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Too much vacume for manometer

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmlcolorado
  • Start date Start date
J

jmlcolorado

Guest
So i got a carb sync tool today.

Set it up on cylinder three to calibrate it.

After calibration i attached one hose to each carb port, fired it up and cylinder three shoots straight to the top!!!

It doesnt make any since to me, i cant adjust that cylinder so vacume is what it is....right ... any thoughts????

I have "suction reducer" things in the tubes that change the large diameter hose to a small orfice hole to reduce the vacume to begin with.

I really need to sync these things.


BTW, i have pods...... please dont tell me this is the reason.

thanks guys
 
Hi,

What tool did you get? The Morgan Carb Tune? Those don't need calibration. Just hook up all four cylinders and balance.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Its a motion pro SyncPRO tool.


Got it from my local suzuki dealer.

Uses a glocol fluid.



Hi,

What tool did you get? The Morgan Carb Tune? Those don't need calibration. Just hook up all four cylinders and balance.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Sounds like you might have to remove the carbs and do a bench sync before proceeding.

Evidently, 1,2 &4 are all open a bit farther and the bike is running on them. Because #3 is closed down further, it has more restriction, and that is what is generating the higher vacuum. A bench sync will let you visually set the throttle blades to approximately the same opening, then you can fine-tune it with the "sticks".

.
 
Right on steve, ill give that a try. I had em bench synced before and they were darn close.


Yet another, you come to the rescue. Ill post with my results.


Thanks a bunch.




Sounds like you might have to remove the carbs and do a bench sync before proceeding.

Evidently, 1,2 &4 are all open a bit farther and the bike is running on them. Because #3 is closed down further, it has more restriction, and that is what is generating the higher vacuum. A bench sync will let you visually set the throttle blades to approximately the same opening, then you can fine-tune it with the "sticks".

.
 
Well i pulled the carbs off. Checked bench sync and WOW IT WAS WAY OFF!!!

Turns out i didnt reinstall the lower bar that ties the carbs together so anytime i movedd the carbs, it screwed up the sync BAD.


So i reinstalled it, and bench synced and back on the bike. World of difference in the idle, and everything else. Hooked up the sunc tool and same problem.

When i turn the idle up to about 4000 rpm the level drops, but as i lower the idle, the level raises.


The only place where i can get the level to a usable point the motor is screaming!!!! Too much for confort.
 
When i turn the idle up to about 4000 rpm the level drops, but as i lower the idle, the level raises.

The only place where i can get the level to a usable point the motor is screaming!!!! Too much for confort.

Most of the time when you do a vacuum sync the idle should be around 1500-1800 rpms. You either want the level in the tubes to be the same or 1,4 slightly higher than 2,3. If you are using mercury stick, running at 4k rpms will probably suck the mercury into the engine.

Check to make sure your carbs are assembled properly since you said you forgot to install the lower bar that ties the carbs together, maybe you forgot something else. Make sure the choke and idle adjustment mechanism are working.
 
The EPA will find out about it and will come take your engine and fine you for doing something yourself.
 
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