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Anonymous
Guest
Well, I've finally switched my GS550L from CDI ignition to Points and Condensers. Now I have lots of fire but I need to know how to set the timing. I do not have a timing tester - does anyone have any ideas??
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Anonymous
Guest
You could use a continuity tester to check when the points actually close. Of course this assume that you know a crankshaft position for when this is supposed to occur.
I never seen a bike timed with a timing light but I'd have to assume it can be done. Again you would have to know some position of the crankshaft that is supposed to "trapped" by the strobe.
I'm a bit surpised that the kit (if this was an aftermarket kit) you used for the conversion didn't have some inforamtion on this. Can you contact the manufacturer and see if they have a method to use.
I never seen a bike timed with a timing light but I'd have to assume it can be done. Again you would have to know some position of the crankshaft that is supposed to "trapped" by the strobe.
I'm a bit surpised that the kit (if this was an aftermarket kit) you used for the conversion didn't have some inforamtion on this. Can you contact the manufacturer and see if they have a method to use.
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks pjackson. The points and condensers actually come from another GS that someone parted out. The timing marks are all there so I'll follow your advice and check the points for continuity. Thanks Again.
Craig
Craig
Re: Timing Question
heh heh err ahhhh yeah.
Take the spark plugs out, remove the round ignition cover on the right crankshaft end (three screws) You will see that the crankshaft end had a big nut and a small hex bolt head. Do NOT NOT!!! turn the crankshaft with the small centered bolt head. Use a wrench on the big nut only. When sitting on the ground on the right side of the bike looking at the crankshaft, rotation will be clockwise. The base plate you installed (thats the one that holds both consensers and point sets) has three screws (located at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock) On the top screw (12 oclock) you will see that it goes through a slot in the base plate. Loosen the screws at the 4 and 8 oclock positions. Loosen the screw at the 12 o'clock position and rotate the base plate until the screw in centered in the slot.
Tighten all three screws. In your timing window (thats the 3/4" hole in the base plate directly underneath the 12 o'clock screw you just tightened.) you will see one set of markings that look like (F/1....F/4) and 180 degrees from that position you will see another set of markings that look like
(F/2....F/3) Above these markings and stationary on the engine will be another mark. That is the engine timing mark. In the window, the first mark on F1 is the static timing mark for cylinders1 or 4. The first mark on F3 is the static timing mark for cylinders 2 or 3. You static time using the F1 and F2 marks only.
Normally, the right side point set is for cylinders number 1 and 4 and the left side point set is for cylinders 2 and 3. Both leads from your wiring harness to the points (usually a black and a white wire) are positive, so it doesnt matter which lead goes to which set of points, but reversing the leads will change the "active" set of points. Take a wrench and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the F1 mark is aligned with the stationary timing mark on the case above it. This is the point at wh
ich you want the points to open.
Take a feeler guage and set the point gap to .001 (thats thousandths not metric ) There should be no continuity across the points. Check to be sure there is no continuity with a tester.
Now, by pressing with the slightest feather of a touch on the points, there should be continuity when they close. Keep adjusting the points until they are open only a very very tight thousandth of an inch and any touch at all is enough pressure to close them. Again....with them open, there should be NO continuity. (the gap you set must be as small as possible)
Take a wrench and rotate the crank again until you see the F2 mark. Repeat the process with the other set of points.
The engine is now static timed. Put spark plugs back in.
Connect timing light (you can hook up timing light directly to battery+ and -.) You will note on your points sets that once point set is stationary on the base plate. (I.E. to adjust it you must rotate the breaker plate) The other set of points is adjustable by itself. You want to hook the spark plug sensor to the spark plug that corresponds to the point set that is adjustable only by rotating the breaker plate. That normally will be cylinder #1.
Start engine. Let engine warm up. At idle of about 800 to 1000 rpm there should be no advance and shining the timing light into the timing window will show the marks in the same alignment as they were when you static timed. If the marks are off a little bit one way or the other, loosen the breaker plate screws and very slightly rotate the breaker plate until the static marks are correct.
Shut down engine, change spark plug sensor ro cylinder#2.
