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Thoughts for a half decent multimeter??

  • Thread starter Thread starter barnbiketom
  • Start date Start date
B

barnbiketom

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For years at work I used a fluke 87 but don't really want to spend several hundred bucks for one now.
The HF ones do the job but I have had 20 or so lol..the ohms won't auto zero... then they only last 3 months any ways.
I see sears has some but the reviews are mixed. I know you get what you pay for BUT TODAY YOU NEVER KNOW.. The high priced ones might just be a come on. I'd spend 50-75 if I had to.
I'd just like it to last.
 
Why not get an 87 of your own? :-k

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREAT-Fluke...-Case-Leads-/151843842804?hash=item235a992af4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87-Tr...hash=item1a076381eb&item=111793111531&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87-II...EE-SHIPPING-/252112295320?hash=item3ab3105598

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87-V-...Leads-N3071-/161852512318?hash=item25af29583e

etc., etc., etc.

I am still using a 77 that was retired from our test equipment inventory back about 20 years ago.
It gets calibrated every year along with our current test equipment, but it's MINE. :encouragement:

.
 
Hmmmm. I actually never searched for a used one...now I might take a look.
They are built for a beating...
 
Still can't beat a properly calibrated Simpson 260 analogue meter for use around the house. It may not be as accurate as today's digital models but still extremely useful. Great for a visual capacitance check if you ever need it. You can pick up a good used one for $25 and get a fairly decent calibration on it using some 1% resistors.

Yes I have a digital, I just find myself using it more often than than the DVOM.
 
Why not get an 87 of your own? :-k


etc., etc., etc.

I am still using a 77 that was retired from our test equipment inventory back about 20 years ago.
It gets calibrated every year along with our current test equipment, but it's MINE. :encouragement:

.

That's the way I decided to go. If you're going to shell out for an 87, I think it's worth a little extra to hold out for an 87v. Since these are flash-memory calibrated, and have no internal calibration pots, there should be no need for routine calibration -- ever -- except for commercial users whose employers need certification for one reason or another.

I got an 87V indistinguishable from brand new for something like $165. You have to keep an eye out, but patience pays off.

On a budget? You'll find nice 'retired' military 27/FM's in the $65 vicinity. They have a rabid fan base (for a meter!) and can double as an anvil when needed.
 
Still can't beat a properly calibrated Simpson 260 analogue meter for use around the house.

Does it make you feel 15 again?

I mean, I get nostalgic just looking at a 260, but a mirrored analog scale for a guy who's post-cataract & needs multiple readers just to see my own wristwatch, well, nice clean DIGITS became affordable just in time! Next stop: talking meters that understand English.
 
I?m on my second Sears Craftsman multimeter.
The first was analog & purchased presumably before quite a few forum members were born.
The second is digital auto-ranging.


If your intended purpose is stuff around the house & work on your bikes, then I would expect an auto-ranging Sears Craftsman in your $50-75 range to be just fine.


I would stay away from the cheapie <$30 units for the same reasons as those from HF.


Post a link if you have questions about specific multimeter.
 
For general automotive workshop use, I find the 30quid Lidl DVM perfectly adequate, and a step up from the chuckaway 7quid cheapies. If I want some connections ancient, I can always pull one of the mirrored analogue meters out of the drawer, but they don't get used in the workshop - they're not exactly delicate, but too much chance of them getting dropped or dropped on.
I might pick up an AVO for old times sake - like an old pal I haven't seen for years, kind of thing.
 
The $30 wal-mart ones work fine. I've had mine for over 5 years, I've thrown it, stepped on it, left it out in the snow, And it still works fine.
Unless you're an electrician or absolutely "obsessed" with having a good brand, you don't need to drop mega bucks.
Me personally, I usually don't bring expensive tools to a job unless absolutely necessary, things get broken, ruined or always end up walking.
 
a mirrored analog scale for a guy who's post-cataract & needs multiple readers just to see my own wristwatch, well, nice clean DIGITS became affordable just in time! Next stop: talking meters that understand English.

I am in the same boat!!
 
