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Tappet clearance & compression

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigVic54
  • Start date Start date
Steve said:
No problem using Imperial feelers, I do it all the time. :-\\\

You just have to be sure which numbers you are reading. :encouragement:

.
Click to expand...

Thankfully my set has both listed on the feeler gauge. The only problem is that they only step up in imperial units at 1 thou intervals. Good enough to get you within the ranges though.
 
Too large of gaps would not show zero compression. In the worst case scenario of gaps being so large that the cam lobes don't touch the shim/bucket/valve train, the valves wouldn't open and no air would get in other than through small leaks at the valve seals or compression tester. With the little air, it already had in the cylinder prior to sealing, it'd have SOME compression.

Anyhow, the only way to get that large of a gap would be if the valve was stuck open all the way.


Question - how are you getting the bucket compressed for removing shims? the suzuki tool or zip tie method? I have a fear that maybe you opened a valve with the piston at tdc. The valve was opened on the piston top and bent....

Leakdown will tell you the reason why you have zero compression.
 
ddlaz said:
Question - how are you getting the bucket compressed for removing shims? the suzuki tool or zip tie method?
Click to expand...
We have also had NO confirmation on the method used to check clearances.
Were the cam lobes in the correct positions? :-k

.
 
Steve said:
We have also had NO confirmation on the method used to check clearances.
Were the cam lobes in the correct positions? :-k

.
Click to expand...

I believe the cams were in the incorrect positions when I checked the clearances. I have checked them again the correct way, I hope, and have ordered new shims. I'll get back to you after I install them.
 
No offense but do you mind sharing your clearance numbers and their shim sizes so we can help you better? I'd hate to have you wait just to find out that they weren't enough.
 
ddlaz said:
Question - how are you getting the bucket compressed for removing shims? the suzuki tool or zip tie method? I have a fear that maybe you opened a valve with the piston at tdc. The valve was opened on the piston top and bent....

Leakdown will tell you the reason why you have zero compression.
Click to expand...

You're thought is that depressing the tappet to remove the shim bent the valve? Wouldn't that take a significant amount of pressure? I used the Motion Pro tool to hold the tappet down and never pushed that hard.
 
Yeah that probably wouldn't have bent it then. Just stating a possibility. Have you done a leakdown test yet? Its easier than a compression test, believe it or not.
 
ddlaz said:
Yeah that probably wouldn't have bent it then. Just stating a possibility. Have you done a leakdown test yet? Its easier than a compression test, believe it or not.
Click to expand...

I'll try it today. I have the equipment. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
OK, I did a leak down test. Cylinders #2 & #4 are fine, #1 & #3 not so good. When I get the new shims I'll do another compression test. The last one was good but I'll try again.
 
Ouch, sorry to hear that. what clearances do/did you have on 1 and 3? If you have no clearance at all, then thinner shims may help, but they must be stuck open for there to be a leak.
 
ddlaz said:
Ouch, sorry to hear that. what clearances do/did you have on 1 and 3? If you have no clearance at all, then thinner shims may help, but they must be stuck open for there to be a leak.
Click to expand...

I'm fairly sure the valves were closed when I did the test. I could slide a feeler gauge between the shim and cam with the cylinder at TDC. One question, and I know I'll be getting bad news, I could hear noise coming out of cylinder #2 when I tested cylinder #1 even though #2 tested fine. Am I going to be in the market for a new head gasket?
 
Tough to say...you sure noise was coming out of cylinder 2 and not just because of their proximity to each other?

Head gasket would typically show the problem both ways.
Small possibility that the exhaust valve is bent on cylinder one, so the air went through the exhaust and down to the crossover(sorry, don't know which bike you have) where the noise resonates up back to the #2 cylinder. Just a wild guess.
 
ddlaz said:
Tough to say...you sure noise was coming out of cylinder 2 and not just because of their proximity to each other?

Head gasket would typically show the problem both ways.
Small possibility that the exhaust valve is bent on cylinder one, so the air went through the exhaust and down to the crossover(sorry, don't know which bike you have) where the noise resonates up back to the #2 cylinder. Just a wild guess.
Click to expand...

The bike is a 1982 GS1100GL. It has 4 into 1 exhaust and no crossover. When I put my finger on the #2 spark plug hole the noise decreased.
 
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