Start engine and check that the 2nd set of points is on the static mark. If not, you will have to adjust the points. (this is the set that is moveablel on the base plate ...remember )
NOw...youre running 1000 rpm and both points sets are on their marks. Put timing light back on cylinder number 1. Increase rpm to 350
0 (full mechanical advance will be in now) and shine timing light into window to see that you are now advanced and in alignment with the advance mark. If not in alignment, loosen the three screws on the breaker plate and rotate it slightly until the advance is correct. Lock plate back down.
The above is not exactly how they say to time in most books, but
trust me....
Earl
heh heh err ahhhh yeah.
Take the spark plugs out, remove the round ignition cover on the right crankshaft end (three screws) You will see that the crankshaft end had a big nut and a small hex bolt head. Do NOT NOT!!! turn the crankshaft with the small centered bolt head. Use a wrench on the big nut only. When sitting on the ground on the right side of the bike looking at the crankshaft, rotation will be clockwise. The base plate you installed (thats the one that holds both consensers and point sets) has three screws (located at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock) On the top screw (12 oclock) you will see that it goes through a slot in the base plate. Loosen the screws at the 4 and 8 oclock positions. Loosen the screw at the 12 o'clock position and rotate the base plate until the screw in centered in the slot.
Tighten all three screws. In your timing window (thats the 3/4" hole in the base plate directly underneath the 12 o'clock screw you just tightened.) you will see one set of markings that look like (F/1....F/4) and 180 degrees from that position you will see another set of markings that look like
(F/2....F/3) Above these markings and stationary on the engine will be another mark. That is the engine timing mark. In the window, the first mark on F1 is the static timing mark for cylinders1 or 4. The first mark on F3 is the static timing mark for cylinders 2 or 3. You static time using the F1 and F2 marks only.
Normally, the right side point set is for cylinders number 1 and 4 and the left side point set is for cylinders 2 and 3. Both leads from your wiring harness to the points (usually a black and a white wire) are positive, so it doesnt matter which lead goes to which set of points, but reversing the leads will change the "active" set of points. Take a wrench and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the F1 mark is aligned with the stationary timing mark on the case above it. This is the point at wh
ich you want the points to open.
Take a feeler guage and set the point gap to .001 (thats thousandths not metric
) There should be no continuity across the points. Check to be sure there is no continuity with a tester.Now, by pressing with the slightest feather of a touch on the points, there should be continuity when they close. Keep adjusting the points until they are open only a very very tight thousandth of an inch and any touch at all is enough pressure to close them. Again....with them open, there should be NO continuity. (the gap you set must be as small as possible)
Take a wrench and rotate the crank again until you see the F2 mark. Repeat the process with the other set of points.
The engine is now static timed. Put spark plugs back in.
Connect timing light (you can hook up timing light directly to battery+ and -.) You will note on your points sets that once point set is stationary on the base plate. (I.E. to adjust it you must rotate the breaker plate) The other set of points is adjustable by itself. You want to hook the spark plug sensor to the spark plug that corresponds to the point set that is adjustable only by rotating the breaker plate. That normally will be cylinder #1.
Start engine. Let engine warm up. At idle of about 800 to 1000 rpm there should be no advance and shining the timing light into the timing window will show the marks in the same alignment as they were when you static timed. If the marks are off a little bit one way or the other, loosen the breaker plate screws and very slightly rotate the breaker plate until the static marks are correct.
Shut down engine, change spark plug sensor ro cylinder#2.
Start engine and check that the 2nd set of points is on the static mark. If not, you will have to adjust the points. (this is the set that is moveablel on the base plate ...remember
) NOw...youre running 1000 rpm and both points sets are on their marks. Put timing light back on cylinder number 1. Increase rpm to 350
0 (full mechanical advance will be in now) and shine timing light into window to see that you are now advanced and in alignment with the advance mark. If not in alignment, loosen the three screws on the breaker plate and rotate it slightly until the advance is correct. Lock plate back down.
The above is not exactly how they say to time in most books, but
trust me....
Earl
CraigPardy said:
JUst and add on:
If you gap the points accurately, static timing is usually all you Must do. If you dont have a timing light, dont worry about it.
If you dont have a continuity tester, any old 12 volt bulb and socket with two wires (leads) can be used as a continuity tester
And if you dont have a socket and bulb, a spare turn signal will also work.
