Trasmission/Cluth questions

[chidlebaugh]

I have a 81 GS850GL. I have owned it for about 3 months now. I replaced the oil and oil filter about 2 months ago along with the brake fluid.

Here is my issue. Once my bike gets warned up and I am at a long stop light with multiple cars already behind me, my transmission gets "stuck" if I shift into neutral. I won't be able to shift into 1st or 2nd. If I rev the engine or rock it a bit I can get it shifted into 2nd, but it takes some work. Once it second, I can no longer shift into neutral until i pull away from the stop and then it shifts completely fine again. Also when down shifting into first one the bike is warmed up i will often here a little "clunk" sound as if it was a harder down shift.

Whats weird is when moving I have no issues other than the occasional clunk going into first. It shift completely fine. Also if I just stay in first gear I have no issues at all.

Thanks guys!

 

[Guest]

Either a clutch cable adjustment or in need of a new cable.

 

[chidlebaugh]

Either a clutch cable adjustment or in need of a new cable.

I am assuming if I call my local Suzuki dealer, I should be able to order a new clutch cable? Or should I be ordering from somewhere else?

Thanks

 

[Guest]

Try mrcycles

Good prices and fast shipping.

 

[BentRod]

as a note
A nature of the gearing is that in some positions, some gears wont mesh. Depending of the position of first gear, there will be times when you cannot get it into first from neutral with out spinning it first.

 

[chidlebaugh]

Ok so I am on mrcycles.com website. But I am having a hard time figuring out what part number I need for my new clutch cable.

When I select "1981 Suzuki GS850GL" and then select "handlebar-front flnder" and look at the picture, they have two clutch cables shown and also two part numbers with different prices,
(1) CABLE, CLUTCH 58200-45300
and
(2) CABLE, CLUTCH 58200-45140

When I looked in the owners manual and actually at my bike, I only see one clutch cable (which is what I expect to see).

So how do I know which one to order? Or what the difference is between the two for that matter?

Thanks again!

 

[jpaul]

Don't know what the difference is between the two, but when I go the the parts fiche on the Alpha sports site, they only show the second part number listed, even though both cables show in the picture.

http://www.alpha-sports.com/choose_the_year_suzuki_you_have.htm

 

[chidlebaugh]

Called the local Suzuki dealer and was able to order an OEM clutch cable for 15.03 including tax and shipping. Should be in by Friday.

I'll let you guys know how this goes.

Also, I don't have any literature on how to replace the clutch cable. Any have any links or instructions they could post?

Thanks!

Chris

 

[Smokinapankake]

Take a good look at the routing of your existing cable. Pull the tank if you need to. Typically, they go under the tank and down between the #1 and 2 intake boots (counting from left to right), crosses over the top of the gearbox, and connects to the clutch actuating arm. Look at your bike and it will become crystal clear. Make sure there are no kinks as that will prematurely wear your new cable, thereby requiring replacement again.
Good luck.

 

[chidlebaugh]

The clutch cable came in super fast! I picked it up and installed it yesterday. After proper adjustment I will still have the same issue as before. I took the bike over to my local "mom and pop" (or at least as mom and pop as you can get in NOVA (Northern VA)... and I was told that my clutch adjustment was good, and my clutch was showing initial signs of wear.
The mechanic just recommended that I live with it until it gets to annoying and then come in and have the clutch replaced. He quoted me around $300 for that type of service.

I have two questions....
1) Is $300 a reasonably price to have my clutch replaced? It didn't sound too bad to me, but I wasn't sure.
2) Is their any possibility that I will do further damage to by bike besides the clutch by waiting to have this done?

Thanks again!

Oh side note... While I was their, I picked up 4 ngk plugs and replaced my really old plugs before I left the park lot of the Crossroads Cycles right outside Arlington. I can definitely notice a difference after that.

 

[hampshirehog]

If your clutch is getting worn you should in theory find it easier to disengage gear for a shift. Does the clutch disengage when the lever is half pulled in, slightly pulled in or only when fully pulled in? If it's only when fully pulled in it's probably an adjustment issue.
The other thing to try is, when you are stopped and the gears won't go in, roll the bike forward or backward slightly as you press on the gear lever (normal change pressure with your foot). If this solves it it's a gear meshing problem - probably not worth worrying about as it's pretty common. I've had bikes that have done this almost from new and lasted for ever.

And $150 for a clutch change? That's only ?75 over this side of the pond. I couldn't get a mechanic to tell me the time for that!

