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two different gs550es questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hooptie
  • Start date Start date
I wasn't trying to razz you either. Just wanted to make the point that sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and do the things that need to be done with any bike that's new to you.

Just curious as to what you mean when you say "the choke wont catch"?
 
You can throw all the choke in the world at it and it acts the same. Full choke will work sometimes, but you still have to man the right grip to keep it grumbling.
 
clean yer carbs or run some carb cleaner through it via a fuel additive.

My bike has often been hard to start if very hot on a hot day.
Sniff your crankcase to smell for gas.
 
Are you sure it's needs choke? What I'm asking is, is it not starting because of too little or too much fuel? Have you check your plugs when it's not starting? Wet? Dry?
 
Well, i replaced the fuel line and it fired right up. I rode it around and got it nice and hot, parked it and shut it off. It fired right up again. We'll see in the morning if it still feels like being fixed.
 
Mine when hot on a hot day seems almost as if it is evaporating all the gas from the float bowls and setting to prime does nothing to help this either.
 
Well, there was literally no fuel making it past the 3rd filter on the old set up. With the new clear sae line on it, i could clearly see fuel making its way into the carbs.
 
Tank pick up, petcock and an added 3rd inline filter.

The 3rd inline and been....unadded.
 
I'm in that camp now as well. We'll see if its still fixed in the morning.
 
Fired up much easier, especially considering it was 5:40am and I was trying to be sneaky.

Rode great, no stumbles. I stopped for gas and it fired right back up. I did notice yesterday that the throttle cable is a bit stretched, is it adjusted at the nut set at the end of the cable housing?

Sorry for the new bike guy questions. My last bike was shaft drive hydraulic everything. Too bad it was an electrical basketcase! RIP Nighthawk.
 
Another issue. Two actually.

1. After running to work, lunch, to my wifes office, back to mine, home, then run around for about 30 minutes with zero issue...... I shut it off as i had done all day and it started leaking gas from the left carb while on the side stand. It was enough to leave a 1' spot on the ground. I moved it around and it always stops.

2. What are the symptoms of a dying bike starter? Works fine all the time except when its hot, has been running at highway speeds and gets shut off. Are they prone to heat soak? After it sits for about 10 minutes it works fine.

Bad contacts? Dirty contacts? Shot winding? I'm a moron?
 
Never had a starter go in 70k plus kms
Dunno what it would be like as mine still cranks like a mother ****er.

Carb leakage is best addressed when you replace all internal orings vis cycleorings.com
Leakage may be through the petcock diaphraghm

All sorts of gremlins that need to be addressed by going back to the egg.
Remove tank remove carbs
rebuild

you will only know things are done right when you do it yourself.

I never had a carb leak so all these perverse problems folks have are a bit lost on me.
 
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It only seems to leak when the bike is off, and then its only for a short period. I put it on prime and all hell broke loose obviously. But at that point i was just trying to figure out whee the leak was. Thankfully the tank is basically full....
 
All hell broke loose when the bike was on prime?
The needle valves are supposed to stop and gas passing them regardless of prime being on or not.

If gas is passing them then sure it will leak but also go into the crank.

Smell your oil. Taks a finger and unashamedly insert you finger into the filler hole then pull it out and take a whiff. If its as wonky acting as you say I would suspect gas may be getting into the crankcase.
 
Having dealt with car carbs, how difficult are mikunis? I hear these siamese ones are even more odd. I might try and rebuild the ones i have as spares. Anyone have a good tutorial on doing them correctly on a bench?
 
The carbs are the same as any other
the only unique thing is two sets of carbs in one narrower package

they used the same design on KZ1300s but with much larger carbs.

They are the same as any carb but for the twinning.

Another newbie on here has taken some pics and may be working on a tutorial for the BSW30s cannot recall his name though.
 
I have in front of me an original 1983 Suzuki gs500e/s/f service manual. Needle valves appear to be buried in a deep dark crevice somewhere between the Hoth system and Narnia. I think i know what i'm cleaning off the work bench for tomorrow....

Sharts.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Smell your oil. Taks a finger and unashamedly insert you finger into the filler hole then pull it out and take a whiff. If its as wonky acting as you say I would suspect gas may be getting into the crankcase.
Click to expand...


I did get a chance to finger my bike last night. Oil smelled fine to me, just like hot engine oil. I'll try again today with it being cold. I'm hoping this is the first instance of it doing this as I've never noticed a stain under the bike before.

I may try running a little sea foam through it unless thats not recommended on bikes. I feel like maybe some crud I wasn't able to clean out by flushing with new fuel might be making it through.

I did pop the outboard left spark plug when the carb was leaking to make sure it wasn't filling with gas as well. I looked in with a flash light and stuck an air chuck in it to make 100% sure and it was dry as a bone. Didn't even smell gassy.

Sorry for all the long rambles. I feel like an idiot. I've been around 2000hp twin turbo V8 drag cars, big block muscle cars, lifted trucks and small displacement turbo cars my whole life and for some reason, bike carbs are like reading braille with mittens on to me.
 
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