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Tensioner

jsandidge

jsandidge

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I saw another thread on this subject, but it seemed to go unresolved. The knurled knob on my tensioner appears to be bottomed out. There is some spring tension left, but there's no travel left to apply any pressure to the plunger. I did have to file a little off of the angled end when I rebuilt the tensioner due to a groove. I do have a slight rattle in the top end that I believe could be the cam chain. It's not loud, but I believe I have ruled everything else out. Does anyone have a fix for this?
 
Youi may want to remove the tensioner. Then push the plunger that contact the cam chain bumper to the rear or the tensinoer while turning the spring loaded affair (on the side) out so that it is all the way out when the tensioner plunger is to the rear. When you release the tensioner plunger after you reinstall the thing, the knurled arm on the side wiill apply some pressure to the ramp part to keep it adjusted properly. I hope I said this in an understandable manner. bikercliff's website has illustration. Make sure you loosen the lock screw and snug down the lock nut when you are done so the plunger is free to float tensioned by the spring and the knurled thing on the side.
 
Tensioner is functioning properly. Just my imagination I guess, I pulled it and it's not bottoming out. Still hear the tapping noise though. Guess it will stay that way until I rebuild the top end, but that won't be for at least a year. For now, I'm just going to ride it and ignore the tapping.
 
Take the nut off the knob and twist the knob counter clockwise to add tension to it by winding the spring a little tighter.
 
I had a gs550 a long time ago, I've now got a gs1100g of similar vintage... The 1100 now has fewer miles on it than my 550 had when I traded it in for a z1000r all those years ago. The 550 cam chain got a little noisy I remember before it wore to the slapping point when I put a new one in it. If your cam chain is rattling a little but not slapping, leave it alone and don't fiddle with the tensioner. When it starts slapping, fit a new one by splitting both chains, joining the new to the old and pulling the new chain around and rejoining with a bicycle chain riveting tool. Don't fiddle with the tensioner...
 
I may add some tension to the spring later this week. Might not be the source of the tapping, but it can't hurt.
 
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The knob recoils the tensioners piston arm. If its too loose the teeth that grab the rod rattle around. Its doesnt take much for it to tick rather loudly.
 
Start the bike and gently lay a finger on the knob to see if its jerking back and forth. If it is the spring for sure too loose.
 
There is no movement on the knob while it's running. I'm gonna listen around with a wooden dowel or something up to my ear to see if I can isolate the noise. Seems to be on the left side in the cam area.
 
Is it properly set up?? You loosen the jam nut and turn the center bolt in till it touches the rod. Then you back it out 1/4 turn and reset the jam nut.
 
If it is in the left side of the cam area, the only thing in there besides the chain that turns the cams are the cams themselves and the shims they push down on. When was the last valve clearance check? Usually a bit noisier if clearances are too wide.
 
chuck hahn said:
Is it properly set up?? You loosen the jam nut and turn the center bolt in till it touches the rod. Then you back it out 1/4 turn and reset the jam nut.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did that. The plunger popped out and the tensioner is functioning properly.
 
geol said:
If it is in the left side of the cam area, the only thing in there besides the chain that turns the cams are the cams themselves and the shims they push down on. When was the last valve clearance check? Usually a bit noisier if clearances are too wide.
Click to expand...

Checked all the clearances again yesterday. Tightest one is .04 mm and the loosest ones are .07 mm. All within spec.
 
Maybe you could be hearing a bolt from the starter clutch ticking against the cases??? Just a thought.
 
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