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Turn signal controller

  • Thread starter Thread starter JimmyR
  • Start date Start date
J

JimmyR

Guest
Hi GS guys

I recently bought an '82 GS1100G and I'm trying to make it beautiful again. The wiring loom is a mess and while I'm tidying it up - also adding a Dyna ignition, better stator and RR, I want to simplify a few things. My question is, how do I get rid of the signal control box? I don't need all the bells and whistles I just want to turn my indicators on and off when I want. Can I use just the relay to do this?

Part of the reason for the question is that I'm using a new speedo which isn't stock. It would seem through studying the schematic that the turn signal unit needs input from the speedo which I won't be able to provide with my new speedo. So if I can just simplify things altogether I will be happy! Has anyone done this? How do you wire it?

Thanks guys! BTW I tried searching for this but couldn't work out how to word it!
 
It's relatively easy to do.
I did it on a GS 1000 EC but it should be the same on your bike.
The indicators have a live wire that's Black on one side and Light green for the other.
The live wires go on eitheir side of the turn signal indicator but also respectively to the Black wire and the Green wire coming out of the left handle switch.
Next you take the Light blue wire coming out of the left handle switch and you connect it to the turn signal relay.
The other wire on the turn signal relay goes to the +12V through a fuse.
You don't need to rewire everything but if you follow these wires you will be able to determine what you keep and what you need to add.
Hope it works for you?
 
John Kat said:
It's relatively easy to do.
I did it on a GS 1000 EC but it should be the same on your bike.
The indicators have a live wire that's Black on one side and Light green for the other.
The live wires go on eitheir side of the turn signal indicator but also respectively to the Black wire and the Green wire coming out of the left handle switch.
Next you take the Light blue wire coming out of the left handle switch and you connect it to the turn signal relay.
The other wire on the turn signal relay goes to the +12V through a fuse.
You don't need to rewire everything but if you follow these wires you will be able to determine what you keep and what you need to add.
Hope it works for you?
Click to expand...


None of this is necessary on an 1100G. The 1978 & 1979 GS1000 used a different TSCU, so the wiring changes are necessary for that model, but not for the 2nd generation system which was adopted by Suzuki for the 1980 model year. To disable the auto-cancel turn signals simply remove the TSCU. Done. Signals will work fine, but won't turn off until you move the hand switch.
 
hmmm

hmmm

i just purchased a 79 gs1000, turn signals not working, and speedo has been changed, also not working, will be goin back to a stock when i9 find one. so this rewire, ccan i make the turn signals work till i get a speedo
 
The speedo on a 79 GS1000E (alloy wheels) will have nothing to do with the turn signals working. The only thing that won't work correctly if it's not hooked up, is the unit will not self cancel.

A 79 GS1000 (base model~wire wheels) doesn't have or use a TSCU. It's system is completely different than the 'E' model.
 
ok

ok

well, it has the mag wheels, if that makes a difference, and i believe it does have a tscu, also, someone posted a schematic, hand drawn, about the signals, was that a way to wire them around the tscu so as not to have to purchase another
 
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rodman101 said:
also, someone posted a schematic, hand drawn, about the signals, was that a way to wire them around the tscu so as not to have to purchase another
Click to expand...
That would be myself... and it was done as a temporary solution to the problem.

I know wallowgreen has made a working ?P TSCU controller, robertbarr is trying to make a replacement out of a pic and then there is my approach to the problem I'm presently working on -> http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1607824&postcount=18
 
sounds complicated, but am handy with electrical, lol, im going to dig into the bike a little further tonight to ensure im getting power to the switch, and go from there

and on another note, could care less if they auto cancel or not
 
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I took my switch apart yesterday, cleaned, brightened contacts and greased it with dielectric grease. It started working reliably again (with the self cancel wires disconnected in the headlight). There are three springs in there, a little contact slide, a pressure washer for the lever and two small screws. It's a real simple switch, but the parts are easy to loose, better to take it apart in a clear plastic bag.
 
Spring pushed BB against a detent. Have some photos but don't have access right now. You might want to check the archives as there are some photos there (not mine).
 
That makes sense, mine had no detent you had to slide it to the off position without the detent....

Out to look at it again.
 
If you are speaking of 1980-up controllers; contact Highway_Glider. I'm 'sure' he has a working spare he might be willing to part with.
 
850 combat,
i have one pre 80 controller left(pretty sure) and several 80 and later left.
did you get one from me before?
 
Mine's ready now, electrically. I still need to address physical aspects like strain relief. It's tucked away in a nice little project box, and is way too big for what it does, but it's finished and it works as designed. I'll be wiring it into the GS1000 in the next week or two for actual street testing (Oooh, oooh! Such excitement!). The biggest headache? Strain relief. Connecting the nice fat OEM harness pigtail to those tiny little header leads from my perfboard.

The IC's are socketed (so I can reprogram either PIC as needed to tweak its operation) so it's about twice as thick as it needs to be. Subsequent units can be shrunk substantially.

Mine at present is pretty highly tailored to what I plan to do, which is to swap in a pre-80 bar control into a 1981 GS1000 and have it self-cancel, as well as other shenanigans, without butchering the OEM wiring harness. The bar control won't plug in, obviously; instead, it'll be connected with Posi-Locks. The signals themselves will be connected the same way -- existing wiring + Posi-locks. This will automatically power the little bulbs in the instrument panel without getting in there.

The front signals will be fed with new wires so they can function as running lights -- nice bright LED arrays + a marker light for each side -- and they'll blink off, rather than on, at the same time that the rears do the opposite.

To answer a few other posts: I've never intended this as a replacement for an original TCU, but I've kept enough notes & diagrams that it could be adapted pretty easily for the pre-1980 setups.

I don't see much problem involved in designing a much simpler unit that would do what a lot of folks are asking for -- just blink. Just work. Inexpensive, no self-cancel, no extensive harness mods. A simple 08M2 and a pair of relays would do that and deal with the momentary nature of the bar switch. In other words: Push the control to the left, release, and the LH blinks until the rider presses the Cancel downward. Same with the RH side, obviously. A small subset of my unit would do that nicely.

That's what winter is all about.
 
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