• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Thread repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ranger
  • Start date Start date
Am I better off using a helicoil.

If you have sufficient room to work and enough aluminum "meat" around the stripped threads to accommodate the Helicoil, that's what I'd prefer. Some of the valve cover bolt holes in the head don't have a lot of extra material to work with.

If you want to get picky, there are solid thread inserts that are much better, but they get rather expensive. A Helicoil should work fine in this application.

If you can get the hole clean enough, there's a good chance that the epoxy repair goop will do the trick -- there's not a whole lot of stress on a 6mm bolt, after all.


You could also re-tap the hole to 7mm and hog out the valve cover hole a bit, but that's more than a little bit ghetto. The next owner will probably swear a bloody oath of vengeance against you unless you warn him about the one oddball bolt... :p
 
I think I'll give that stuff a shot. I just can't stand the price of a new valve cover gasket since I can't make my own. Damn half moons.
 
I think I'll give that stuff a shot. I just can't stand the price of a new valve cover gasket since I can't make my own. Damn half moons.
the stuff is worth a shot
it closed up a valve train leak for me long enough for the internet and eaby to be born
im not kidding
89 to 2005 or so
 
I was reading about it, you put the release agent on the bolt and the other stuff in the female threads and screw it in for about 2 hours?
 
I was reading about it, you put the release agent on the bolt and the other stuff in the female threads and screw it in for about 2 hours?


it a chemical thing but it does work for low torque situations
I find it odd the would have not reduced the time by now

regardless you are basically creating your won threads in teh goo by threading in the bolt

worht the ten buck more than worht it
 
Hell yeah, helicoil kit $40+ Timesert's $150+

Permatex $10. I in no way can bring myself to spend that much money to bolt a cover on. Everything adds up too quick.
 
Ranger, pull the cap in question & bring to my house. I will Helicoil it for a 6 pack of Newcastles & drink them with you afterwards. I have the Helicoil kit & drill presses to do them CORRECTLY & do them all the time. The 1150s have the same cam caps. I am 3 blocks from Disneyland. Ray.
 
Last edited:
it a chemical thing but it does work for low torque situations
I find it odd the would have not reduced the time by now

regardless you are basically creating your won threads in teh goo by threading in the bolt

worht the ten buck more than worht it



I'd use a new bolt to ensure that the threads are as clean and sharp as possible, but yep, that's the idea.
 
Ranger, pull the cap in question & bring to my house. I will Helicoil it for a 6 pack of Newcastles & drink them with you afterwards. I have the Helicoil kit & drill presses to do them CORRECTLY on & do them all the time. The 1150s have the same cam caps. I am 3 blocks from Disneyland. Ray.


The OP was only talking about a valve cover bolt, not a cam cap. But you are one awesome dude for making that offer. :D

Say "hey" to Mickey for us!
 
Ranger, pull the cap in question & bring to my house. I will Helicoil it for a 6 pack of Newcastles & drink them with you afterwards. I have the Helicoil kit & drill presses to do them CORRECTLY on & do them all the time. The 1150s have the same cam caps. I am 3 blocks from Disneyland. Ray.

Helicoil is what I'd do too. Fix the problem the right way, no disco repairs.:D
 
Just so you know, on the 83-85 750s, 700s, & 1150s the cam caps are what the valve cover bolts go into! Ray.

Oooooooh, I see!

I was picturing the valve cover arrangement found on the older bikes.

Ya learn something every day around here! :D
 
Back
Top