Wally

 

[chidlebaugh]

If your clutch is getting worn you should in theory find it easier to disengage gear for a shift. Does the clutch disengage when the lever is half pulled in, slightly pulled in or only when fully pulled in? If it's only when fully pulled in it's probably an adjustment issue.
The other thing to try is, when you are stopped and the gears won't go in, roll the bike forward or backward slightly as you press on the gear lever (normal change pressure with your foot). If this solves it it's a gear meshing problem - probably not worth worrying about as it's pretty common. I've had bikes that have done this almost from new and lasted for ever.

And $150 for a clutch change? That's only ?75 over this side of the pond. I couldn't get a mechanic to tell me the time for that!

Wally

Wally it was actually 300 USD for a clutch change... not sure what that translates into for you.

The bike only shifts with the clutch level pulled all the way.... I tried the rolling the bike back when its stuck and that seemed to help. I wonder if its a combination of the two?....

 

[hampshirehog]

Doh! I halved $300 and halved it again! (We're 2 to 1 on exchange at the moment which means Mr Bush is running the US economy even worse that our Mr Brown). Still if $300 includes parts it still seems cheap compared with rip off Britain - my mate had a BSA A65 clutch rebuild under warranty and the bill was $1200! (A65 clutches are way simpler and easier than Japanese bikes too - I could have done it including parts for about $100).

Anyway - back to your problem. If your lever has to pull all the way in before disengaging I reckon you might have an adjustment problem. You should still have say an inch (lever to bar measurement)to pull in and the bike shouldn't creep forward. Check your clutch cable free play by pulling in the lever slowly. you should be able to move it say up to quarter of an inch (lever to lever perch measurement) before it has any effect on the clutch arm. If you've got more than this try winding the adjuster screw out a bit and testing.

If you go for a clutch rebuild it's a pretty straightforward job you could do yourself in an hour or so and even a cheap manual usually gives enough info to do it properly.

Wally

 

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Mr. chidlebaugh,

First of all let me say, let it be known that on this day you are hereby cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Please note that you can improve you standing with pictures! (Not you, your bike!) :-D

You mentioned that you've changed your crankcase oil. How about your bezel gear oil? The transmission uses 90wt gear oil in a separate case from the crankcase oil. The fill plug for the transmission is on the left side of your bike. Its the 19mm bolt next to "Use Hypoid Gear Oil SAE 90". See below:

Fill it up until it touches the little tough at the bottom of the fill hole. Maybe you can see it here:

Unfortunately, the drain plug is under the case cover on that side directly below the fill plug. You probably need an impact driver to get those phillips head bolts out, unless they've already been replaced with hex head bolts.

If you've got no gear oil or very old oil in your gear box it could lead to shifting difficulties.

If you need a manual for your bike, just click on the "BikeCliff Website" link in my sig and you can download one from there. Thanks for joining us. Let us know how you fare.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

 

[BassCliff]

Hello again,

Just a couple of quick pages from the manual regarding clutch adjustment:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[chidlebaugh]

You mentioned that you've changed your crankcase oil. How about your bezel gear oil? The transmission uses 90wt gear oil in a separate case from the crankcase oil. The fill plug for the transmission is on the left side of your bike. Its the 19mm bolt next to "Use Hypoid Gear Oil SAE 90". See below:


Fill it up until it touches the little tough at the bottom of the fill hole. Maybe you can see it here:

Unfortunately, the drain plug is under the case cover on that side directly below the fill plug. You probably need an impact driver to get those phillips head bolts out, unless they've already been replaced with hex head bolts.

If you've got no gear oil or very old oil in your gear box it could lead to shifting difficulties.

Thanks BassCliff,

I will definitely check the gear oil. Actually I will probably change it just to be on the safe side, not really knowing the history of this bike.

Side Bar Question:
Since I got the bike about 2-3 months ago, I have
(1) changed oil and filter
(2) flushed brake fluid
(3) replaced spark plugs
(4) cleaned air filter

Anything else I should do, besides the gear oil as recommended above? The valves look like they were done recently since the valve gasket looks relatively new.

 

[BassCliff]

850 Tlc

850 Tlc

Mr. chidlebraugh,

While you're at it, go ahead and change the rear differential oil. It uses the same 90wt gear oil as the trans. And seal up the airbox (unless you have pods) with new weatherstripping around both side covers and on the top of the air filter cage. These bikes really don't like air leaks anywhere in the intake system. That includes the carburetor boots (on both sides) and intake O-rings. It's also S.O.P. to go completely through the wiring harness, clean all the connectors and the grounds in the electrical system. Take the ground from your regulator/rectifier and connect it directly to the negative terminal of your battery. Hmmm, what am I forgetting? Forgive me if these tasks have been mentioned before.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff