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Tappet tool source

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS750GUY
  • Start date Start date
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GS750GUY

Guest
Dear GS family,
I'm in the process of replacing the valve tappet shims on my 78 GS750EC. I pulled the covers, checked the clearance and found that virtually all of them need to be replaced. I see my manual recommends a tappet shim replacement tool Suzuki part number 09916-64510. Can anyone recommend where I can get one of these tools, or suggest inexpensive ways to make a substitute tool?
Thanks!
GS750GUY
 
I've done it both ways now. Using the tool is somewhat easier, and skips hypothetical problems due to side loads caused by the zip tie method.

PSA: You must resist the temptation to turn the engine over without the shims in it. The only viable substitute I've found for a shim is another shim. Anything else is more trouble than just getting another shim.
 
Dogma said:
I've done it both ways now. Using the tool is somewhat easier, and skips hypothetical problems due to side loads caused by the zip tie method.

PSA: You must resist the temptation to turn the engine over without the shims in it. The only viable substitute I've found for a shim is another shim. Anything else is more trouble than just getting another shim.
Click to expand...

Dear Dogma,
I'm really stupid at this as it's my first experience at adjusting valve clearance. Regarding your last comment about resisting the temptation to turn the engine without the shims in it. How can I avoid doing this? Before I can order the individual shims that I will need to do the job I must first remove all the existing shims, record their location thickness, and then order replacement shims accordingly. If I'm thinking correctly......to do this without rotating the engine I would need a complete shim kit and then remove and replace each shim one at a time. What is the reason for not turning the engine? My owners manual mentions only purchasing the shims needed vs. buying a complete kit. And the manual says nothing about not turning the engine without shims in it.

Also regarding the zip tie method: has this been proven a reliable method by many GSrs?

Thanks, I appreciate your input.

GS750GUY
 
Have many of you GS'rs out their tried and found the zip tie method to be successful? Any of you experienced any down sides to this method? Anybody out there definitely not recommend this?
GS750GUY
 
I tried to use the zip tie method when I did my shims and ended up breaking the zip tie off in the motor and had to pull the head off. I heard of another member tried doing the zip tie method and ended up breaking a valve. So I would say under no circumstance should you do the zip tie method.
 
n1elkyfan said:
I tried to use the zip tie method when I did my shims and ended up breaking the zip tie off in the motor and had to pull the head off. I heard of another member tried doing the zip tie method and ended up breaking a valve. So I would say under no circumstance should you do the zip tie method.
Click to expand...

Agree. Get the right tool for the job. Or if you are a good mechanic, pull the cams like you would have to on about 90% of all the new bikes being produced today.
 
A slappy valve is a happy valve

A slappy valve is a happy valve

Hi Mr. GS750GUY,

Don't pull all of your shims out at once. Take a clearance measurement on the first valve, pull that shim, note the size, put it back, move to the next valve. Once you know all of your clearances and all of your shim sizes you can figure out what you can move around to get most of your clearances in spec. Then you may end up having to order only two or three shims. Don't turn your motor without the shims in place.

I use Mr. Steve's handy dandy valve adjustment spreadsheet to keep track of clearances and shim sizes. Then I can order a few that I think I'll need ahead of time. Just send Mr. Steve (Steve) an email to request his spreadsheet. His email address is in his member profile.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Possible alternative to zip ties

Possible alternative to zip ties

Someone mentioned having one of the zip ties break off and fall into the cylinder thus creating the need to remove the heads.
Has anyone thought of, or tried taking say a 12" piece of heavy guaged single strand copper wire like what you would find in Romax, bend it in the middle, strip off the plastic outer plastic sheathing about two inches at the bend and then slightly flatten the bend with a hammer.
The remaining covered long ends could be twisted to form a bendable handle and you could insert the flattened bare copper bend into the spark plug hole as you would the twist ties. The copper being way softer than the steel should not harm the metal and being a lot tougher than the twist tie would not break off and fall into the cylinder.
Just a thought! Now those of you that are way wiser than me mechanically......what do you think. Would this work?
GS750GUY
 
why dont you try using a coin of similar size as a temporary shim while swapping , this way you wont ruin the cam or shim bucket, i done it with uk 2p coins and found it easier that the tie method
 
GS750GUY said:
Someone mentioned having one of the zip ties break off and fall into the cylinder thus creating the need to remove the heads.
Has anyone thought of, or tried taking say a 12" piece of heavy guaged single strand copper wire like what you would find in Romax, bend it in the middle, strip off the plastic outer plastic sheathing about two inches at the bend and then slightly flatten the bend with a hammer.
The remaining covered long ends could be twisted to form a bendable handle and you could insert the flattened bare copper bend into the spark plug hole as you would the twist ties. The copper being way softer than the steel should not harm the metal and being a lot tougher than the twist tie would not break off and fall into the cylinder.
Just a thought! Now those of you that are way wiser than me mechanically......what do you think. Would this work?
GS750GUY
Click to expand...

