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tool question

  • Thread starter Thread starter bigmike1980
  • Start date Start date
B

bigmike1980

Guest
does anyone know where to get the piston ring compression tool and about how much they cost? or a different way to put the pistons in?
 
I used an appropriately-size hose clamp on the outers, then just squeezed the others with my fingers. Some can do it just with the fingers. Oh, and you'll really have an easier time with another set of hands...
 
The biggest aid I found was the two pieces of wood that were suggested in the Haynes manual. Shaped like a lobster claw, sized to fit around the connecting rod and hold the pistons above the crankcase. Start with them under the inner pistons, slide the cylinders down to the rings. Squeeze the rings with your fingers, the bottoms of the cylinder liners are tapered to help get the rings in. When the inner pistons are in the cylinders, pull the lobster claws, rotate the crank. You may or may not be able to fit them under the outer pistons, but there should not be any problem getting the outer pistons in their cylinders.

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teet said:
I've not had to compress the rings on my GS yet, but Ive rebuilt many, many Kohler, and Onan Engines over the years, and I picked up a Craftsman ring compressor tool from sears..not too expensive. Ive rebuilt a few without the tool just fine, but it really went a lot smoother with the tool.....

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...d=piston+ring+compressor#specificationsAnchor


Jeff (teet)
Click to expand...

I think you might find with that ring compressor tool that you cannot remove it from the conrod once the piston is in the cylinder. These type seem to be made for working on car motors where the piston is inserted from the top of the cylinders or block. I could be wrong, I have been before. But the compressor that I have for my Cleveland motor will not work on motor cycle engines.
 
Last edited:
Suzuki_Don said:
I think you might find with that ring compressor tool that you cannot remove it from the conrod once the piston is in the cylinder. These type seem to be made for working on car motors where the piston is inserted from the top of the cylinders or block. I could be wrong, I have been before. But the compressor that I have for my Cleveland motor will not work on motor cycle engines.
Click to expand...


I stand corrected Don! I didn't think of that. I wonder if it would be just as easy to compress it with your fingers, I had to do that years ago while rebuilding my CR250...now that was only a single though.

Thanks for the correction....would hate to see him go out and buy a tool he didn't need.


Jeff (teet)
 
Steve's suggestion for making those rod holders is a good idea (Steve, do you have a photos to show?). If you can hold the pistons and cylinder straight, it's fairly easy to compress the rings with your fingers and stick them inside the cylinder. Having a helper to do this work helps a great deal. Worst thing is to force things since you can easily damage a ring.
 
Nessism said:
(Steve, do you have a photos to show?)
Click to expand...
Sorry, no. :oops:

I think I saw the diagram in the Haynes manual. Basically, it's a piece of 1x3 or 1x4 trimmed to fit between the cylinder studs. Cut a notch in one end that is wide enough for the rod and deep enough that the board can slide under the pistons and hold up both skirts with no problem. The board also needs to be short enough that you can pull it out the back side when the pistons are in the cylinders.

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OK, so I remembered incorrectly. :oops:

It's in the Clymer manual for GS850-1100 shaft drive, on page 72.

Pistonholder.jpg


Mine are just a bit bigger. 2 3/4" wide, 9" long, 3/4" thick. The slot is 1" wide and 4 1/2" deep.

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I have all of those piston ring compressors and the hose band clamps and fingers, worked a whole lot better. ;)

Eric
 
thanks for the diagram I was able to make them from your description and followed the advice of using hose clamps WORKED LIKE A CHARM had my 10 year old son help hold the boards and it all just slipped right together.
THANK YOU now on to the next step where is the best place to get the tools needed for valve adjustments before I button it all up.
 
For such a simple tool, why not make one? A quick release hose clamp and a piece of 16 or 18 ga brass (I like the brass due to it low fraction coefficient) And youre money. You can even find the clamps that adjust a bit for fine tuning its size. And they run less than $15 each.

212297_300.jpg
 
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