Earl
If you gap the points accurately, static timing is usually all you Must do. If you dont have a timing light, dont worry about it.
If you dont have a continuity tester, any old 12 volt bulb and socket with two wires (leads) can be used as a continuity tester
And if you dont have a socket and bulb, a spare turn signal will also work.
Earl
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks Earl. That was totally different than the book explains. The book was actually pretty stingy on details. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Craig
Craig
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Bill + Karen
Guest
"Take a feeler guage and set the point gap to .001 (thats thousandths" Earl I'm wondering why so small on the point gap? I am running Karen's bike at .012 to .014 as per the Clymer manual. Also on hers looking at the points plate the plate is labeled 1/4 on the left and 2/3 on the right, with the corresponding points operating those cylinders. Not trying to nit pick just trying to clear the fog that blew in whilst reading your post????? Safe riding, Bill
I'm curious, why did you install points? What was wrong with the CDI? :?:
Hey Bill
On the point gap: Usually, the books will say something like:
rotate the crankshaft until the points open to their widest gap.
At that position, reset the point gap to .012 to .014. If you look for the timing marks at this point, you will see that you are not on them. Setting gap at this point to .012 to .014 will result in them starting to open at aproximately the timing mark. To my way of thinking, the important thing is when the points break/open, not what the gap size is. It just so happens that the lobe of the crankshaft is about .012 to .014 raised above the contour of a perfect circle, so that works just fine. I just feel that setting the point gap directly is easier and more accurate. If set my way, and done accurately, the greatest error has to be less than .001
I know you have base plate rotation to compensate for small errors, but I find with my method, I rarely have to even make any small compensation as the timing comes out on the marks dead on with the first try.
As for 1/4 right and 2/3 left, youre probably right. My bike is opposite. Or, maybe its just my wiring colors that are reversed.
Its been long enough since I timed mine that I would have to go look at it to be sure if its exactly as remembered.
Earl
On the point gap: Usually, the books will say something like:
rotate the crankshaft until the points open to their widest gap.
At that position, reset the point gap to .012 to .014. If you look for the timing marks at this point, you will see that you are not on them. Setting gap at this point to .012 to .014 will result in them starting to open at aproximately the timing mark. To my way of thinking, the important thing is when the points break/open, not what the gap size is. It just so happens that the lobe of the crankshaft is about .012 to .014 raised above the contour of a perfect circle, so that works just fine. I just feel that setting the point gap directly is easier and more accurate. If set my way, and done accurately, the greatest error has to be less than .001
I know you have base plate rotation to compensate for small errors, but I find with my method, I rarely have to even make any small compensation as the timing comes out on the marks dead on with the first try.
As for 1/4 right and 2/3 left, youre probably right. My bike is opposite. Or, maybe its just my wiring colors that are reversed.
Its been long enough since I timed mine that I would have to go look at it to be sure if its exactly as remembered.
Earl
Bill + Karen said:
Hey Bill
an add on:
With my method, I am not setting the points gap. (meaning I do not set the opening) I am setting the point at which the points start to open directly. (which is the important thing) With the "book" method, you're setting one thing (the gap) and hoping it results in another thing being correct (the points breaking on the marks).
Earl
an add on:
With my method, I am not setting the points gap. (meaning I do not set the opening) I am setting the point at which the points start to open directly. (which is the important thing) With the "book" method, you're setting one thing (the gap) and hoping it results in another thing being correct (the points breaking on the marks).
Earl
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Bill + Karen
Guest
Oh, in the famous words of Gilda Radnor "nevermind" your setting them just as they are opening, duh, sorry I missed that. 
I'll have to give that a try next time. 
Thanks, Safe Riding, Bill
I'll have to give that a try next time. Thanks, Safe Riding, Bill
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Anonymous
Guest
mcycle-nut,
I'm changing to points because my CDI was toast and I couldn't find a used one for a decent price. There was also the constant risk of buying electrical parts with no warranty, so I opted for a cheap, used set of points and condensers. I may go to a Dyna S in a couple of years.
Craig
I'm changing to points because my CDI was toast and I couldn't find a used one for a decent price. There was also the constant risk of buying electrical parts with no warranty, so I opted for a cheap, used set of points and condensers. I may go to a Dyna S in a couple of years.
Craig
