• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Time for some work

  • Thread starter Thread starter condensr
  • Start date Start date
C

condensr

Guest
In case its not in my sig, I ride an 81 GS1000GL with 28000 miles. Stock airbox/filter, slightly modded exhaust (stock Sportster muffs. Cheap!! (Free, actually)). 2 sizes up main jets, shimmed needles. Intake O-rings replaced, carbs thoroughly rebuilt.

So, this season, I noticed my base gasket is starting to weep/leak. So, I intend to change it out this winter.

Bike runs fair, not great though. Idle isn't smooth/consistent, and plug reads have always shown a bit lean. It seems to have decent power, but not at all what I would expect for a litre bike. It doesn't sound as, err, 'refined' as other GS bikes I have heard. I experience a little oil loss, but I dont know where it is going. I've never seen smoke out the exhaust, and it doesn't leave any drips on the garage floor.

So, onward. Since I have to disassemble the top end to do the base gasket, I figured it would be a good time to maybe re-ring the engine as well. Decarbon everything, etc.

Did a compression test last night, and it came out:
Dry: 115 105 105 110
Wet: 145 150 150 155

So, I definitely am going to want to re-ring it. Whether I'll need new oversized pistons/rings I won't be able to tell until I disassemble the engine.

I'm also thinking:
-Check cam chain stretch
-Check valve guides (should be OK considering leakdown values)
-Replace cam chain guides
-New intake pipes
-Lap valves/seats
-New ignition (Dyna S?)
-Of course adjust valve clearances

I'll stick with the stock airbox setup, as I prefer the torquiness over top end HP..

What I should need:
Gasket kit
Cam chain guides
Cam chain (hopefully not!!)
Valve spring compressor (can I make one?)
Rings
Possibly pistons
Intake boots
Anti-seize for exhaust re-assembly
Oil
2 Oil Filters
Beer

Is there anything I'm missing for this project? Should be a fun winter's project. What's the best source for the parts right now? I usually like Bike Bandit, as their service is good, despite often higher prices. Ron Ayers was slow, but had good prices.


Thanks all! :)
 
You have a service manual / Other Reading material to help you out? Figure you should be able to make up an initial list of what you might need from that guy

I'll be doing an overhaul on my GS750 this winter too so I am in the search for a shopping list as well.

Aurora Suzuki might be a good local place to snag parts too. Give you a local shop to pickup from too, they had oversized pistons and rings....ofcourse liek you said you won't know if you need oversize until you take it apart this winter. Good luck with your rebuild.... I'm sure we will both need it...I'm in the Seattle area too =)
 
Last edited:
Well, an update..

Have the engine disassembled.

Took the jugs in to a local machine shop, and had them measure the bore size and taper, as well as clean and remove the old gaskets. It measured out beautiful, with no measurable taper or out of round, with the size well within std (not limit) measurements on all 4. He lightly honed the bores, and its ready for reinstall! Heh, well, the jugs are ready..

I'm just starting on the head. I need to decarbon the ex ports as well as the head itself. I do have the valves out.

Any suggestions for gentle methods to decarbon/degunk the head and valves? I of course want to be particularly careful with the valve seats and seating faces. I'm thinking for those areas, only plastic tools..? Once I'm done with my cleaning, I'll take it to the shop and have him clean it and remove the gasket residue with whatever magic he used on the cylinders.

Oh, and any tips on where to get the molybdenum disulfide lube that is needed for the valve stem ends/cam lobes/cam bearings/etc during reassembly?
 
jgordon and I are doing a 1166 kit on my 1100. Here is the list of things that I bought.
Valve cover gasket
Head gasket
Base gasket
Cam chain tensioner gasket
Breather gasket
Pistons
Rings
Wrist pins
Piston C-clips
Ring compressors(lg hose clamps)
Clutch cover gasket
Stator cover gasket
Cylinder o-rings
Blue loctite
Rubber mallet
Magnet bolt retriever
Exhaust gaskets
Assembly oil
If you are putting the cylinder on yourself remember to set the ring end gap.
 
