N
Normk
Guest
Here's something for your New Years gift list:
1/4" ratcheting box end wrench. I prefer a "Gear Wrench" type because they have a small swing range and low drag when broken in.
I use my 1/4" ratchet wrenches frequently to drive 1/4" screwdriver bits in tight quarters. Put a #2 Phillips bit into the end and it will slip into a very tight place, and with some wedging pressure will break loose or tighten very tough screws.
When I had the tool business, I sold hundreds of this size which can be a bit difficult to find as it does not come in most sets. They are available separately as KD Gear Wrench. Technicians used to grind down Torx bits to absolute minimum length and apply a bit of silicone gasket material to the bit and wrench to retain the bit. This set-up was perfect for changing on GM diesel module without major disassembly.
Another small item to add to that list is a tin of valve lapping/valve grinding compound. I prefer grease mix but water mix is almost equally useful for helping to remove tough screws. Dip the end of the screwdriver into the grinding compound and then use the screwdriver. People are litterally open mouthed over how effective this is in driving a partially stripped Phillips. It works along the lines of scattering sand on an icy sidewalk or road. The very hard grinding compound's particles dig into the screwdriver and screw to allow drive.
The grinding compound works equally well on rounded flare nuts (brake & fuel lines), bolt heads, etc.
I recall a body shop doing a restoration of an early 1960's Mustang. They had tried an impact driver and other means to remove the large Phillips head striker plate screws on the doors with no success. I went out to my truck, grabbed a bottle of "Screw Grip", onto Phillips bit in impact (hammer) driver and done!
1/4" ratcheting box end wrench. I prefer a "Gear Wrench" type because they have a small swing range and low drag when broken in.
I use my 1/4" ratchet wrenches frequently to drive 1/4" screwdriver bits in tight quarters. Put a #2 Phillips bit into the end and it will slip into a very tight place, and with some wedging pressure will break loose or tighten very tough screws.
When I had the tool business, I sold hundreds of this size which can be a bit difficult to find as it does not come in most sets. They are available separately as KD Gear Wrench. Technicians used to grind down Torx bits to absolute minimum length and apply a bit of silicone gasket material to the bit and wrench to retain the bit. This set-up was perfect for changing on GM diesel module without major disassembly.
Another small item to add to that list is a tin of valve lapping/valve grinding compound. I prefer grease mix but water mix is almost equally useful for helping to remove tough screws. Dip the end of the screwdriver into the grinding compound and then use the screwdriver. People are litterally open mouthed over how effective this is in driving a partially stripped Phillips. It works along the lines of scattering sand on an icy sidewalk or road. The very hard grinding compound's particles dig into the screwdriver and screw to allow drive.
The grinding compound works equally well on rounded flare nuts (brake & fuel lines), bolt heads, etc.
I recall a body shop doing a restoration of an early 1960's Mustang. They had tried an impact driver and other means to remove the large Phillips head striker plate screws on the doors with no success. I went out to my truck, grabbed a bottle of "Screw Grip", onto Phillips bit in impact (hammer) driver and done!
