but it looks to me like it may have had some sealant treatment at some time in the past.

Seems like afterwards I can check for leaks and if none it should be pretty darn clean from the boil out. If it does leak I'm thinking that I can do without the 3 step treatment stuff and just go with a coat of Kreme or some like product.

I would welcome any opinions or advice.
 
For extra peace of mind have it done and professionally if you can.

If you do it yourself, the best product IMHO is the Caswell epoxy. Really easy to use and it works with tanks that may not be ultra clean i.e. it likes a bit of rust to bond with.

I've used Kreme and POR-15 and both are ok but require more prep on the tank and you need to follow instructions to the letter. Too fiddly when compared with the Caswell kit. the Caswell kit is also a better deal as it is good for 2 tanks for the same price as one of the other kits.

One less thing you will then need to worry about.

cheers,
spyug.
 
I've never had a problem with Kreem (done a few tanks with it), but you do need to do the prep. work properly and throughly. It might be that what causes it to fail is ethanol in the fuel (just a rumour I heard).

I have also used an epoxy product called POR-15 with no problems.
 
Kreme didn't work for me, I can't recommend it. Once coated with the stuff removing it all to do something else is a real Hillary. I would go with Por-15 for a DIY. If the shop doesn't charge too much let them do it
 
Phaseman said:
I have my 78 GS1000 tank in a body shop getting it's major dent repaired. They had to drill several holes in the tank (top side) to work out the metal. The guy is gonna weld the holes back up before he is done (call me captain obvious). He suggested something that I hadn't thought about.

He's going to call me after the metal work is done so I can take it to a radiator shop before he paints it and have it boiled out. This seems like a great idea to me, and I'm wondering if you guys can think of any reason that I shouldn't? The tank didn't leak before but it looks to me like it may have had some sealant treatment at some time in the past.

Seems like afterwards I can check for leaks and if none it should be pretty darn clean from the boil out. If it does leak I'm thinking that I can do without the 3 step treatment stuff and just go with a coat of Kreme or some like product.

I would welcome any opinions or advice.
Click to expand...

I recommend having the rad shop do it. They should be able to find and weld up any big holes before proceeding with the coating and will often give a no-leak warranty. It's good peace of mind, and a lot less hassle.
 
I recommend having the rad shop do it. They should be able to find and weld up any big holes before proceeding with the coating and will often give a no-leak warranty. It's good peace of mind, and a lot less hassle.
Click to expand...
Mate I wish we had radiator services like that here in Oz; haven't found anyone who provides a motorcycle tank sealing service. :(
 
had the rad. shop do my tank last year, <$80, well worth coin considering the mess/grief/and hoping the chem. you may use will stand up to the mix of fuels we use. but there is a price on everything.
 
Hey Bud,

Where is that shop?

I'm in the process of doing mine or trying to anyways. Got the tank real clean with Milkstone remover then had to take off before i could allow it to dry properly and came home 3-4hrs later to find a flash rusted tank. I'll soak MSR again and seal with Caswell epoxy. I've read it's is to use and works well.
 
I cleaned two different tanks with failed sealing jobs inside and can say that it's a lot of work to get the crud out and prepare the metal for sealing a second time. It took multiple applications of the strongest paint stripper I could find, followed by shaking the crap out of the tank with pea gravel inside before all the old sealer was removed. I eventually managed to get the tank clean but very few shops could afford to take the time and effort to assure the tank is properly clean. Most shops will drop the tank into some boiling solution and pull it out after cooking for an hour or two. Not sure that's going to be good enough though. I suggest you have a good talk to the radiator shop guys and ask to see the tank after cleaning, and before sealing. You can look inside though the various openings and verify all the old coating is removed before allowing them to go to the sealing step. They won't like it but too bad, it's your tank. Make sure the job is done right.

Good luck, hope it turns out well.
 
tas850g - Hey Bud, Where is that shop?
Click to expand...

