• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Total Electrical Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
My 81 GS1000GL is slowly coming back from the dead. She's currently a basket case as I get the frame cleaned up and various components rebuilt. The end result will hopefulyl resemble some sort of cafe build.

While I'm miles away from starting the electrical work, I am trying to plan ahead and figure out what the setup should look like. The preexisting system is headed wholesale into the trash bin. The wiring harness was spaghetti (PO soldered in 5 foot lengths of wire to multiple circuits with no discernable purpose and slashed off every connector), and the bulk of the system is unusable due to either decay or physical damage. Kind of a pain, but also an excuse to do it up right.

The question I have for the group is, given that I already have to replace the CDI, R/R, coils, starter relay, battery, wiring, etc., what, if any, components are worth upgrading when I go to redo the electrical system? I'd like to simplify/hide the electrical in a tray under the seat and likely tuck the battery up under the tail cowl.

Both of my past builds have been Hondas, and I'm still learning the unique quirks of the GS. Any input would be greatly appreciated. And apologies if this has been answered previously. I tried my search skills, but they may not be up to the task.
 
Top of my head you have an opportunity to
Fit a series R/R , SH775 ( genuine) is the herd pick
A modern blade type fusebox
Relay(s) for the headlight and horn
Solid state two pin turn signal flasher
LED tail and idiot lights
 
Brendan W said:
Top of my head you have an opportunity to
Fit a series R/R , SH775 ( genuine) is the herd pick
A modern blade type fusebox
Relay(s) for the headlight and horn
Solid state two pin turn signal flasher
LED tail and idiot lights
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for the input!
 
salty_monk said:
Fit a Dyna DS3. It doesn't have a separate box so it'll save you some room when you tuck it all away. The Moto gadget stuff is meant to be good (but $$$).

I would upgrade to a PC-8 or something similar if I was starting from scratch... https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you right, the Dyna DS3 would do away with the CDI?

ANd that PC-8 looks pretty slick. I've looked at the Moto gadget stuff, but you're right, good but definitely not cheap!
 
Yep exactly :) The CDI's have been known to go bad and the Dyna's are pretty damn reliable. You may find a "concourse" buyer for your existing one on Ebay / Facebook...
 
salty_monk said:
Yep exactly :) The CDI's have been known to go bad and the Dyna's are pretty damn reliable. You may find a "concourse" buyer for your existing one on Ebay / Facebook...
Click to expand...

I like it. Thanks for the info! Though you should be aware that when my wife asks why I've spent a couple hundred more on parts for a side project that was supposed to be cheap, I'm absolutely going to blame you. Thanks for taking the fall for me.
 
DevilsAdvoduck said:
Thanks for taking the fall for me.
Click to expand...

That salty_monk guy gets the blame for lots of things... :D

It's cheaper than a tow home ;)

Oh and if you're looking to save space... the Anti gravity batteries are very well thought of (not necessarily here but in other circles). No affiliation. :) I think there is a Winter discount code, you'll probably find it on ADVrider forum.
 
Last edited:
May I strongly suggest:


  1. That you make a wiring diagram? https://draw.io or visio
  2. Label the wires per said diagram: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Wire-Marker-Booklets-10-Pack-44-102/100118882
  3. For any connections which you don't anticipate disconnecting for service reasons, I suggest using harbor fright's "marine butt connectors" (lol), they are traditional crimps, but lined with hot glue so that they not only stress relieve the crimp within, but also prevent any water/fluid reaching the crimp.
  4. Use waterproof (e.g. weatherpak or their Asian knockoff) connectors. Kit'll run you $13
  5. Use a dab of silicone/dielectric grease on any terminals or spade connectors which cannot be adequately shielded (e.g. the starter solenoid spade terminals, etc) to prevent oxidation

I'm sure you know at least a few, if not all of these. Perhaps it's helpful though. You'll be quite a bit happier down the line if/when you need to change or fix something. :untroubled:
 
free99 said:
May I strongly suggest:


  1. That you make a wiring diagram? https://draw.io or visio
  2. Label the wires per said diagram: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Wire-Marker-Booklets-10-Pack-44-102/100118882
  3. For any connections which you don't anticipate disconnecting for service reasons, I suggest using harbor fright's "marine butt connectors" (lol), they are traditional crimps, but lined with hot glue so that they not only stress relieve the crimp within, but also prevent any water/fluid reaching the crimp.
  4. Use waterproof (e.g. weatherpak or their Asian knockoff) connectors. Kit'll run you $13
  5. Use a dab of silicone/dielectric grease on any terminals or spade connectors which cannot be adequately shielded (e.g. the starter solenoid spade terminals, etc) to prevent oxidation

I'm sure you know at least a few, if not all of these. Perhaps it's helpful though. You'll be quite a bit happier down the line if/when you need to change or fix something. :untroubled:
Click to expand...


appreciate all the tips! Hadn’t considered looking for wire labels and I’ll definitely look into the marine butt connectors. Thanks!
 
I converted a 1000L harness to work in a 1000S, which is totally different. It wasn't difficult once you get over your fear. Remove the harness wrap (which, BTW, is NOT electrical tape) and then start tracing each signal path. It helps if you have a large table to stretch out the harness on. Reason for mentioning this is to encourage you to take on the harness rebuild. It's not difficult as long as you are willing to use a wiring diagram and take an ohm meter and trace circuits.
 
How about splicing in a tight space,under ground vault,a couple of thousand pair cables, that's 2000 26ga wires and you're working two pair from the interagency 911 system.Don't slip with that knife.
 
red1100 said:
How about splicing in a tight space,under ground vault,a couple of thousand pair cables, that's 2000 26ga wires and you're working two pair from the interagency 911 system.Don't slip with that knife.
Click to expand...

I’m afraid my skills are better compared to Karl slicing though conduit with a chainsaw at Nakatomi Plaza.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dandypop
GS850G Won't Start, Electrical Issue, No Spark
2 3
Replies
54
Views
859
dandypop
dandypop
S
SH775 wire harness guidance
Replies
5
Views
218
bren
bren
miked
82 GS1100G "patina mod"
2
Replies
24
Views
448
Rob S.
Rob S.
X
Won’t rev past 7000 rpm
2
Replies
24
Views
340
dgates1
dgates1
K
M-unit and Lithio Battery
Replies
7
Views
185
Who Dat?
W
Back
Top