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Two Part Paint Question +

  • Thread starter Thread starter stiksave
  • Start date Start date
S

stiksave

Guest
I'm doing a repaint of my 83 GS 1100E. I'm using Martin Senour 2 part, color/clear, paint. How long do you wait between applying the basecoat, until you apply the clear? Basecoat is completed today, 6/2/08.
Also, where is the best place to buy the stock decal set? It would be for the red 83 GS 1100E model.

Thanks,
Stiksave
 
stiksave said:
I'm doing a repaint of my 83 GS 1100E. I'm using Martin Senour 2 part, color/clear, paint. How long do you wait between applying the basecoat, until you apply the clear? Basecoat is completed today, 6/2/08.
Also, where is the best place to buy the stock decal set? It would be for the red 83 GS 1100E model.

Thanks,
Stiksave
Click to expand...

If you are allowing it to air dry, wait 24 hrs.

You can get decals here:

http://www.reproductiondecals.com/default_frameset.html?content.html~main
 
Gs1100ED Red

Gs1100ED Red

Reproduction decals dont currently carry the 83 GS1100ED, they only have the GS1100EZ in red. It is close, they are making me a first run of decals which has a clear border where the red shows through instead of having red color in the decal. I also requested the black tail decal.

They should be done this week you should ask about a set for your self.

Posplayr
 
5-10 mins flash time for the base coat then followed by the clear in a production environment.
24 hours will be fine, but I think you will have to re-base it after 36 hours. then put the decals on and clear it. (or mid coat clear, decals, clear)
you could shoot 2-3 coats of clear, order your decals, sand the clear and apply the decals and shoot 2-3 coats again. read the paint product sheet it will say.
 
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What Rusty said about reading the product sheet for the paint. PPG basecoat requires recoat after 24 hours.
 
Thanks for the input. I talked to the paint manager at my NAPA store. You can wait up to a week to apply the clear to the basecoat. As far as the second set of clearcoats, you have to have at least a week of cure time, otherwise it will wrinkle.

Thanks again,
stiksave
 
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stiksave said:
Thanks for the input. I talked to the paint manager at my NAPA store. You can wait up to a week to apply the clear to the basecoat. As far as the second set of clearcoats, you have to have at least a week of cure time, otherwise it will wrinkle.

Thanks again,
stiksave
Click to expand...
No offense to the "paint manager" , but that doesn't quite sound right. You can download usage sheets for any type of automotive paint online. Most, but not all, are closer to the timeframes mentioned here already. As for wrinkling, that sounds way out of bounds. These paints cure by way of chemical reaction and uv light contact, not evaporation, as in rattle cans.
 
Shops paint cars, bikes and furniture (etc etc) in a matter of hours not days.
 
The times I posted here were recomendations for a backyard mechanic doing a paint job,not a production, collision shop. The window for doing the clearcoat was longer than 24 hours. Since I don't have the decals in hand, he recomended waiting at least a week for the second set of clearcoat over the decals. He started talking about catalysts and chemical reactions and if I were doing the job. So that's what I relaid here. I did the clearcoat within 24 hours of the basecoat. I need to blocksand a few runs out.
I know that there are always discutions about painting on GSR, that's why I brought it up here. It's not a rattle can job. The Two part,basecoat/clearcoat is new to me. That's why I had questions. Go to my photobucket to see what before was like. The clear on that paint job cracked after 2 years, that's why the update. PS. I have about $85.00 US in the materials,(paint stuff).

Thanks,
Stiksave
 
$85 sounds about right. I recently got a quart of dupont clear, a half pint of hardener and a gallon of medium reducer wholesale thru the car dealer where I work and it cost me 57 bucks wholesale.
 
stiksave said:
The times I posted here were recomendations for a backyard mechanic doing a paint job,not a production, collision shop.
Click to expand...
The mfg's recommended times pertain to all who use the product, not just a backyard painter (like I am).
The chemical and mechanical bonds are what determine the time, product compatibility and sanding methods.

when you wet sand don't use your fingers, get a rubber pad (not block) to back up the paper.

backyard painter with an astro evo 4014...
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/PICT2219.jpg
 
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The $85 covered, one quart primer w/hardner, one quart of basecoat, one quart of clearcoat w/hardner, and a quart of reducer. Add $14.00 for a gallon of laquer thinner for clean-up. All the NAPA Martin Senour Cross/Fire line. I used my work discount.
Being an old fart doesn't make me smart, asking questions does. My GS was the first motorcycle resurection I'd ever done. Couldn't have done it without this board, and e-bay.

FYI,
Stiksave
 
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posplayr said:
Reproduction decals dont currently carry the 83 GS1100ED, they only have the GS1100EZ in red. It is close, they are making me a first run of decals which has a clear border where the red shows through instead of having red color in the decal. I also requested the black tail decal.

They should be done this week you should ask about a set for your self.

Posplayr
Click to expand...

Have You seen this bike? http://www.ronh.org/suz1100e_83.htm

Stiksave
 
The reason for the recommended wait before clearing the decals is to allow the base clear time for the solvents to dry out. If not, when you apply the top coat(s) of clear, the trapped solvents can very easily cause the vinyl decals to wrinkle rather badly. I'd suggest waiting 5 days before applying the decals as escaping solvents can become trapped and cause bubbling under the vinyl. I'd also suggest a light mist coat of clear over the decals prior to burying them. This will give the clear a chance to "bite" the vinyl and reduce the risk of a run. And if you do not want to see the edge line that will show, after 2 good coats of clear, wait at least 24 hours, wet sand the tank with 1000 grit till the edge line is removed, then shoot 2 more coats of clear. The decals will look as though they are under a mile of clear and when one looks, the tank will be as smooth as glass because the edge lines are gone!
 
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Ok I have some questions,
I repainted my wifes GS with DUPLI-COLOR (spray bomb). I used their primer, base, and clear. I prepped the parts then sprayed the primer. I let it dry between coats. I then wet sanded with 320 grit. I reprepped it for base. I sprayed the base (3 coats) and the clear (3 coats) I allowed it to tack between coats. I let it dry almost 2 full day. I then wet sanded with 2000 grit, buffed with 3M med. and light compound. I then polished and waxed. It looked great.\\:D/

(pictures before) but it got gas on the tank on our ride this weekend and it took the paint off down to the old finish!!!!Why would gas take the paint off after a week of drying. I have contacted dupli-color about this but they have not responded yet.



3089169_6_full.jpg











3089169_11_full.jpg

3089169_7_full.jpg
 
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Duplicolor is not a gas resistant paint. It would'nt make any difference if you let it dry a year. A drop of gas would still instantly eat right through it..

Earl


[quote=buttonhook
Why would gas take the paint off after a week of drying. I have contacted dupli-color about this but they have not responded yet.
 
earlfor said:
Duplicolor is not a gas resistant paint. It would'nt make any difference if you let it dry a year. A drop of gas would still instantly eat right through it..

Earl


buttonhook Why would gas take the paint off after a week of drying. I have contacted dupli-color about this but they have not responded yet.[/QUOTE said:
Well that is information I could have used yesterday!! I can't believe that they are marketing this stuff as OEM replacement for spot fixes and it peels off with gas and they don't give any warnings.

What if I painted it with the dupli-color and then had it it cleared with a gas resistant clear??
And what would be a gas/chemical resistant clear (I need and spray can please)
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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