That should work, except the copper has to be softer than the aluminum head as well. I don't think I'd try that.
 
it doesn,t need to be softer than aluminium because the coin sits in a steel shim bucket and the cam is hardened steel, but i thought copper and aluminium where similar anyway.
 
TAFF said:
it doesn,t need to be softer than aluminium because the coin sits in a steel shim bucket and the cam is hardened steel, but i thought copper and aluminium where similar anyway.
Click to expand...

Right. I was responding to the coper wire idea for holding the valve open.

I had thought about using a coin when I did mine, but we don't really have anything of a good size for this over here.
 
i appologise for that , ,,with regards to lack of similar size coin , couldn,t you get a similar size copperor nickel washer from a local supplier and keep that for valve checking in future,
 
TAFF said:
i appologise for that , ,,with regards to lack of similar size coin , couldn,t you get a similar size copperor nickel washer from a local supplier and keep that for valve checking in future,
Click to expand...

Uh, maybe. But I have spare shims now. Paid just under $5 each. All I had to do was wait. Not fun, but I was waiting on other parts too.
 
I sucessfully used the cable tie method - however as mentioned by someone else, part of it did break off in my case also- luckily i was able to retrieve it after some fiddling by turning the motor over on the starter - it spat the piece out the exhaust port. I am going to buy one of the special tools personally. I know the plastic tie is much softer than the head, but still not 100% convinced it may not leave some small impression or debris, hence i reckon the tool.
 
GS750GUY here again. The guy that started this thread.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! After 30 minutes in the garage I'm back to tell you I'm a confirmed ZIP TIE believer. It worked slicker than a whistle. I removed & put back each shim, logged the thickness and am back here in 30 minutes to tell you about it. No problems what so ever! For the guys that experienced breakage of the tie; I can't imagine what caused it. The ties I used showed little if any wear at all.
A while back I requested the email for the the shim conversion chart but for some reason am unable to open it.
Below is the readings I got from my 8 valve 78 GS750EC. According to my manual the valve gap is to run between .03 & .08 MM. The following is my list of readings. I have numbered the valve starting with valve #1 which faces the front of the bike.
Can one of my fellow GS'rs out there with a conversion chart tell me what I need to do based on the information below?
Thanks a million for everyones help with this thread!!
GS750GUY
I can't wait to ride!!!!!

INITIAL VALVE CLEARANCE MEASUREMENTS

#1 #3 #5 #7
.08MM .08MM .08MM .08MM

#2 #4 #6 #8
.09MM .11MM .11MM .08MM

SHIM THICKNESSES

#1 #3 #5 #7
2.70 2.75 2.75 2.75

#2 #4 #6 #8
2.75 2.65 2.70 2.65
 
GS750GUY said:
GS750GUY here again. The guy that started this thread.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! After 30 minutes in the garage I'm back to tell you I'm a confirmed ZIP TIE believer. It worked slicker than a whistle. I removed & put back each shim, logged the thickness and am back here in 30 minutes to tell you about it. No problems what so ever! For the guys that experienced breakage of the tie; I can't imagine what caused it. The ties I used showed little if any wear at all.
A while back I requested the email for the the shim conversion chart but for some reason am unable to open it.
Below is the readings I got from my 8 valve 78 GS750EC. According to my manual the valve gap is to run between .03 & .08 MM. The following is my list of readings. I have numbered the valve starting with valve #1 which faces the front of the bike.
Can one of my fellow GS'rs out there with a conversion chart tell me what I need to do based on the information below?
Thanks a million for everyones help with this thread!!
GS750GUY
I can't wait to ride!!!!!

INITIAL VALVE CLEARANCE MEASUREMENTS

#1 #3 #5 #7
.08MM .08MM .08MM .08MM

#2 #4 #6 #8
.09MM .11MM .11MM .08MM

SHIM THICKNESSES

#1 #3 #5 #7
2.70 2.75 2.75 2.75

#2 #4 #6 #8
2.75 2.65 2.70 2.65
Click to expand...

I agree that the zip tie works great and I had no problem. I would not use thin little cheap ones if you're worried about breakage.

As far as your measurements I wouldn't bother changing any but #4 and #6 may be slightly over spec. A 2.70 in #4 would bring you down to .06mm and a 2.75 in #6 would bring you down to .06mm if they are correctly marked. A 2.65X and 2.70X may dial you in to around .08mm. If you haven't done so I would check your measurements a second time just to verify.
 
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