Not sure yet. The guy at the body shop said he would recommend a place to me when he gets the metal all banged out and the dent pulling holes all welded up. He's supposed to have it ready for cleaning tomorrow. I dropped in on him saturday and it looked like he was taking great care.

This is the dent he's fixing for me. Several shops wouldn't touch it.
picture.php
 
No trees...

No trees...

Naw, the guy I bought it from had it parked in a carport and a couple of winters ago his wife went to warm up her car by reaching through the window. It was in gear and lurched, barely tapping the bike but it tipped over into a 4x4 post, or so the story goes.
 
duaneage said:
Kreme didn't work for me, I can't recommend it. Once coated with the stuff removing it all to do something else is a real Hillary. I would go with Por-15 for a DIY. If the shop doesn't charge too much let them do it
Click to expand...

I just visited my local radiator shop and was quoted $125 for boiling out the tank followed by baking the tank to basically turn the previous lining into ash so it can be removed and then re-boiling the tank again before applying some sort of liner that is used in commercial aircraft application.
What is the opinion of the forum on this procedure? Of course the tqnk will then need to be painted. Thanks guys. Also, sorry for the thread hijacking.
 
alke46 said:
I just visited my local radiator shop and was quoted $125 for boiling out the tank followed by baking the tank to basically turn the previous lining into ash so it can be removed and then re-boiling the tank again before applying some sort of liner that is used in commercial aircraft application.
What is the opinion of the forum on this procedure? Of course the tqnk will then need to be painted. Thanks guys. Also, sorry for the thread hijacking.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a very fair price to me.
You could not do that yourself, and would be some mess even if you could.
 
Por-15 sealer is $11.50. Gallon of phosphoric acid is $11.29 (Milkstone remover from Tractor Supply). Bag of aquarium rocks from Walmart is $4. Gallon of paint stripper is about $20. You will have lots of left overs for future projects so these costs will be deferred to other jobs.

The question is whether or not you are a do-it-yourselfer, or prefer to let others do the work. A lot of money can be saved if one doesn't mind getting their hands dirty and I'd still be concern about how complete a job the radiator shop will do regarding removing the old coating.
 
Last edited:
Tank sealing

Tank sealing

I have had 5 tanks boiled out and resealed. These have been on restore projects that the bikes have not been road driven for has much has 15 yrs. Gas was left in them and turned the tanks into sheer rust havens. Sent them to a radiator shop had them boiled and then relined. I am not sure of the product ( by name) but was told and they are reputable, that what they use is guaranteed for life. This product is impervious to gas and condensation forming in the tank will not form rust on this product. It is a chemical agent and you have to be liscensed to use it. I was told that it far exceeds the por 15 and and any product you can use to reseal. The last tank reline was in December, picked it up in January and the price was $80. Was told that the price was increased to $125 starting Jan. 1, but I had it in before that and gave me the old price. I am very happy with the results on all the tanks, but less desireable about the care that is given.(handeling) If you are going to have it done, by all means get it done before painting!!!!! Besides, it is peace of mind that you won't have to be concerned about tank problems. Bob Mac
 
Nessism said:
Por-15 sealer is $11.50. Gallon of phosphoric acid is $11.29 (Milkstone remover from Tractor Supply). Bag of aquarium rocks from Walmart is $4. Gallon of paint stripper is about $20. You will have lots of left overs for future projects so these costs will be deferred to other jobs.

The question is whether or not you are a do-it-yourselfer, or prefer to let others do the work. A lot of money can be saved if one doesn't mind getting their hands dirty and I'd still be concern about how complete a job the radiator shop will do regarding removing the old coating.
Click to expand...

what kind of por-15 are you referring to? the por 15 that looks the most appropriate is 40ish.
 
lordcannon88 said:
what kind of por-15 are you referring to? the por 15 that looks the most appropriate is 40ish.
Click to expand...

The sealer is $11.50 for 1/2 pint. The complete kit is more money, and not appropriate in the case where a liner is already in the tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top