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The rusty old scooter.

dorkburger said:
Not sure about the black box, but in vintage pictures of euro models, there are numbers stuck there.
License plate of sorts, I guess.
Click to expand...
And it just popped into my head...the old video of fine young canibals "good thing"...as I remember there were quite a few hopped up scoots in it...just say'in...
 
Im a complete hack or mad genius.... I took apart the front shocks. I looked in the bucket O random hardware and found some springs, cut them in half, and replaced some of the rubber slugs.... movable shocks.... with no damping..... with no worries. In my first foray into shock construction, I failed to realize that the wierdo trailing linkage front added leverage to the shock, and the first springs could be bottomed out easily..... these are.... less easy with the storm door limiter spring. Also that aluminum bushing was frozen to the shaft preventing any movement. Heat and Aerokroil used to free them.

Version 2.
http://20170901_200310 by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

Started bolting on the ugly parts:D The handlebars are just resting in place. They have to come off, the front body piece goes on, then I have to snake all of the wiring and cables thru.
http://20170901_210941 by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
 
Two questions;
1} what's the purpose of the rectangle box over the front forks?...just a fancy fork top cover?
2} When are you going to polish up the whole motor assembly?...cause you can't have a grungy looking motor after what ya did to the levers! :rolleyes:
 
I thought of another question...not to be annoying...
What is the construction of the lower shock body?.....just a closed off tube or is it open {for a longer spring that won't bottom}
glens shocks.jpg
 
The box on the fender is claimed to be an air scoop to cool the engine. The bottom shock tube is hollow. The spring stops at the aluminum collar and the shaft passes thru when the shock compresses.
There's also a top out bushing inside of the lower tube and attached to the shaft for when lofting monster wheelies.
 
dorkburger said:
Im a complete hack or mad genius.... I took apart the front shocks. I looked in the bucket O random hardware and found some springs, cut them in half, and replaced some of the rubber slugs.... movable shocks.... with no damping..... with no worries. In my first foray into shock construction, I failed to realize that the wierdo trailing linkage front added leverage to the shock, and the first springs could be bottomed out easily..... these are.... less easy with the storm door limiter spring. Also that aluminum bushing was frozen to the shaft preventing any movement. Heat and Aerokroil used to free them.

Version 2.
http://20170901_200310 by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

Started bolting on the ugly parts:D The handlebars are just resting in place. They have to come off, the front body piece goes on, then I have to snake all of the wiring and cables thru.
http://20170901_210941 by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Looks like the internals of an original Manitou MTB fork now, LOL.
 
dorkburger said:
The box on the fender is claimed to be an air scoop to cool the engine. The bottom shock tube is hollow. The spring stops at the aluminum collar and the shaft passes thru when the shock compresses.
There's also a top out bushing inside of the lower tube and attached to the shaft for when lofting monster wheelies.
Click to expand...

Not sure how much air would be directed to the motor since the fork top looks like it would heavily limit that flow...but it's got character.
That aluminum looking tube top looks like it would unscrew...could yield a lot more spring and travel.
"Massive wheelies"...lol...dang near spit out my coffee on that one...

Hmmm....Mountain bike springs might just work in there as well as in back....
 
Look what I saved..... .846 diameter and in assorted lengths. If you want them to play with they're yours....these are the original front fork springs on my mtb before I rebuilt it for longer travel.
mtb springs 002.jpg
 
I'll be darned. Thanks. I'm going to wait until I have a look at the rear shocks.

Goofed off with the polishing wheel tonight. Im certainly no expert, but casting on the cover seems to be of low quality. Lots of imperfections, and it didn't take a shine, just turned gray. Then I goofed off with the Dremel tool.

This is cool. Would be even cooler if I get the right cupped type wheel.
http://20170902_230842 by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
 
Look up engine turning on YouTube I think it's what you are trying to do.
 
That was the general idea. In my mind engine turning evokes images of 50s & 60 hot rods / customs. Just goofing around mainly. The engine is completely covered unkess I leave the top cover off.
 
Last edited:
Now this is what you call classic. Although we really wanted to retain its original paint, rust won't let us do so; better stop it from ruining your scooter's legacy. Great job on this one!
 
I've been a bit lazy posting progress, but work is progressing. Wheels have been wire wheeled to bare metal then painted, some body parts reinstalled, along with the handlebar / levers assembly.

I keep getting sidetracked by the engine sitting on the bench. It started with a little cleanup and smoothing of casting flash..... I now have visions of it sitting down there like a little jewel... it has yet to be seen if I have the patience to make it happen, especially since disassebling it is not an option. Im not dealing with the need to locate gaskets for a 50 year old low production item if I dont have to.
 
Glen, you can always cut new gaskets your self. That head light looks awesome.
 
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