Tips on getting carbs back on bike?

[fuelcat]

Ok so I have taken on and off the carbs on my gs550l about 4 times now and every time I struggle to get the intake boots from the air box to the carbs. the middle ones are hard to on all the way. I have the bolts taken off the air box and I use wd-40 on the boots and I wiggle and jiggle and push and pull to try and get them fully on. It takes me over an hour. I figure there must be a tip or trick to getting them on?

 

[BigD_83]

I don't know how the fit from airbox to air distributor to boots works on the 550, but there are a few pieces of advice I have based on my experience:

1. silicone lube makes the job much easier

2. Old hard, dry boots makes this the devil's playground

3. On my 650, I don't even bother unbolting the airbox from the frame, but I undo every clamp between the air filter housing and the carb bank. Then, there is enough room to slide the carbs in, and pull them BACK into the airbox boots. Once I get them in the boots, I clamp them down, and pull the entire contraption FORWARD to set the carbs in the intake boots. Get those setup, and I finally tighten down the clamp that holds the airfilter housing and the airbox (air distributor) together. That clamp can be tightened down before pulling the carbs forward if there is a problem with the filter housing and airbox separating.

Takes me about 15 minutes to get everything back together.

 

[fuelcat]

I don't know how the fit from airbox to air distributor to boots works on the 550, but there are a few pieces of advice I have based on my experience:

1. silicone lube makes the job much easier

2. Old hard, dry boots makes this the devil's playground

3. On my 650, I don't even bother unbolting the airbox from the frame, but I undo every clamp between the air filter housing and the carb bank. Then, there is enough room to slide the carbs in, and pull them BACK into the airbox boots. Once I get them in the boots, I clamp them down, and pull the entire contraption FORWARD to set the carbs in the intake boots. Get those setup, and I finally tighten down the clamp that holds the airfilter housing and the airbox (air distributor) together. That clamp can be tightened down before pulling the carbs forward if there is a problem with the filter housing and airbox separating.

Takes me about 15 minutes to get everything back together.

Thank you I will try you suggestions

 

[lmrmllr89]

I used ratchet straps one time. One around the top of the carbs around the front of the engine and then one around the bottom of the carbs and around the front again. Then crank evenly and they pop in.

 

[TheBigRed]

I have the bolts taken off the air box

I don't know about the L for sure, but on my 550T in addition to the bolts on the top of the airbox, there is also one on the side, above the starter solenoid and fuses. Taking that out gets a bit more space (I'd say almost 3/4 to 1 inch on my T).

See if you have one there to that might give you more space. After I found that one I've gotten to where I can have the carbs out, change jets and back in, in under an hour.

Amos

 

[Steve]

After I found that one I've gotten to where I can have the carbs out, change jets and back in, in under an hour.

And if you had an 850, that same job would take you about 20 minutes.

No, really. You can just about stand back and throw the carbs into place.

.

 

[fuelcat]

And if you had an 850, that same job would take you about 20 minutes.

No, really. You can just about stand back and throw the carbs into place.

.

LOL! Funny

 

[fuelcat]

I don't know about the L for sure, but on my 550T in addition to the bolts on the top of the airbox, there is also one on the side, above the starter solenoid and fuses. Taking that out gets a bit more space (I'd say almost 3/4 to 1 inch on my T).

See if you have one there to that might give you more space. After I found that one I've gotten to where I can have the carbs out, change jets and back in, in under an hour.

Amos

Ill check on that. Thanks!

 

[fuelcat]

wow you guys are great! 15-20 min! now thats what I would like to happen for me! I have bruises all down my forearms! So I set the carbs into the air box side first? I have been putting them into the engine side first

 

[Steve]

LOL! Funny

Funny, but darn near TRUE.

wow you guys are great! 15-20 min! now thats what I would like to happen for me!

You will have to change bikes for that to happen. Those little bikes just don't have a lot of "wiggle" room.

.

 

[Dreef1999]

At least on mine it seems to give me a little more room if I pop the fender out and push it towards the rear wheel. I hate dealing with the box and carbs on the 550. That simple hatred alone is quite the argument for pods...

 

[fuelcat]

At least on mine it seems to give me a little more room if I pop the fender out and push it towards the rear wheel. I hate dealing with the box and carbs on the 550. That simple hatred alone is quite the argument for pods...

I started considering The pods because of the pain in the ass factor of getting the carbs on and off. yet again I have to take the carbs back off because I f%$#ed up on the timing and have to do that all over again. I can't get the tensioner off with out taking the carbs off..pooo! Thanks to advise I got on this thread I am able to get them back on in an half hour rather than an hour with less bruises on my arms. I found that lube and getting them into the air box boots first, clamp them down then work them into the engine side by pushing in from the air box. I took all the screws that hold the air box off first. I even used a rubber hammer to tap on the carb bracket until they popped into the boots but very carefully.

 

[bomber737]

Go to your next fair and get one of those square wood yard sticks they give out and use it to pry against the back side of the carbs and the cross member on the frame. The cross member right by where the tank is held down. Works great for me and I never damage or mar anything. Also a little silicone grease on the intake manifolds lets the carbs slip in easier, aids in sealing them, and takes heat very well.

 

[Steve]

I started considering The pods because of the pain in the ass factor of getting the carbs on and off.

Well, if you go with pods, get used to taking the carbs off several MORE times.

Yep, there will be a few sessions of fine-tuning the jetting.

Or, you could simply spend about $100 for new boots and make the experience almost pleasant.

.

 

[fuelcat]

Go to your next fair and get one of those square wood yard sticks they give out and use it to pry against the back side of the carbs and the cross member on the frame. The cross member right by where the tank is held down. Works great for me and I never damage or mar anything. Also a little silicone grease on the intake manifolds lets the carbs slip in easier, aids in sealing them, and takes heat very well.

That sounds good!

 

[salty_monk]

Warm the boots up with a hairdryer until they are almost too hot to hold for more than a few seconds by hand... mount the carbs up quick & they will slide right in.

I also use silicon lube but I think anything that doesn't harm rubber would work including KY!

 

[fuelcat]

Warm the boots up with a hairdryer until they are almost too hot to hold for more than a few seconds by hand... mount the carbs up quick & they will slide right in.

I also use silicon lube but I think anything that doesn't harm rubber would work including KY!

That is a great tip! thanks

 

[7981GS]

On a stubborn set with new manifolds...

Eric

 

[Reaper0001]

that one way to do it but i would prefer to just take it slide it between the frame and block and shove it on with my hands
one side at a time left and right rock it on

 

[Badooka]

K Y- where is this thread headin'???!