I have a craftsman multimeter my dad gave me for Christmas 10 years ago and it's on it's second battery and has never let me down
 
I am seeing around the forums that UNI-T seem to be decent ones. more robust than most EXTECH makes sears and they are all over.. unless I get a used fluke...I'm watching a few on fleebay
UT106_L.jpghttp://uni-trend.com/UT106.html#
 
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s-l300.jpgThe Snap on guy found me a decently priced DVM It Is An INNOVA 3320.Small ,light ,and compact, It has a battery load tester 1.5v,6v,9v,and 12v, DC mA,DC10A,Condinuity beeper, Diode tester, AC mA, Ohms, AC V, 10 meg ohm, input DCV, Auto power off, A stand Or elastic band to hold in place while working with it. It rated highly with some independent testing as far as accuracy against several other brand names. The test leads that were plenty long enough and came with protective caps for the leads. web site www.iEquus.com I also have a Fluke for more sensitive readings and a SUNPRO automotive tester witch does not have AC v input so that is a draw back . But real sensitive when testing fuel injectors etc. I also own a Matco amp clamp when looking for parasitic draws or amperage out put with charging systems.. On the Ebay auction site The INNOVA 3320 sells for 26.99 with free shipping. Do some research and see how it compares to much higher priced DVM's
 
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View attachment 42413The Snap on guy found me a decently priced DVM It Is An INNOVA 3320.Small ,light ,and compact, It has a battery load tester 1.5v,6v,9v,and 12v, DC mA,DC10A,Condinuity beeper, Diode tester, AC mA, Ohms, AC V, 10 meg ohm, input DCV, Auto power off, A stand Or elastic band to hold in place while working with it. It rated highly with some independent testing as far as accuracy against several other brand names. The test leads that were plenty long enough and came with protective caps for the leads. web site www.iEquus.com I also have a Fluke for more sensitive readings and a SUNPRO automotive tester witch does not have AC v input so that is a draw back . But real sensitive when testing fuel injectors etc. I also own a Matco amp clamp when looking for parasitic draws or amperage out put with charging systems.. On the Ebay auction site The INNOVA 3320 sells for 26.99 with free shipping. Do some research and see how it compares to much higher priced DVM's
Thts good to know. do you think the autoranging is a problem? can you defeat it? I like the wriststrap!!! and auto off !!hahhaha most of my elcheapo HF are probably still on as we speak
 
The Innova 3320 looks like a bit nicer my Craftsman & the price is a bit better too.


I like the wristwrap.
I would rate reverse polarity protection a must & autoranging a want.


I probably would go for the Innova if my Craftsman need replacing, especially since Sears closed so many of their stores.
 
I've used a fluke 77 for years with no issues. Built like proverbial brick... Well you know. You can find the used all over the place on ebay for a decent price.
 
I just got a ChineseDVM for $13. Checked a 110vac outlet in the house, a 12vdc issue on my tractor starter solenoid, and the grandsons BMW alternator output voltage. Now Im gonna check a couple things on the ol EZ. Dont see any reason to spend any more than 20 bucks.
 
There's a saying in I.T., "nobody ever got fired for buying IBM." It's not literally true these days but there was a point in time that IBM was the undisputed leader of big-iron mainframes, servers, and storage systems. When you bought something, it was simply guaranteed to work. And that "something" was always about 5x the price of the runner-up.

So Fluke is the IBM of multimeters.

I used the Fluke 27/FM in the Air Force and it's a damned fine meter. I kind of want to pick up one before they become collector's items. (It would go good with my Tektronix 2246A, which I also used extensively in the Air Force.)

I myself can't justify spending $150+ on something I only use occasionally. But el-cheapo Harbor Freight meters are dangerous crap. A cheap meter is worse than a broken one. When they fail, they typically read zero volts or current, leading you to believe a circuit or wired is powered off. They don't handle high voltage well, most can cope with 120v fine but 220 is pushing it and anything over that can literally blow the thing up right in your hand.

I don't know what a good middle-of-the-road meter is these days, but I would aim for something closer to $40-$60 and definitely UL listed.
 
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