Take the head to someone with a steam cleaner/ typhoon, It works great and will not harm the aluminium
 
You should be in good shape installing new valve stem seals and very lightly lapping the valves - mainly to check the contact area. Vesrah makes a nice gasket that's quite a bit less expensive than the stock Suzuki parts and includes everything you will need to put the engine back together - including new intake O-rings.

Good luck.
 
I agree if you have a local auto machine shop have them clean it SHouldn't cost but a few dollars IT IS WELL WORTH THE MONEY
 
You guys are forgetting the most important tool of all.....Beer!:-D
 
You guys are forgetting the most important tool of all.....Beer!:-D

Well, it was in my list in the first post.. \\:D/

Anyhow, back to the topic at hand, any miracle ways to remove carbon deposits from aluminum heads?
 
Well, it was in my list in the first post.. \\:D/

Anyhow, back to the topic at hand, any miracle ways to remove carbon deposits from aluminum heads?
Have the engine shop do it!! it is worth the little extra.
Other options, brass wire brushes, drill mounted and hand and a lil elbow grease.

Dink
 
Berrymans Carb Cleaner. I use it to dip volkswagen cases and heads.I had to get 4 five gallon cans to totally emerse a vw case.Its expensive but if you take care of it you will have cleaner for 2 or 3 yrs. Store it in a polyethelene barrel. It might not get every bit of carbon but it will soften whats left and a hard plastic scraper will normally do it. DO NOT PUT RUBBER OR PAINTED PARTS IN IT.
 
Well, my 'winter' project has gone a little late.

Got the head back from the machine shop, clean as can be. A valve guide broke while he was removing the valve seals, so I had to order a new one. That's all done, valves are de-carboned, so now all I have to do is decarbon 3 more pistons, drop the oil pan, flush the engine of any junk that fell in during disassembly, lube and reassemble.

I'm going to need to source some valve shims for at least the #1 cylinder where the guide was replaced, as he re-cut the seat on that hole as well. Kind of annoying, but oh well.

What do you all use for assembly lube? My local supplier did not have molybdenum disulfide assembly lube, but they did have a different moly lube by Sta-Lube. Will that work?

Paint work will have to wait for next winter, as I want to ride!
 
Last edited:
I don't think it matters what kind of assembly lube you use so long as its specific to the job of lubing parts during rebuilds. I don't recommend it per say but I typically just use regular engine oil unless there is a new cam involved.
 
Any suggestions for gentle methods to decarbon/degunk the head and valves? I of course want to be particularly careful with the valve seats and seating faces. I'm thinking for those areas, only plastic tools..? Once I'm done with my cleaning, I'll take it to the shop and have him clean it and remove the gasket residue with whatever magic he used on the cylinders.
wire wheel lightly applied to the valves, oak stick and carb cleaner and rags for the combustion chambers and ports (it takes off clear so becareful)
Oh, and any tips on where to get the molybdenum disulfide lube that is needed for the valve stem ends/cam lobes/cam bearings/etc during reassembly?
suzuki/honda dealer
beer store.
EDIT*** molybendium chassis grease also applied to the cam lobes works. (if you can find it)
 
Last edited:
What do you all use for assembly lube? My local supplier did not have molybdenum disulfide assembly lube, but they did have a different moly lube by Sta-Lube. Will that work?
should work on the cam lobes and valve stem and tips just fine, don't go "hog" wild.
oil the cam journals, crank it (w/o spark) till oil gets to the top end, then fire it up.
 
Last edited:
Well, making a little progress.. Pistons cleaned, clutch cover off (gasket replacement)..

Tomorrow I hope to get the oil pan off (cleaning of pan/screen) and flush the open bottom end (from the top - jugs are still off) with some kero then some oil. Try as I might, I couldn't keep 100% of the debris collected around things like the head studs from dropping down in to the engine during disassembly.

Then the re-assembly starts! Hopefully I get time to work on it so it doesn't drag out too long.
 
Back
Top