Total loss ignition

[gs11ezrydr]

I was wanting to remove the charging system off of an engine.Total loss Ign. I know I will have to power the coils and the dyna S Ignition.I was planing on removing the stator itself and the regulator.Leave the flywheel and starter drive..Battery power only..Any faults with it... All and any advice would be appreciated.I thinking about installing a 82 GS 1100 in an ATV. Dirt Drags ..

 

[zuluwiz]

Why?

You'll find it takes longer to recharge the battery than to discharge it by riding. In other words, you'll be spending more time charging than riding.

 

[Nessism]

Can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. I've never seen ATV drag racing. Got any video's?

 

[Tom R]

Most aftermarket kill switches have teeny wires in them... you’ll probably want to run a relay to get power to the coils.

 

[Steve]

I know that drag racing is all about acceleration, and that is achieved with more power or less weight. However, leaving off the stator and regulator is what, about a pound? Is it <that> critical?

Other than that, yeah, it's possible. :encouragement:

.

 

[limeex2]

The stator and rotor weigh well over a pound. Std GS1100 rotor is 5.2 lbs and a Kat rotor weighs 4.65. It's also weight off of the crankshaft that the motor does not have to turn. Rev's quicker? Its why Kat rotor's are lighter. On a fully charged battery with a total loss system (stator and rotor still installed but dead/burnt out) I did a track day of aprox 60 minutes and could still electric start the bike after 60 minutes of riding with no lights.

 

[GregT]

Yes, it's doable - and an 8 amp/hr battery will see you do a days racing easily.
But think about starting. On our GS1000 racebike I split the hub out of the rotor - and screwed the starter clutch to the back in the usual place.
The screw ends were TIG'd in place to avoid any problems with it coming loose.

I set it up with a plug for leads to an external battery - for the first start of the day. Once hot, no probs.
We used a combination starter switch/kill switch with a relay to the coils.

 

[storm 64]

Just keep a couple of batteries on the trickle charger during the week and you'll be fine. Yes, post videos of this machine!

 

[Big T]

You might want to have a car battery on a cart with a quick connect for starting. Start up is where most the battery power goes

 

[wymple]

My oldest son rode a 650 Yamaha chopper we built with total loss. It was a 73 title so full time lighting was not required. Kick start only. He took day trips on it as much as 60 miles each way with a medium sized battery. It was low when he got home most always.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Why?

You'll find it takes longer to recharge the battery than to discharge it by riding. In other words, you'll be spending more time charging than riding.

Consider It only has to run 200ft..And if it goes rounds there will be a back up battery,ready to install.I think if I monitor the voltages for a while I might find a charging pattern..

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. I've never seen ATV drag racing. Got any video's?

Yep even Top Fuel.in-line 4's and TF Harley motors.. Several categories,Stock,SS/Modified,Unlimited.. Search on You Tube and enjoy..ATV dirt drags should do it lol.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Most aftermarket kill switches have teeny wires in them... you?ll probably want to run a relay to get power to the coils. View attachment 61875

Thank You. Exactly...Except separate starting and running systems.Minimal wires,3 switches Starting,Running,Fuel pump..

 

[gs11ezrydr]

You might want to have a car battery on a cart with a quick connect for starting. Start up is where most the battery power goes

Thanks....Good thinking..

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Just keep a couple of batteries on the trickle charger during the week and you'll be fine. Yes, post videos of this machine!

Be nice,if things go right,I will..I have about 35 ATV frames to pick from...From a friend that wants to do it.Thinking of a 3 wheeler, GS front section and an ATV chain driven solid axle rear section.

 

[zuluwiz]

I understand that you want to save weight, but the 1100e engine makes so much power 5 pounds won't be noticable. If you really want to cut weight, find a way to get rid of the battery. That would be worth 25-30 pounds.

 

[Steve]

Wow. It has been quite a while since I have seen this much MIS-information in one thread. :-k

I like to deal as much as possible in facts, so I grabbed a digital scale and went to the shop.

Let's start with the (edited) original post, which outlines the objective:

I was wanting to remove the charging system off of an engine. ... I was planning on removing the stator itself and the regulator. Leave the flywheel and starter drive.

OK, the first guess is mine, so we'll settle that one first.

I know that drag racing is all about acceleration, and that is achieved with more power or less weight. However, leaving off the stator and regulator is what, about a pound? Is it <that> critical?

The weight of a GS850 stator (and its wiring) is 1 pound, 9.3 ounces.
The weight of a GS1100 stator (and its wiring) is 1 pound, 14.3 ounces.
I could not quickly find a stock regulator. Few would argue that an SH775 regulator weighs more.
An SH775 regulator weighs 1 pound, 1.7 ounces.
The total weight of a GS1100 stator and an SH775 regulator is 3 pounds.

The stator and rotor weigh well over a pound. Std GS1100 rotor is 5.2 lbs and a Kat rotor weighs 4.65.

Probably quite true and accurate, but re-read the original statement, he is leaving the rotor in place and only removing the stator.

If you really want to cut weight, find a way to get rid of the battery. That would be worth 25-30 pounds.

The first part of that isn't so bad. For the short durations that it will be used, a lithium pack will weigh next to nothing, but the second part is absurd. The weight of a stock 12v 14Ah battery is 8 pounds, 2.7 ounces.

Bottom line: He asked about the practicality of going total loss by ditching the stator and regulator. Yes, that's entirely possible. The fact that he will only lose three pounds in the process leads to questioning the practicality of the project. That may have led to the suggestion of losing another 8 pounds by replacing the battery. OK, maybe only 7 pounds, because a lithium battery does weigh something.

I asked the question earlier: "Is it <that> critical?" I'll ask it again, but this time, we know that we are discussing just 10 pounds.

.

 

[limeex2]

Thank you for the correction. I've been away for awhile and got a little excited that I may even have a good tip. I seen a post from Rapid Ray too. Good to hear from him.

 

[GregT]

If it was me - and I have experience roadracing several makes of big fours both with and without the rotor - I'd hedge my bets.

I'd do a rotor hub with the starter clutch attatched - the lightest possible crank end with a starter fitted.
But i'd also try a full rotor before deciding which setup to use in which conditions.

On normal tarmac/bitumen/blacktop I'd say ditch the rotor every time for what the OP wants to do.
But on dirt - and possibly varying conditions - I'd wonder if a little more crank weight might be useful.

It's the old suck it and see again.

And Steve - it's racing. No amount of effort is too much.

 

[Steve]

I've been away for awhile and got a little excited that I may even have a good tip.

No worries. For those who might be changing a rotor to save a bit a weight, it's a GREAT tip, as long as the rotor fits the end of the crank.

And Steve - it's racing. No amount of effort is too much.

Yeah, although I have not done anything more than the occasional street race, I know that the pros will sweat over thousandths of a second. Especially if the 'reward' is more than just bragging rights. :encouragement:

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